Oil drain kit

mxracrmxracr Member Posts: 11
I have a 1996 Captiva 212 with the 5.7 engine. I'm thinking of adding one of those oil drain hoses that attach to the oil pan and then the hose will fit through the drain plug. I'm a newb, so bare with me. I have seen these on ebay for about $25. The issue that I have heard is that some wont fit through the hole in the transom. (defeats the purpose) Also, does the anyone know which size I should be looking at if it did fit through the hole after removing the plug. Thanks guys.

Comments

  • mxracrmxracr Member Posts: 11

    When I said drain plug, I mean the plug in the transom. Not the oil drain plug. It would be replaced by the hose, I presume.


  • JoeStangJoeStang Member Posts: 1,116 ✭✭✭✭
    Easiest way to find out is measure the ID of the drain plug and make sure the OD of the hose is smaller.

    Does your engine have the threaded fitting on the dipstick? If so you can suction out the oil from there instead of getting under the engine to loosen the oil drain plug.
    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My personal opinion, FWIW, is go to a metal fabrication supplier.. they usually sell pressure fittings, too.. have them fit a pressure hose long enough to reach through the transom and out the bilge drain, and mated to a plug you screw in and off.. the other side to a fitting that fits the crankcase.. drill a hole through the nut body of the drain plug that fits through the transom, and attach a small cable wire or use heavy fishing line to attach it to the drain plug..

    This allows two things.. you can let your plug dangle when you pull it, and not lose it, and you can fish the oil drain out by pulling the plug and hose, right through the bilge drain.
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My 350 MAG MPI has the oil drain tube as you mention Drew, with a SS loop of cable through the pipe plug at the end of the tube.  I use a bent coat hanger to fish it through the transom drain hole.  Although this year I bought a pump to hook up to the oil drain line :)

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • mxracrmxracr Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for the responses gents
  • Capt RonCapt Ron Member Posts: 217 ✭✭✭
    I find it difficult to know the proper oil level when changing oil on land. What I do is connect the oil pan hose to an extractor and do it in the water. Using the hose to extract oil is faster and more complete. I actually get all the oil out this way rather than using the dip stick approach.
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 2014

    Hey mxracr - If your drain hose doesn't have to go out the bilge drain hole (and in my opinion it doesn't). This may be a solution : Overton's 1-800-334-6541 sells oil drain hoses with 5 different fitting ends ($34.99) You have to know which hose fits your engine - I have two possible candidates below. You screw one end of the hose into the bottom drain port of your oil pan, run the rubber hose up the side of the engine and zip tie it in place. To use it you connect an extraction device of your choice. Oil change done in 5 minutes. Oil and filter in 10 minutes. I used to attach the hose to a 12 volt pump that was mounted in the engine bay.I'd just heat the engine to 165 degress, pump the oil into an old jug, change the oil filter, add oil and take the old oil to my local garage for disposal. Apart from warming up the engine the whole process took 10 minutes. I think the Overton's hose even has an end cap on it. PN for some 96 and older with standard Chevy 1/2 inch  x  #20 thread is 26163. PN for some 96 and newer Chevy "metric" engines  with 12mm x 1.75 thread size is 30334. Good Luck! MT   P.S. (I'm with Capt. Ron) - I always change my oil when the boat is in the water - better for warming it up and easier to get the oil level correct - in my poinion. P.P.S you can probably view the part on www.overtons.com - I'd suggest entering oil drain kits into the search box. I know they had them in their 2013 catalogue because my friend bought a couple of them.

     

    Post edited by Michael T on
  • mxracrmxracr Member Posts: 11
    Sounds great. Thanks MT as well as CR.
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,218 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I thought about doing this to my boat as the Tahoe I STILL own is that way but it actually has it's own hole through the transom. I think I will stick to the suck it through the top (have never done it yet) as I always worried about that hose failing and have a big problem/mess.
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Whatever you are most comfortable with is probably best for you. I have put permanent oil pan oil extraction hoses on every inboard boat  have owned (except the new 360) since 1994 and not one of them has failed yet. They are heavy duty and USCG and CCG rated for oil/gas exposure. MT
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,218 ✭✭✭✭✭
    New 360? What happened to the 270?
  • TikiHut2TikiHut2 Member Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 2014

    I'm a sucker for $35 upgrades that ease my maintenance time and this is a great one that anybody with a newer boat should do. Good grief, a simple USCG approved hose and drain plug fitting from the bottom of the pan routed up where I can get it in the engine compartment?! I'd agree with others who've said to forget about pulling it out of the drain hole. Route it up next to the filler hole somewhere easy so you can do all your business from one spot.

    The only thing that keeps me on the sideline is the flaking rust I found (and repainted) around the oil pan drain in my '04 270 last season (has everyone checked theirs?? I'm certainly glad i did). It's the low spot on a VERY thin oil pan where water and sweat/moisture drip off a cold engine when it's in storage or if you have a slight raw water leak while running. Stick a camera/cell phone under there and see what's up and hope you don't see this......

    image

    It'd be my luck to try and create a $35 shortcut and end up with a drain plug that's been installed where I can barely reach it for too long without relief and have the nut AND drain pan socket come off in my hand. Or even tweak it enough that it leaks. That'd mean an engine pull and new oil pan (with a new hose attachment). Yeah, yeah, I know. How could that happen to such a nice guy. :D

    I can pull the engine in my shop, which wouldn't be the end of the world but my 10y/o sea sled and I have a "do no harm" agreement with my wallet when it comes to pulling barely accessible bolt/nuts that I think are suspiciously close to their tolerance of my endless tinkering. When this engine comes out in the next season or two I'm all over this, along with a new oil pan and transom housing tiller pin and seal (and few dozen other boat unit chore$$). Something that I'm certainly dreading, although the Admiral thinks I love busting my knuckles and solving boat issues......otherwise known as "messin' about in my boat".....maybe she's right.

    This is a must do, fairly painless upgrade in my book. Thanks to the easy link from MT.
    Mike
    Post edited by TikiHut2 on
    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
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