FUEL GAUGE PEGGED AT FULL

Webb232BRWebb232BR Member Posts: 4

First, I was an ATT Senior Technician for 18 years so I know a little about electrical stuff.  With that this simple circuit is kicking my butt and pride.  I just installed a new sender (checked prior to installing; 33-240 ohms, and several times now after installing).  I have removed the instrumentation cluster to access the gauge.  Should I be getting 12V from the I (ignition) over to the S (Sender) when I turn the key on?  I get FULL reading with the sender hooked up with the boat's original wiring or my straight wiring (wires from the S sender and the GRD lug on the sender housing using wires laid across the floor) either one.  I have wired straight from the negative battery post to the gauge and used my wiring and got the same FULL reading.  I have used an external fuel gauge and got the same FULL reading.  IDEAS??  ANYONE???

Is there an electronic/downloadable schematic for this boat?  1998 Captiva 232BR

5.7L 1998 Captiva 232BR, Bravo III, Trailered 2-3 weekends/month, Tubing/Skiing/Cruising

Comments

  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It may be that your float is hung up..
  • Webb232BRWebb232BR Member Posts: 4

    OK, I went back to my boat yesterday to do some more troubleshooting after posting this issue.  I turned the key on and the gauge worked!  If it "fails" again now then I know I have a wiring issue. 

     I am prepared to run new wires from dash to transom, if needed.  Anybody have ideas on best method to get that done?

    5.7L 1998 Captiva 232BR, Bravo III, Trailered 2-3 weekends/month, Tubing/Skiing/Cruising
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    use the existing wires to pull the new ones..

    I betcha the float hung, and dropped at some point before your return.. it's worth a look-see.. it's moderately easy to get to if you can pull the five screw cap off the tank (where the sender lives).. simply unscrew it, pull it up enough (getting it out w/o much clearance is another story and maybe not easy at all) to get to the pivot mechanism, and hit it with some solvent such as wd40.. you may want a new cork gasket handy as well.
  • Webb232BRWebb232BR Member Posts: 4

    Thanks 'drewactual' but, I can watch the float go to the bottom of the tank as I install the sender.  Also, I ran the tank dry last season in anticipation of this project this spring.  Last weekend I put 20 gallons in my 75 gallon tank so I can know exactly where my gauge should read.  Yesterday it read 1/4 tank which is perfect. I actually cut the float mechanism to allow for little reserve on my gauge.  I got it.

    I really appreciate the response but, I am almost certain this so to speak "problem" will reoccur intermittently.  It will be a shorted sender wire at that point.

    I'm just happy to see the gauge work which tells me that both sender and gauge are good.

    5.7L 1998 Captiva 232BR, Bravo III, Trailered 2-3 weekends/month, Tubing/Skiing/Cruising
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd look at the connections, it takes very little to mess up the signal via being loose or corrosion. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    BD, if he wired straight to the sender from the dash on his own wiring, which I would guess has perfect integrity, and if it was wired correctly, I would guess the problem is with the float and not the sender..

    the most obvious float problem would be that it is/was hung up.. he said it wasn't.. that directs to the next issue which could be the variable resistor on the float arm- and responsible for providing both the constant buffered reading and the actual level reading.  if that variable resistor is toast, and it isn't from a bared wired providing constant voltage across the points which is visible and repairable, it's time for an entire new float arm..

    but whata I know.
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