Windlass

jaubryjaubry Member Posts: 125 ✭✭
Question, My windlass has power to the unit. The batteries are fully charged. When I depress the up or down button on only get a click. The power draw is not great and doesn't drain the battery. Is there is relay or solenoid? Seems the power isn't getting getting to to the motor.

Comments

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,391 ✭✭✭✭✭
    have just gone through a similar routine on a boat recently purchased. You state you have power to the unit but you question if the power is getting to the unit- which is it? Take a mulitmeter and go right to the motor and work your way back. I had no power at the windlass motor and when I traced it backwards, found a wire had either fallen off the switch or what I suspect, was never hooked up. With the hours on the boat I bought, I don't think they ever used it as there were no marks on the switch that look like it was installed. Anyway, even if a wire looks connected, does not mean the wire can't be broken inside the plastic. The meter will tell you everything. If you have power at the motor then you have something going on with the motor- the switching is pretty easy to track down with a meter. Good luck!
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    Wow!  Ras is right on this!  Nice to see those lessons learned helping others!

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • WeberWeber Member Posts: 249 ✭✭✭
    I had a similar issue with mine last year. Not sure what year boat you have, but if it's mid 2000's or later it probably has the relay built into the switch, and is a weak spot.

    Once you determine if it's the windlass or the switch, you can than decide to upgrade to a switch and relay setup. This prevents the amps of the windlass going through the switch, and only the relay.

    It's easy to pull the switch and see how the voltage gets switched around depending on direction. Use a meter and it will tell you if the switch us doing it's job or not. I think I had to cut my wires at the windlass to check for power there, and reaching in the access can be a pain but not to big if a deal.
    Sin or Swim - Rinker 312
  • jaubryjaubry Member Posts: 125 ✭✭
    I believe it is a solenoid. When I press the switch, I hear it clicking. I cannot get into the anchor locker as the whole is only 6" and the terminals are tot he starboard side mounted on the top. I cannot reach it. I presume I need to remove that whole from wall to fully access the locker? It sound like an old ford bronco/ranger solenoid of the fritz. I'll keep you posted with the findings.
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,391 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I hear that on mine as well but do not see it listed on the typical wiring set up.....as far as access to the locker, my 270 has two inspection/round type covers behind the mirror (good luck on that one) that can be removed for access to the windlass, at least from the bottom. Check your wires for power, if you have power and no action then this is the area to undo the couple of nuts on the underside and then you can easily remove the windlass for further inspection....but, sound like you might be on the hunt and tracking this down. I can't wait to hear the splash when that anchor hits the water- this weekend will be the first time it worked!
  • DanD2DanD2 Member Posts: 848 ✭✭✭
    The same happens on my 342. When I bring the anchor up, I have to baby it when the anchor gets to it's resting position otherwise it'll lock up. the only way to release the anchor is to loosen the pulley (not the right name) with the special wrench, then it'll release,
    No longer a boat owner.....previous boat - 2005 Rinker Fiesta Vee 342
  • jaubryjaubry Member Posts: 125 ✭✭
    Well, I took a deep dive today into the issue with the windlass. Turns out there was a ground issue in the dash at the power bar. Because the ground wasn't secure, the draw from the windlass was just too great and didn't get power to the solenoid. All fix and the anchor functions excellently
  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,042 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Nothing better than an easy fix!
    2008 330EC
  • jaubryjaubry Member Posts: 125 ✭✭
    Easy does it with easy fix...still had to chase it. Took apart the front wall in the state room to locate the solenoid, so on and so on. :)>-
  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,042 ✭✭✭✭✭
    True, but think about how much more you know about your boat and no $$$$ was spent :)
    2008 330EC
  • TikiHut2TikiHut2 Member Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I can't find a grounding bar under my rat nest of dash wiring. I suspect my intermittent electrical problems with my trim tabs is rooted in a loose ground in the dash. Anybody have a hint where to find it in a FV270??
    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    Tiki, check the engine room.  My '07 370 has a ground bus bar on the starboard side above the batteries. 
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2014

    Speaking of windlasses, we anchored our 360 for the first time this weekend at a popular spot. We couldn't believe how many "captains" used their windlasses to pull the boat towards their anchors (even against a decent headwind) when leaving AND how many "captains" tried to break their anchors free while the rode/chain was at a significant slope. How do you say let's burn-up our windlass? As I am sure all of you do, we motor slowly towards the anchor to take the load off the rode (hey, that rhymed!) but not so much as to create excessive slack and then position the anchor roller slightly ahead of the anchor to break it free. BTW I read on this GREAT forum how to make a Prussik Knot which we have practised making and will use on windy days! MT

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,391 ✭✭✭✭✭

    and a Prussik Knot is what?

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Hey Ras, there is a thread on the forum about this but you can "google" it and there are videos. Essentially you make a bridle attached to your anchor line with both ends of the bridle attached to your forward cleats. Then you take the load off the main anchor line thereby transferring it to the two cleats. This saves you from the potential of a bent bow pulpit/roller assembly. The Prusik Knot is a slip knot that was developed by mountain climbers and is very easy to make. "Google" it for a great video(s). MT

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2014

    A much better idea RY. Obviously, it fit in the Rinker oem locker. What length and type (G4?) of chain did you use? MT.....of course the use of chain does not obviate the need for a prussik knot as the knot is meant to save your pulpit/roller not the rode.

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2014

    Yes. BTW...RY, what was the total length of chain you used - the oem from Rinker was 130' line + 30' chain. Did you use 160' of chain?

  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    RY, you do boat in deep water (over 100'), but you don't anchor in deep water. I like the use of the prusik not as well. Works really well on a windy day, especially if you have your isenglass up and your boat is a sail.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,391 ✭✭✭✭✭

    ah so much to learn....that's a lot of weight in the boat if you have 160' of chain! God forbid you have a windlass problem and have to pull that by hand...or, the strain it's putting on the windlass pulling up all that weight!

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,391 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I will google that MT, but, if you tie the line off to a cleat, how would it bend the roller anyway???

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Ras, you tie it off to TWO cleats, like a harness or bridle to spread the load.  I have friends who tie their rode/chain to the cleat in their anchor locker but because it still goes over the bow roller/pulpit assembly it can bend it like a wet noodle in wavy conditions. The Prusik Knot takes all the strain off both the windlass AND the bow/pulpit roller assembly and spreads it between the two bow cleats.Tthe guys on this forum discussed the PKs many virtues last year and their advice was - as usual - golden. MT

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,391 ✭✭✭✭✭

    wow Yan, I would have thought a LOT more than that.....MT- that makes better sense...keep in mind I just got mine working and the only time I used it was the street in front of my house! Made a heck of a clunk when it hit my trailer but what a sweet sound it was! I will check out the PK's, another advantage I would think is it would keep the boat straight to the wind/waves rather that tying off to the side where it would constantly fight the same.

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
  • firemedic388firemedic388 Member Posts: 4
    edited July 2016
    I need help!!! I have a 2003 Rinker 290 Fiesta Vee. I have a stock windless installed and I am replacing it with a Lewmar pro fish 700 windless. I looked at working diagrams for the new windless and it has a relay and a rocker switch that has to be installed. I traced some wires from the current setup on my boat and I can't seem to find a relay box anywhere. Does anyone know if this system has a relay box or am I chasing my tail. If it has the box where the heck would it be????
    i appreciate any advice.
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,391 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I had run through my wires recently, don't think you have a relay box- on my helm, I have the raise/lower and then a I guess a relay that you throw which does disconnect it from the battery. I think there was an inline fuse near the unit. Good luck, I'm sure someone else will chime in!
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