Question on Engine Hours

DanD2

Need some feedback from you folks.....looking at an 2005 342. Boat is in overall excellent shape but engine hrs are at 650. I'm having dealer do a compression check. If things look ok, should I be concerned with the 650hrs?

LaRea

350 Bravo III?

You should be concerned only if other areas of the boat show evidence of poor maintenance. That's 70 hours/year, which means the owners used her regularly, and the boat probably has not sat idle for long periods of time.  If the rest of the boat suggests proper care and maintenance by the owners, and the compressions are uniform, I would not be overly concerned about the hours. It's not uncommon to get 2000 hours from those engines.

How many hours on the generator?  Is there evidence of leaks in the cabin, especially under the mid-berth?  Does the swim platform feel solid?  Did the buyers winterize on land, and did they use a pro mechanic?  All important questions on an older 342.

DanD2

Thanx for the response LaRea,

Generator has 160hrs, absolutely no evidence of leaks. Swim platform feels very solid and it has always been in freshwater maintained by the marina. This is a 5.7 Volvo Penta DP.

LaRea

Other things to check:  Gelcoat cracks at the base of the radar arch (possible freeze damage, mostly a cosmetic issue, usually not a big concern).  Condition of the battery hold-down clamps (corrosion could indicate water pooling under the battery trays). Age and condition of cockpit carpets (check whether the rubber backing is starting to crumble).  Take a close look at the tray under the air conditioner - check for corrosion on the tray and/or vibration mounts.  If negotiations get serious, ask the seller to share the maintenance records with you. 

Sounds like you might have a good buy on your hands.  Let us know how it turns out.  Good luck!

Michael T

Dan, I'm guessing that a 2005  342 runs around $90K. If it looks like "the" one, are you getting it surveyed? Does the dealer have maintenence invoices showing frequency of engine oil and filter changes? MT

Dream_Inn

Yes, Lara is correct. And some genny hours is good too. Definitely compression checks is a must. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

TonyWalker

Are the drives XDP's

DanD2

So compression check came in at pretty much 174 - 176 all cylinders. Survey is done and everything looks very good, the only issue is there is a bunch of blistering but dealer told me they would remove it all and either redo the Gel coat or bottom paint, my choice. Working on getting the service records now, hopefully I'll get them sometimes next week.

212rowboat

First off, that is great uniformity between cylinders... Like, really good.. secondly, on a low compression engine, that is pretty dang tight.. I would have expected 160ish... Did they do a wet compression test for comparison and check leak down?

I'm out to lunch on gel coats and fiberglass work.. I hope it works out for you, though.. I DO know that I sold a set of jetskiis a couple years back that were blistered, and know the guy I sold them to. After a local glass smith got ahold of them, they looked band spanking new..

Michael T

Dan I don't like blisters, more commonly known as osmosis blistering. Here's my 2 cents. If you poke the blisters with a needle or finishing nail and some water bleeds-out that's not good. The best process is to open up the holes with a purpose designed drill bit and then let them dry-out. This can take a fair bit of time if required and done correctly. The last thing you want to do is apply a barrier coat over a hull with moisture in it unless you want to use your boat as a submarine. It is, in my opinion, imperative that you have a specialist look at this hull before you purchase it. He will use a moisture meter and maybe even take transducer readings of the hull. If he says it can be repaired properly - and hopefully he'll specify exactly how in writing - you can decide if it's worth it. If it is, I would choose a bottom coat process over any attempt to re-gel coat the hull. Will the seller offer to share the costs? Again, in my opinion, I'd be real careful that you do not have a delaminating hull because there is really no good solution for that. Get an expert opinion! MT.....P.S. I hate to be negative at this exciting time for you but I wrote a comment here last year about a really nice gentleman at my marina who bought a cruiser for his retirement. The hull was shot. The boat is essentially useless and his insurance will not even consider a claim. It was heartbreaking for all of us to see how ill the process made him.

DanD2

Mike, appreciate your comments, dealer plans at their cost to do this. They have a pretty defined process on how to deal with this and I trust them but will probably take your advise and have someone look at it before they reapply anything!!

If everything looks ok, should I have them gel coat or bottom paint? Boat will be kept in freshwater.

