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bravo 3 oil leak

comm1comm1 Member Posts: 5 ✭✭
in Rinker Express Cruisers Forum
Need advice,
Has any one experienced oil leaking out of the input shaft on a bravo3, and going into the bellows, about a teaspoon of drive oil

thanks in advance
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    Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Any oil seal can leak. Once they start leaking it only gets worse. If you are lucky it is just a bad seal. If the shaft is worn it needs repair/replace. CR makes shaft repair sleeves to fit some applications but you might spend more fixing than replacing. Al makes a great point, have it serviced by a merc tech, too much to go wrong without the tools and knowledge.

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,559 mod
    Had the same thing happen last year on my B-2.   Had the seals, o-rings, bearings, u-joints, bellows, shift cables & whatever else needed on both drives while it was apart and hi-n-dry.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,559 mod
    RY, if you are asking me, it was ~$4k.  I just mentally added to the price of my boat, since I knew when I bought it I would like to start out fresh.  My drives push a lot of weight.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Looking at both drives is smart while out of the water.  When I toasted my BIII, I figured the other one can't be far behind and I was right, it was not toast, but on it's way, would have cost me an extra haulout and weeks of the season on top of the cost.

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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    TikiHut2TikiHut2 Member Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2013
    BD, I know the B3 is known for being a tough drive but what caused yours to fail at such a close time frame and what were the running hours, enviroment and the symptoms?

    I just pulled my 9y/o drive with 240hrs a few weeks ago and put in a new gimbel bearing which seemed to be making a VERY slight noise. The bellows looked fine at only 3y/o and everything came apart and went back together well so it's one less thing to fret over I guess. The bearing really seemed fine but it's said that the drive should be pulled every couple years anyway so for $140 and a little sweat, out it went.

    The seal that Al is referring to is probably the one in the 2nd pic with the teal colored ring. Pulling the drive and even the bearing could be considered an intermediate project but that seal isn't a DIY project.

    Pics of gimbel ring, u-joint, and borrowed drive stand/lift :D

    image

    image

    image
    Post edited by TikiHut2 on
    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
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    Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Tiki, my port drive started using a little oil, not a lot and infact had just done a 6+ hour trip on them. I pulled out for the season a week or so later and it looked like the Exxon Valdez as soon as I went into gear, you could see the inner prop had been running into the case and the shafts moved almost .5" axially.  I have no idea how it even worked.  Whole lower unit was shredded which took out the upper half too.  This was at ~250 hours..so I was not a happy camper.  the second drive was right behind it with shavings in it too.  Both reservoirs and lines were crudded up with chips too - I made a fixture to flush them out :)

    Never had a prop strike that I know of at least.  I think it was a combo of two things: being over propped (24 vs 22P) worked the crap out of them and then I think I was being screwed on my annual drive maintenance service and highly suspect the oil was not being changed.  I had to replace a coupler the year before that, whch means no way anyone was checking the alignment or was incompetent.  Cost me over $7k but I got a 2 year warranty from the drive guys, moved to full synthetic lube and had some internal upgrades at the same time.  I added on drive showers too, but I think they are a waste of money (as I noted on other discussions) as they foul up and do nothing in the end.  All fresh water use too.

    I wish I had a buddy with that jack, I've taken mine off with a friend, but you really need that jack to reinstall.

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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    TikiHut2TikiHut2 Member Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Everything I've heard is that theses drives are tough as nails but every dog has his day. Like I'd said I have a VERY slight (almost just paranoia) noise when ours is running on the muffs in our shop that I can't quite let go of even though I changed the gimbel bearing, checked that upper seal and the prop shaft seals. My Merc mech friend said I'm being too critical and the oil is as clean as a whistle so "steady as she goes" I guess.
    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
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    Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Awesome! 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,239 ✭✭✭✭✭
    wow, not for the weak at heart pulling that lower end off...I've pulled by Bravo II and changed the impeller but looks like I'll have to move over to the Clearwater area when I get my Rinker!
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    Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It actually comes off easier than you think, just a heavy, off center-weighted bugger so either 2 people or that fancy jack.  Putting it back on without the jack would be a bear, but it can be done.  Take the props off first and save yourself 30-40# too. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,239 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I was reading through this post and see I was running my mouth here before I even bought my boat as I commented above...I have been watching my level and up to now it was slight over the last year season but now, it's leaking worse. I really never had been able to find anywhere it was leaking, even was checking the hoses from the reservoir back as I could not figure it out-until today. It is leaking out of the prop area, not super bad but it is there. Drive has 200 hours on it now, had 100 a little over a year ago (2005 boat). There was a little "wet" spot on the drive and a film from the prop..I guess I need to trim it down as now that I think about it, at an angle that area would have to fill up before it could lead out, yuk. What am I looking at here guys? I was supposed to go on vacation for a week the end of the month.....
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,239 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks Al.....I have handled everything on my own as far as maintenance type stuff, this would be above my pay grade. I have someone to take it to that can hopefully do a good job for us. What would a shop normally charge, assuming there are no other issues....
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,239 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Well that is not to bad for sure if that is all that it is. After thinking a bit about this, is this something that happens with seals or more likely from a strike and the shaft is bent? I wish you were closer Al, I have read many of your posts and it sounds like you know your stuff!
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,239 ✭✭✭✭✭
    to know- is it possible the outer seal is bad from like fishing line and the inner seals are good? Is that outer seal pretty easy to replace? I have someone coming to look at it tomorrow who is going to pull the props as I don't have the tools to do that. He will also do a pressure test on it as well to see where we are at. I really don't want to risk putting it back in the water and risk more damage and costs.
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    MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,962 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2015
    Outer seal is a quick and inexpensive job. 

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,239 ✭✭✭✭✭
    we will see....It looks like after the residue got washed off in a storm, there is little left to show the leak so it's not pouring out- hopefully something is just up there aggravating the seal and will be an easy fix- that would be the first time however!
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,239 ✭✭✭✭✭
    ok- my buddy came by, we pulled the props off. We could not find anything that looks like anything got up in there, but, there were a couple of spots that were nicked up. It was for sure leaking from that shaft seal. So, we are going to try and replace that one seal and see what happens- not much cost in that if it solves the issue so will know in a few days. With 200 hours, hard to imagine anything is worn..we will see! I was surprised to see we could work the shaft a little- could not put a run out gauge to it but could get a little wiggle out of the main shaft, problem or normal? 
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,239 ✭✭✭✭✭
    and can that seal be replaced with out removing the carrier assembly?
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