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Trim Tabs on 2003 Captiva 212

imlovinitimlovinit Member Posts: 21 ✭✭
edited February 2014 in Rinker Sport Boat Forum
Anyone have any pictures of installed trim tabs on a 2003 captive 212.

looking into perhaps buying some.

any comments on how they help or hurt.

Any input would be sincerely appreciated.


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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have an '05 212... If you figure it out, I'd love to know, too.. It seems they can be mounted inside down low, but I don't know how much good they'll do there (inside the concave; i.e where the drive comes out)... they can't be mounted outside high because there really isn't a flat enough area with the mold of the stern..

    I'm sure I could use them when the boat is loaded down, but I can't figure out how, yet...
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    ^that was from a phone.. I'm at a 'puter now..

    Here is my solution, fwiw, to make this thing work.. but it will cost me at least what the tabs cost+...

    I want to make a mold matching the curvature of the hull on opposing sides, that allows the 'filler/blank' to present a surface to mount the tabs where they will most benefit the purpose, which to my understanding is nearing the lateral edges of the stern..

    problem #1: these blanks have to be substantial enough not to allow the added torsion/leverage to rip them off or bend too much, which creates-

    problem #2: you have to bolt in deep to attach them, which may be compromising the strength of the build right where it is pretty dang vulnerable...

    problem #3: what material do you use to create these mounts? rubber, like bushing material? Steel, like marine bracket material? encapsulated fiberglass w/ metal reinforcements at critical junctures?

    those three 'problems' have kept me from lifting a finger, because I'm not even quite sure if I need them for my purposes..

    I'd love to see what you come up with, though, if you pursue this. 
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    nhsdnhsd Member Posts: 182 ✭✭✭
    I have asked this question before (both here and on other sites), specifically related to smart tabs. The closest that I have come was finding a guy that bought the smart tabs for his 212, tried to figure a way to install them and could not do it. He eventually sold the boat and then sold the tabs. However, Alswag has posted that it can be done, so I guiess that there is hope. I just can't figure it out and I can't find anyone who has succeeded in doing so.

    Dave

    2002 Captiva 212, 5.0 220 hp, Alpha 1, 1.62 gears

    Moon Township, PA - boating in the Ohio River

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    JoeStangJoeStang Member Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭✭
    Even if the tabs were pretty close together wouldnt it be better than nothing? I would guess they wouldnt be as helpful balancing a side load, but for getting on plane I think it'd help quite a bit.

    Ive seen pictures of tabs right from the factory that are just on each side of the drive, so it really cant be harmful at all.
    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
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    imlovinitimlovinit Member Posts: 21 ✭✭
    Well i have having the problem of installing them. The Space in the concave is very tight. Bennett says you need 8 inches from the center of the boat on each side. It makes it real tight to fit.

    This is a picture of tabs on a 23 ft Rinker. the person who installed them says they work great. i just worry i won't get my bang for my buck. it doesn't look like they have 8 inches from the center.
    image


    I'm going to send some pictures to bennett to get their opinion on my boat.


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    wootdog72wootdog72 Member Posts: 16 ✭✭
    I have the smart tabs on my 212. I installed them a couple years ago. I will post a picture this week. I can say that the difference is night and day. To my surprise they took out almost all of the slow speed "prop" steer while lowering the plane speed tremendously.
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    wootdog72wootdog72 Member Posts: 16 ✭✭
    edited February 2014
    Here is a picture of mine. I'm sorry I can't get a better shot right now. I have the boat backed all the way against the wall. Pretty simple to put on and adjust. Hopefully this will give you an idea! Oh and disregard the black plastic being white. This was a result of my rookie mistake with acid washing!
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    nhsdnhsd Member Posts: 182 ✭✭✭
    edited February 2014

    That is great wootdog! As spring arrives and you pull that boat out, I am going to be hitting you up for more pictures (and maybe some measurements and settings)   

    BTW, what year is your boat?

    Thanks agan.

