Bravo III in salt water

majoma

I am looking at a 2001 FV 310 with twin mercruisers and Bravo III out drives. The boat has been a fresh water boat (lake) but I intend to have it in the water in salt water.

Does anybody have a similar boat in salt water who can give me some advise?

Thanks

Black_Diamond

Are you keeping it on a lift? Trailering? In the water? Does it have a closed loop cooling system?

majoma

I am going to keep it in the water and it has a fresh water cooling system but I am concerned about the outdrives.

Black_Diamond

There are a few salt water guys that can chime in, but:

There is a different Mercathode system for salt water

You'll need to change the 'zincs' for salt water

Bottom paint needs to be suitable for salt water

The big issue is salt accumulation and corrosion in the engine parts I believe.

 

TonyWalker

I wish I could be of help beyond telling you my experience.

The Salt Shaker has always been a salt water boat.  Lift kept.  I think that makes a huge difference in slowing the deteriation down.  I have had few problems other than pitting of shiny parts etc.  The original out drives were XDP's, particular to Volvo engines and they were not much problem until they failed for their own reasons.  New Ocean X drives and new Volvo engines perform magnificantly but they are too new to give an opinion on how salt water affects them.  I will not surprised to see them last and last.  Of course you have to keep up with the zincs and keep up with the maintainence pretty consistantly.

The only downer is that I do not think a fresh water boater would be interested in purchasing an experienced and fit salt water cruiser.  But that is ok.

Tony

Salt Shaker 342

TonyWalker

I forgot to ask.  What salt water will you be keeping your boat in?  We are just south of Tampa on Terra Ceia Bay.

Tony

TonyWalker

 

The biggest problem I seem to have is keeping the hull looking new.  The tropical sun is very damaging.  I have the hull detailed and waxed once a year, sometimes twice and I can see the day coming when I will need to paint it.  I have had the Salt Shaker since 2006.  Purchased new that year.

Tony

TonyWalker

I keep thinking about the subject of salt water and how it may affect your boat.  I forgot to mention, the Volvo's and maybe the Mercs have a garden hose connection that allows a fresh water flush of the risers, exhaust manifolds etc.  If you have this feature, you can extend them to the transom.  Makes it easy to "flush" without raising the hatch.  The recommended proceedure is to run the engines at idle, each in turn, running full blast city water into these connections for five minutes.

I wish I had some info on what to expect with your outdrives.  I have seen a couple that were kept in salt water for long periods of time and they were a mess.  I have found that if our boat has to stay in the water at the dock, it is good for three days minimum.  Things start to grow on the out drives after roughly 6 days.  If you take the boat for a short ride every few days however you should avoid most of the bad stuff.

About the bright stuff, the stainless steel items, railings etc tolerate the salt pretty well.  It is the lesser metals, such as the faucet in the cockpit galley that seem to suffer.

Tony

raybo3

On my 2002 342FV I put it in the water around the end of April and take it out around Nov 1st. In Aug I have the boat hauled out and have all the zinc's replaced and bottom power washed. I would never go the whole summer without mid season maintenence. 

LaRea

Shouldn't be a problem if you use proactive maintenance:

1) Apply a good anti-fouling paint made specifically for outdrives.  Ask a local mechanic or Bravo owner which paint works best in your area. 

2) Change the anodes, which are probably magnesium.  

3) Haul the boat annually (and maybe mid-season, says Raybo3)  to repaint and install fresh anodes. 

4) Visually inspect the drives often during the season for corrosion.

5) Check the condition of the raw water pickup hose. Especially, check the transom thru-hull fitting, which can corrode and restrict water flow.  You can check the fitting without removing the outdrive. To replace the hose, you have to remove the drive. 

Michael T

Rinker ships their boats with zinc. Because I'm in fresh water I change those to a less noble metal - magnesium. I would use zinc in salt, aluminum in brackish and magnesium in fresh. MT

TikiHut2

Bravo 3s are tough drives (probably the best I/O available) but are disproportionately loaded with dissimilar metals. DON"T let those anodes go too far. Raybro is absolutely on target with mid season maintenance.

Here's a pic found on the net of a neglected boat left in a hot marina with obvious galvanic corrosion issues with nearby boaters or the dock electrical system....... Use and maintain your anodes/Mercathode/bonding straps and bottom paint and you'll have no problem. Keeping an eye for random issues like an inattentive/absent dock neighbors electrical connections is also good prevention. Listen to dock mates for abnormal corrosion problems that may rain on you too. Good luck and welcome to the forum. Mike

PS Tonys shiny new Volvo drives are awesome. First impressions sure look like they've solved their prior issues.

Dream_Inn

chock it up as another reason I'm glad mine is on a lift. 

I'm with others on being preventive and just checking the anodes often.  Very easy to do if you anchor in any shallow sandy areas.  Lift the drives and take a look.