Yes it's fuel injected. Havnt checked dist cap or rotor. Gonna check fuel filter. Boat stays on a lift when not running it so bottom is clean. Just bought it only had it out 4 times so trying to learn it and make sure not operator error. Thank you all for you suggestions.
If you have the outdrive trimmed all the way down and the the trim tabs down as well, are not over loaded and are using full throttle, it's not operator error.
...rope in the prop. LOL ...or was that serious....
Welcome razor and congrats.
All good tips above.
You may not get over 2800rpm until it starts to plane and you can't get there if the boat isn't running right (IE: old gas, distributor, prop size wrong.....rope on prop, anchor down ). A lack of rpm may also be a protection feature of the engine computer if you are running hot or have some other internal issue.
Assuming it's none of the above it could easily be that the drive isn't fully down and your trim tabs aren't either (as was said). Both help lift the rear of the boat so it can start to plane off. lastly (but not least) if your crew is all hanging out in the back of the boat waiting for the speed action to start and are "larger sized" folks you may have to redistribute some "movable ballast" to the front/mid section of the boat. It'll help balance the load on an invisible pivot spot somewhere between the bow and stern. Giant coolers and tons of baggage in the stern has the same effect. Keep it forward to help get over the hump and up on plane.
Imagine a water skier who only stood on the tail of the ski or a surfer who never balanced in the middle. Your boat may need the same push over that balance point. Of course your boat starts with a ton of weight stuck in the stern with the enginge/outdrive/fuel/water/waste tanks that has to be forced over the pivot until it breaks free and can plane off. If I have a full house I'm not shy about asking my guests to sit forward until I get up to speed. Just sayin'.
Once you get it up on plane you should see your rpm increase to about 3700-4000rpm for cruising speed. Trim up the drive just a bit, pull up the trim tabs, move your crew until the boat feels balanced and it should be everything it can be.
If it was just bought, I could see someone just bolting a prop up to it right or wrong.. especially if someone wanted that prop..
02 250... Were they alpha or bravo? That 5.7 ought to push to plane w/o much effort, no?
I'd start by firing her up, pushing the button that's not plainly a button in the center of your throttle/shifter arm, and revving the engine.. I'd be listening/feeling for rough spots in response and/or knocking/vibrating... I'd also hold a steady engine speed for a minute or so around 1200rpm, which is the point you're entering a decent duty cycle to volume ratio with the injectors, and feel for the same misfires or vibrations.. this will indicate health of the fuel systems.. if you hold that steady engine speed in neutral and don't have any weird bumps burps vibrations or obvious misfiring happening, pop the throttle a few hundred rpms north, and back down, up and back down, up and back down.. if it revs instantly and uniformly, your fuel is delivering unhampered..
This is a good test that will show latency if any.. latency will be demonstrative of clogged or clogging filters, weak pump, or obstruction.. remember, an obstruction can also be a simple venting issue, so, check your tank vent(s) for lack of.. finally, after this test checks out, drop the hammer on that thing and return to idle as fast as you can actuate the throttle.. it should rev high and fast w/o load, and return to idle within a second, and not cough at idle at all.. coughing indicates dirty induction path and/or weak valve springs..
If all this checks out, the next thing I'd look for is a vacuum leak.. there aren't many places a vac leak can happen in comparison to a car, which is a dang good thing, no?
Figure out what prop and drive you have.. I'm interested to see what prop that thing pushes, through what drive, and the gear ratio..
Answers
PC BYC, Holland, MI
you're not WAY over propped are you?
can you rev through the entire range not under load? (as in neutral)
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Welcome razor and congrats.
All good tips above.
You may not get over 2800rpm until it starts to plane and you can't get there if the boat isn't running right (IE: old gas, distributor, prop size wrong.....rope on prop, anchor down ). A lack of rpm may also be a protection feature of the engine computer if you are running hot or have some other internal issue.
Assuming it's none of the above it could easily be that the drive isn't fully down and your trim tabs aren't either (as was said). Both help lift the rear of the boat so it can start to plane off. lastly (but not least) if your crew is all hanging out in the back of the boat waiting for the speed action to start and are "larger sized" folks you may have to redistribute some "movable ballast" to the front/mid section of the boat. It'll help balance the load on an invisible pivot spot somewhere between the bow and stern. Giant coolers and tons of baggage in the stern has the same effect. Keep it forward to help get over the hump and up on plane.
Imagine a water skier who only stood on the tail of the ski or a surfer who never balanced in the middle. Your boat may need the same push over that balance point. Of course your boat starts with a ton of weight stuck in the stern with the enginge/outdrive/fuel/water/waste tanks that has to be forced over the pivot until it breaks free and can plane off. If I have a full house I'm not shy about asking my guests to sit forward until I get up to speed. Just sayin'.
Once you get it up on plane you should see your rpm increase to about 3700-4000rpm for cruising speed. Trim up the drive just a bit, pull up the trim tabs, move your crew until the boat feels balanced and it should be everything it can be.
Good luck and have a safe summer. Mike
02 250... Were they alpha or bravo? That 5.7 ought to push to plane w/o much effort, no?
I'd start by firing her up, pushing the button that's not plainly a button in the center of your throttle/shifter arm, and revving the engine.. I'd be listening/feeling for rough spots in response and/or knocking/vibrating... I'd also hold a steady engine speed for a minute or so around 1200rpm, which is the point you're entering a decent duty cycle to volume ratio with the injectors, and feel for the same misfires or vibrations.. this will indicate health of the fuel systems.. if you hold that steady engine speed in neutral and don't have any weird bumps burps vibrations or obvious misfiring happening, pop the throttle a few hundred rpms north, and back down, up and back down, up and back down.. if it revs instantly and uniformly, your fuel is delivering unhampered..
This is a good test that will show latency if any.. latency will be demonstrative of clogged or clogging filters, weak pump, or obstruction.. remember, an obstruction can also be a simple venting issue, so, check your tank vent(s) for lack of.. finally, after this test checks out, drop the hammer on that thing and return to idle as fast as you can actuate the throttle.. it should rev high and fast w/o load, and return to idle within a second, and not cough at idle at all.. coughing indicates dirty induction path and/or weak valve springs..
If all this checks out, the next thing I'd look for is a vacuum leak.. there aren't many places a vac leak can happen in comparison to a car, which is a dang good thing, no?
Figure out what prop and drive you have.. I'm interested to see what prop that thing pushes, through what drive, and the gear ratio..