    ^:)^

    Dave

    2002 Captiva 212, 5.0 220 hp, Alpha 1, 1.62 gears

    Moon Township, PA - boating in the Ohio River

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    wootdog72wootdog72 Member Posts: 16 ✭✭
    It's an 01 with a 5.0 TBI. I should be pulling it out within the next few weeks to take it to the paint shop. I will say that I have the SX9510-80 tabs . I don't think the next size up would fit due to outdrive interference on sharp turns. I was skeptical on the plastic tabs over the stainless but they have held up extremely well.
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    MadcowMadcow Member Posts: 58 ✭✭✭

    I have a 2004 232 and put Lenco Tabs on w/LED Switch.

    the best investment I made to the boat along with the drive shower. You will not be disappointed.

    Boat: 2004 232 Capitva CC

    Boat Name: Mixed Nutz

    Location: Wintrop Harbor (Lake Michigan)

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    nhsdnhsd Member Posts: 182 ✭✭✭

    Wootdog72, have you gotten the boat out of the garage yet? Amazon has a decent price on those tabs and I am seriousl;y considering ordering them. I would like to get a couple more pictures if you have the time and maybe a measurement or two, like from the drain plug to the leading edge of the tabs or something to ensure that I get them where they won't interfere with the outdrive.

    Thanks

     

    Dave

    2002 Captiva 212, 5.0 220 hp, Alpha 1, 1.62 gears

    Moon Township, PA - boating in the Ohio River

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    wootdog72wootdog72 Member Posts: 16 ✭✭
    Hey sorry for leaving you hanging. Spring is here in Indiana and my to do list isn't getting shorter! I will get you the measurements and photos this weekend!
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    wootdog72wootdog72 Member Posts: 16 ✭✭
    Here is another pic. Basically you just want to move them out as far as you can. Get asclose as you can to where the transom begins to roll out. Make sure that where the tab bolts on and where the upper mount for the dampner bolts on is on the same "plane". Keep the level of the tab to the bottom of the boat the same. If you look closely you will notice I could have went out another inch on both sides. This was just a result of me wanting to slap them on and get to the lake. It took me and another set of eyes about thirty minutes to get them on. One thing I do every once in awhile is unhook one side only and it actually allows the boat to roll over and create an ok wake. I know this isn't what they or the boat was designed for but it sure is fun! Please let me know if you need measurments!
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You rascals have some explaining to do... To my wife... I ordered some smart tabs tonight, along with a drive shower and new hubs for the trailer.. I can't wait to see if there is significant improvement, not that its bad now... :-)
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    wootdog72wootdog72 Member Posts: 16 ✭✭
    Where did you get the drive shower? I have kicked the idea around but our lake are so small here in Indiana. The longest run I make is 10-15 mins at a time. I think you will be very pleased with the tabs. Be careful on the full stiff setting. It will pin the nose down at top end and the boat likes to follow waves rather than go over them!
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    http://www.driveshowers.com/ for the drive shower.. I haven't ordered it yet, going to this afternoon.. I got wrapped around the axle, almost literally the other eve attempting to figure out what hubs I had and which ones I needed... turns out the axle on my trailer isn't original (unless Rinker used Kodiak hubs, which is possible, but the ones I have are .2441 not .238)..

    anyway.. I am in salt water, and run as far as 25miles in a single leg and at or above 3500rpm the entire time, so... the drive may be a concern, and this thing (at link) seems to be the solution..

    the tabs won't be in until early next week according to the tracking, but they appear pretty easy to install... did you use 4200 or 5200 on the screws?  After having a discussion here once about 5200, I'm a little intimidated about using it..
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    wootdog72wootdog72 Member Posts: 16 ✭✭
    I used Permatex Aviation Hi Tack. I really like that stuff, it's cheap, easy to get and it has never given me a bit of problems. Plus you are only drilling a half inch in and won't drill all the way through the transom.
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    Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd use 4200 or sifaflex underwater caulk. the 5200 is amazing but will rip chunks of gelcoat and glass out if you try to remove it later. 5200 is really a permament solution. MT
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks fellers!! 4200 I already have, so that settles it.. :-)
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    Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,017 ✭✭✭✭✭
    3M 4000 is also rated for underwater use. I was told that 4000 is the best for underwater lights due to the fact that it can be removed if the lights go bad. I know the tabs are a different use, but could be the same style application.
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Got em in, got em on... Used 4200 because I already had some. Took about and hour and a half, which is to say ten minutes measuring, marking, and assembly, an hour of holding the drill aligned to the first hole before closing my eyes and pulling the trigger, ten minutes to drill the remaining holes, caulk, screw em in and brace them up...

