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Painting Outdrive, how to??

Hey Guys, I was thinking of doing some touch up painting of my outdrive (Volvo Penta DP) and was wondering a few things!   I have done some car body work and touch up painting but was looking for advice on what type of paint (spray can from dealer or something else) and other steps involved for an under water application like this. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Here is a couple of pictures of my outdrive, maybe its beyond touch up and I should just pull it and get in professionally done!
Opinions? 
Thanks!!

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    BruceBruce Member Posts: 167 ✭✭
    I painted ours last year, it looked very similar to yours before we started. The pictures below show how it looks today. 
     I was pretty overwhelmed when I started reading about the "right way" to paint an outdrive, and I'm sure if it was to be used in saltwater, doing it the "right way" is probably the only way. That being said, ours is a freshwater only boat so I cut some corners. I sanded the outdrive first with an air powered DA, then filled the pits with JB Quick (JB Weld) sanded it again with the DA, then primed it with 3 coats Zincrom Primer ( rattle can) from NAPA Auto Parts stores, wet sanded that with 400 grit paper, then topped it with 3 coats of automotive acrylic enamel w/hardner (General Motors silver, color code 14) by Dupont Centari. shot through a HVLP gun. We have less than $100.00 in materials.
     Again, this is not the recommend way to do it, and we have only had it out one season so far, so only time will tell how it does in the long run.
     I hope some of this helps, and good luck.
    2004 250 FV 
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    habit68habit68 Member Posts: 111 ✭✭
    Nice job Bruce, thanks for all the info, much appreciated!
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    habit68habit68 Member Posts: 111 ✭✭
    How long did you wait between primer coats and then top coat?

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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,625 mod
    Automotive finishes will help protect against corrosion, but not marine fouling.  If the boat spends most of the season in the water, consider finishing with an anti-fouling paint such as Trilux.
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    BruceBruce Member Posts: 167 ✭✭
     I let the primer dry for 24 hours
    2004 250 FV 
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    Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Bruce, I have been painting skegs and touching-up drives for over 40 years - really nice work! LaRea makes a good point. IF and I say IF you think you are getting an unusual amount of marine growth on your drives and you may not (I don't think the Mercury Phantom Black that I have been using for decades has any antifouling in it) I think you can find a clear coat application that will have anti-fouling and anti-slime properties because that type are hard and slippery finishes that marine growth finds it hard to attach to. I do not know of any ablative drive finish. Again, really nice work - IMO a professional job! :-) MT
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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,594 mod
    Nice Job Bruce.  I agree with MT about using something with antifouling & yes, it only comes in a spray can.  MT, I use the same Mer Ph Black for touchup as well.  My boat stays on a lift, so no need for the antifouling.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    craigswardmtbcraigswardmtb Member Posts: 1,015 ✭✭✭
    The spray can stuff doesn't work all that well. You are better off using trilux with a brush and then using the spray can for hard to reach areas.
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    Robs_232Robs_232 Member Posts: 212 ✭✭✭

    I have been researching repainting my Bravo 3 over the winter and read this article on another forum. It sounds like surface prep is the key on painting aluminum. I have already got the surface prep chemicals from Aircraft Spruce, as well as I am going to use Primacon primer before painting and clear coating. We'll see how this works.

    http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=97217

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    rinker312rinker312 Member Posts: 255 ✭✭
    FYI. I completely stripped both my drives 2 years ago. Combination of sand blasting and scotch pads. I used the process described in the link above using alumni prep and alodine. Also used the paint from southern epoxy primer top coat and then clear. I am very happy with how it is holding up. For yearly touch up I clean any problem areas with scotch brine pad reapply alumni prep and alodine and then just use a spray can of appliance epoxy.

    2004 Rinker 312, 5.0 Merc's, Bravo III, Lake Wheeler, AL

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    BruceBruce Member Posts: 167 ✭✭
    Michael and Dream Inn, thank you for the nice comments. I looked and looked for a antifouling clear coat and could only find products made for wood. Since our boat doesn't spend extended periods of time in the water and then only fresh water, hopefully it will last a while. By the time I need to refinish it again, maybe someone here will point me to a specific product.  I have learned a heck of a lot from this site in the last year.
     Thanks again, Bruce
    2004 250 FV 
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    Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Bruce, If you are in fresh water and not spending a lot of overnight times in the water you will be fine. I always wax my drives with Meguiars Flagship carnuba wax (black container - about $20). I believe that it retards marine growth and makes cleaning what does adhere much easier. If my drives were recently painted I would make sure they had cured before waxing, then I'd do a test patch. I would NOT use a cleaner/polishing wax, just a straight carnuba wax. Again, great job! MT
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    BruceBruce Member Posts: 167 ✭✭
    MT thanks for the advice, I didn't know Meguiar's made that type of wax, just ordered a can of it for $19.83. You were spot on. I painted my outdrive last year so it is plenty "cured" by now,  I will get a coat of wax on it when it arrives
     Thanks!
    2004 250 FV 
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