AC will not generate heat, 250 FV

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Comments

  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited April 2014
    in my humble opinion, you did well to get a tech to look at it, and you're doing well to question their recommendation as well..... it seems the 'party' line here, as well, to replace all of it, even though you may not have to do so in order to make it function....

    as RY suggested, there is a dye used to locate leaks... it is injected into the systems and a UV light used to track it down... it isn't hard to do, and you can do it yourself without a lot of worry...

    the size of the leak is going to be your concern... if it is big, then you will have a hard time finding it, or better said- pin pointing it's location. 

    here is the major concern and the reason why you may need to consider a new system:  the tubing, condenser and collector on any system is filled with coolant, and that coolant is treated with oils specific to the coolant used- if they come into contact with water or o2, the coolant becomes an acid- and acid will do it's level best to eat everything it comes into contact with...... including the lines themselves.  all it takes is a leak, and the closed system of coolant is now compromised drawing in air and/or water, and it's not like it is a vacuum with the system compromised- so the question is "how extensive is the damage?"

    a leak most often occurs near the valve(s), either high side or low side... I highly recommend you get a simple schrader valve wrench, and tighten the valves up... also, there will be traces of the oil I spoke of earlier in and around that valve if it is the culprit... speaking of which, look closely for oil stains throughout the system as well..

    even a small leak, over time, can void the system.... I wouldn't be totally sold that it is a situation worthy of tossing that entire thing, and replacing it until at least the leak is found....


  • MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,976 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Honestly, I would fill it with refrigerant, for what about $60, and then see how long it lasts.  If anything, it will help you get by the next 4 to 6 weeks while you wait for a new aircon.

     

    My completely wild guess is you won't have to order one.  Anyone want to take a bet? LOL.

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,663 mod

    I'd say it'll leak out.  I've probably seen close to a handful (including one I had) that once they leak, they don't hold.  Cause that leak is caused by corrosion.

    Now, I'll say I got lucky 2 weeks ago when running my heat.  For some reason one of my units was not pumping water.  Weird? I say...because the pump is just "T"ed into two lines and it comes out either both or none.  Well, after much much playing around.  I blew (with my mouth - don't get any wise comments) on the output of the unit under the v-berth and finally forced out dirt.  Not a lot, but I guess enough to clog the condensor??  anyhow, it started working.  Guess it got by my strainer and clogged it.  Worked fine the weekend before.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If they've gotta toss the condenser as you suggest RY, then I'd second replacing the whole thing, especially if they were in the US.. but they don't have the laws affecting r12 or r22 there, which means its cheap and abundant..

    Here, get a new one that runs 412 or 3whatevertheheckitis... In a few years 22 or 12 will cost as much to replace as refill.. not there, though.. which is why I'd pinpoint the leak first.. it may simply be the valves need to be tightened. The only reason I studied up on HVAC is to service my own, and came away understanding more about it than I went into it thinking I would (not that I'm an expert).. turns out, the problem I had was a simple Schrader valve leak, which slowly depleted the system, ESPECIALLY, an idle system..
  • MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,976 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I'm thinking there's a possibility it isn't leaking through that heat exchanger.  All he looked for was oil residue.  You need to properly pressurize and determine if that is the case. Perhaps a fitting got loose due to expansion/contraction through the seasons. 

    Anyhow, my point is, like everyone else's above, try something cheap before buying a new unit. Unless you won the lottery ... that's a different story.

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    too funny!!!

    so- is r12 and r22 controlled there? I know it's not in much of Europe, except that it's supposed to be made in the states exclusively, and that the Feds have control of the volume that can be produced a year- and that the volume is deescalating until phased out completely in 2020...

    if the OP has the same limitations as we do to buy the r12 or 22, then the expense could approach what it costs to install a brand new system....

    I was quoted $75 a pound for r22 this last summer, and found 2 30# bottles for $300ea instead.. I bought them... I'm good for a long while. :-)  
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    there is a replacement (drop in) for r22 that isn't approved by the EPA yet, too.. it's being loosely called es22, or r409 I think? wanna know what it is? pharmaceutical grade propane... or, better said, natural gas with additives and oils... and it works just as good as r22.. freakin' propane... and people are using it...
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Ammonia make a great refrigerant too, less the issues when it leaks.  lol 8-X

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • PamPam Member Posts: 73 ✭✭
    edited October 2016

    Luckily I managed to get a clause into the agreement when I bought the boat regarding the A/C, amongst other functions.

    I have now made an agreement with the previous owner and he will reimburse me for the costs of getting a new unit installed. It will be fixed within three weeks.

    Thank you all so much for you involvement.

    Regards

    Post edited by Pam on
  • blackjack3blackjack3 Confirm Email, Member Posts: 7 ✭✭
    Dream_Inn said:
    I'd try setting it to heat just to see if that makes any difference.  At least worth a shot.
    This is what I had to do with mine also and it worked fine.Doesn't seem to switch in auto mode for some reason and I just program for heat or cool whatever I need.
  • blackjack3blackjack3 Confirm Email, Member Posts: 7 ✭✭
    I had the same issue mine would not switch in the auto mode.I had to set it to heat only to get it to provide heat.
  • PamPam Member Posts: 73 ✭✭
    edited October 2016
    RinkerYan

    I tried to find any prior threads on the subject in the forum, without success.

    At the moment I can´t recall how many program steps I saw.

    Can you confirm that this is a Dometic system and do you by any chance have a user guide, or at least the table with the program numbers and their functionalities/setting/options?

    Thanks

    Post edited by Pam on
  • PamPam Member Posts: 73 ✭✭
    edited October 2016
    RinkerYan

    I tried to find any prior threads on the subject in the forum, without success.

    At the moment I can´t recall how many program steps I saw.

    Can you confirm that this is a Dometic system and do you by any chance have a user guide, or at least the table with the program numbers and their functionalities/setting/options?

    Thanks

    Post edited by Pam on
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