    Turns out drilling holes in your hull is a traumatic experience...

    Will try em out tomorrow..
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    By the way, the outside of the brackets are 18" from centerline, and I used the sx80 tabs. Pictures tomorrow, after I'm done crying. :-)
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    Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    DA, I know how you feel!  You should have seen the tech and I when we drilled 4 INCH holes through the transom of my Rinker for through hulls. We measured those two spots 20 times and we were still shi**ing bricks when we fired-up the hole saw! :-) MT
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    Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 2014
    Just my 2 cents here. My friend used to work for 3M product development. The 4000 is a great caulking product. The 4200 is also fantastic BUT it has advanced UVA and UVB inhibitors that prevent yellowing and chalky breakdown. That is why he recommended I use it instead of 4000 any time the sun might shine on it (hart top caulking, through hull caulking, trim tabs etc.) I know much of this is personal opinion but that's my friend's "experienced" opinion. BTW I think everyone agrees that 3M 5200 is amazing - just don't use it where you want it removed easily. 3M also makes a product (I'll get the name that comes in a spray can, specifically to clean-up their specialty caulking before if fully cures. I used it after applying caulking to my hard top and did it ever clean off my hands, and areas on the gel coat. MT
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    So.... What setting is best? I'm on the middle one, and can't say I even noticed them... What I did notice was prop cavitation after crossing a passing boats wake.. that's never once happened before.. it hasn't happened because I had a whale tail hydrofoil on it that can't be on it whilst running the smart tabs.. Anyway, which setting worked best for you? Firmer or softer?
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    wootdog72wootdog72 Member Posts: 16 ✭✭
    I have mine set in the middle with a boat full of people. If it is just me and someone else I set it at full soft. I have set it at full stiff before and on sharp turns I will pull the prop out of the water. Do you have a pic of them installed?
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    nhsdnhsd Member Posts: 182 ✭✭✭

    Mine are ordered and awaiting delivery. Any and all installation suggestions, etc. welcome. I think I may need to visit the doctor for anti-anxiety meds to be able to drill holes in the back of my boat though.... :-t

    As Wootdog says, any pictures Drew?

    Dave

    2002 Captiva 212, 5.0 220 hp, Alpha 1, 1.62 gears

    Moon Township, PA - boating in the Ohio River

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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'll get y'all a picture.. I'm a little embarrassed about the condition of my outdrive.. :-) the guy who did bottom paint before I owned it saw fit to paint it as well... Grrrr. Anyway, I'm using the 80# tabs, and in the middle setting... The whale tail came off, and I think the difference may be that tail missing... Maybe its more effective than I would have given itcredit for... I'm going to go one position softer and see if I lose some drag.. I bet that will do it.
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    MadcowMadcow Member Posts: 58 ✭✭✭

    nhsd-

    I felt the same way about drilling the holes in the hull.

    Just measure a million time before you drill and it is fine.

    Me and my buddy did the Lenco install on my Captiva 232 and it is awesome.

    Trim tabs make all the difference in the world.

    Boat: 2004 232 Capitva CC

    Boat Name: Mixed Nutz

    Location: Wintrop Harbor (Lake Michigan)

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    MadcowMadcow Member Posts: 58 ✭✭✭
    I'm not a fan of the SmartTabs because you cannot load balance on the fly. You have to stop and get in the water to change them.

    Boat: 2004 232 Capitva CC

    Boat Name: Mixed Nutz

    Location: Wintrop Harbor (Lake Michigan)

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