Does the engine water pump require any service?

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Answers

  • Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,025 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If it is fresh water cooled, the weep hole at the base of the circulation pump will leak rusty water when the circulation pump is going bad.
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
      would it be rusty or just coolant? 
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    Ras, it really is easier to yank it off the hoses.  It really does take some yanking and cussing, but leverage twisting the pump on the engine will help.  I've probably done this on a dozen different boats or more.  The toughest part on all of them is getting those hoses off.  The next time around (2 or 3 years later), it is much easier.  I truly can't say I've ever tried leaving the pump on and removing just the front as you have, but that O-ring would be a bear.  (like the O-ring on the genny impeller)  At least you don't have two engines crammed in there (like the 280 or 290's).  The extra power is nice, but for only a bit larger, makes maintenance even tougher.  I will say that absolute toughest seawater pump I've worked on is a 2000 340.  That was a real bear....and I even got an older Nissan outboard for the effort (bit more than the usual bud ritas)

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    10-4 dream- keep in mind this is not the "std" pump but the bigger brass one. Looks like the other style, the hose attaches to the housing where the impeller is located which would be impossible to do on the motor. This one, you have 6 10MM bolts which lets the pulley and the housing where the impeller is come off the front of the motor. I think if I could get the strainer and hoses for the genny out of the way I might be able to bolt it back up. I think the design of this pump, it's intended to be serviced like I'm trying to do it. Since I have the back side of the pump laying in the bilge, there is nothing to pull against to get those hoses off so I'm kind of committed at this point to finish the way I started. I'll hit it again this evening and let you know how I made out. One thing for sure, I NEVER give up!
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    and when I bought this boat, I absolutely wanted the single drive as I knew I'd never be able to afford to keep up two motors and outdrives, heck I can't afford the one I have!
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    ok, well, did pretty well . I undid just the fuel lines on the fuel pump. Removed the two bolts that hold the fuel water separator and pushed that all aside and there it was, pump. So I was able to get in there and get most of the bolts joining the halfs but it started getting late. If I had done this in the first place...This would not work with the o4 or older pump I think. We'll see if it all holds together, can't wait to get it back in the water as the weather is great!
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Ras, I can hardly believe how fast you have become a veteran of '"engine bay wars". and how much you now know! Way to go! MT
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    Doing good Ras!  & if you get a chance, take a couple pics to post on here.  I am absolutely sure they will help someone else go thru this, as there are many 270 owners out there!

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    it's easy Mike, I don't have the money to drag this to the shop so I have a history of fixing what I have ( I'm really cheap) from my house to my toys.....I can have a 300Z Nissan motor laying on the ground in about 2 hours, tore apart my Harley from stem to stern....have to save those BOAT bucks for when I can't fix something!
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Hey, the fuel line I took off the electric fuel pump, is there a sealant I did to put on that fitting when I put it back together?
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Same road I've been down Ras! MT
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    dang, I got the rest of the couple of bolts put on no problem but having a lot of trouble getting the pump in position to get the little 10MM bolts to start to hold it on the block. The hoses put tension on the pump and do not want to give and allow alignment of the holes to start one...little bolt with a fine thread. I had stuff down there in a limited space to force it but just could not make it happen. Will try again in the am on Saturday....Can't wait to do this again in a couple of years.....
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    ok- job done, will add this as what should have been an obvious tip, it is tuff to line up the pump and start the small 10mm bolts, I lined up one hole and put a drill bit thru to hold and then was able to leverage to push the pump up and start a bolt then 10 mins., done. I was afraid I would mess up the brass threads but it was fine. Could not start and test, back to starter selonid thread....
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    ok, well with starter now fixed I cranked up the motor which was great to hear. Turned the lights on so I could watch the temp. Was doing ok,,,,starting coming up in trmp.....175....and it kept going. So I shut it down. I got back in there with a light and I now notice through the glass in the water reservoir - no water. Now, I have a fresh water cooled system. So, I have a thru hull and also a line to the foot. I had hooked a hose up to the foot and closed the thru hull and turned on the water and assumed until the thermo opened the water would not flow, until it started getting hot. Even if the pump was not working, would not the water pressure in the hose fill that reservoir ? Or even the thermo?? Hope I did not toast the impeller.... 
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