Black_Diamond

Barrier coat and bottom paint for sure. Otherwise you'll be back where you started. It's probably cheaper than re-gel coating too. Or close at the price of paint

Michael T

Hey Dan, I suggest that the only way to go is with a bottom coat.I think trying to re gel coat the bottom is a really useless idea in my opinion unlless you have say 3 blisters. In my opinion, the bottom coat should consist of two or three flash applied barrier coats and a final epoxy coat. Depending on where you boat different "final" coats should be looked at and whether they are ablative - wear-off on purpose, or not. I boat in fresh water with algae growth being the giggest factor so I had three flash barrier coats applied then a high quality epoxy final coat. I can easily clean off the algae so I do not need an ablative type coat. To conclude, I suggest: 1. Have an expert determine the extent of the water infiltration into your Hull 2. Get the expert's opinion as to it being worth repairing. 3. Have the expert write-up a detailed plan for repair as part of the  process and recommend the types of coatings that should be applied and on what timetable.4. If the hull is worth repairing, will the owner pay part/all for the repairs?  I'm guessing that this job will be about a $5,000.00 job. 5. Make sure that any opened "blisters" are given plenty of time to dry. 6.Make sure that after the hull has been sanded that it is "tack ragged" to remove debris before the barrier coats are applied, the last thing you want under an good barrier coat is debris that could weaken the bottom coat or cause unnecessary bumps on the surface. Ask what type of warranty you will get with this process? Good luck :-) MT

frenchship

Dan, Blistering know as osmosis is a serious thing as MT explain if you puncture one of the blister the liquid inside will have a foul smell like vinegar. If the problem is all over the best repair is done by sandblasting (glass bead) the entire area then let the entire area dry completely that could take a long time depending of weather humidity and should be check with a moisture meter of good quality. Then a multiple coat of epoxy barrier coat should be applied. I would doubt the applying gelcoat will be good enough barrier coat to properly repair this Hire a good surveyor who can be in charge of the work, certainly not the dealer that want to sell you the boat Good luck

Michael T

Dan, Frenchship is right on about the drying time. I had a neighbour who wanted to save a really nice go fast he had. It took two months for the opened osmosis blisters to dry enough to register an okay on a moisture meter. This was in the fall when the humidity was lower. I'm sorry, as this may not be good news to you but osmosis blistering to any significant degree on a hull should be treated with the utmost caution and repaired "by the book". Fingers crossed for you! MT

DanD2

I'm pretty well versed on most things related to boating but not on this subject. Certainly appreciate all the comments. Survey was done on this boat back in 2011 and the surveyor made note that no blistering was evident and soundings were taken of the hull with no abnormal conditions found. So it appears that this blistering is recent. I certainly will proceed with caution....again, thanx for the comments.

MarkB

Barrier coat is the most important thing to do on your hull. Properly applied that is the only way to stop blisters. Having said that why would you repair the Gelcoat first and then apply the barrier coat? If I planned on keeping the boat I would have both done.

Michael T

Mark, you have to drill out the blistered area until you find "clean" material then repair it. I assume that once the blisters have been repaired and sanded smooth that the barrier coats and the final coat of ablative or non-ablative bottom coat finish can be applied. There should be no need to gel coat over the repair, in my opinion. MT

frenchship

By the way applying gelcoat over epoxy is not recommended adhesion problems, it could be done but looking for trouble overtime.Gelcoat is better over fibreglass. Paul

TikiHut2

I'll agree with the great comments on blistering. There are no shortcuts that have longevity.

Tony has an excellent point regarding those drives. He (and many others) had a very painful $$ experience. Do a search on Volvo drive issues to be sure you aren't buying the problematic version.

Try not to get emotionally attached and keep doing your research. Good luck, Mike

DanD2

Drives are the regular DP's not the XDP's. I called a surveyor today and I'm going  have him check to ensure moisture is gone before any barrier coat. Good thing is that this boat has been stored inside all winter long. The blisters are very small so hopefully most of the moisture will already be completely gone.....we'll see once they open them up.

DanD2

So we made the purchase today. They will start work on the hull this week and I'll have the surveyor look at it once the hull is sanded back. I'll keep you guys posted.

EDWINC

Congrats , welcome to the family

Dream_Inn

That's great! >-

raybo3

Hey DanD2 welcome to the RBOC and good luck with your new ride........

jmoen438

Congrats Dan!

MarkB

Congrats.

Lifes Good

Nice choice!

DanD2

Surveyor checked the hull out and everything looks good. He popped a few of the blisters and nothing came out. A bit of moisture in a couple of spots on the transom but was very confident the steps the marina was taking would alleviate any issues down the road. They started sanding the waterline today....will make sure everything is dry before the barrier coat.

Here's a pic of the port side cut and buffed.

MarkB

That's a nice looking boat!!!!!

raybo3

Sweet looking boat......