Bad coupler mercruiser 5.7 ??
TikiHut2
Member Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭✭✭
Seems like I have a coupler about to fail in my '04 5.7 Mercruiser. After a 10mi run this week I suddenly heard a rumbling sort of low frequency roar at cruising speed. It seemed like the props were suddenly cavitating and engine revs started to increase a bit as the boat started to fall of plane. I stopped and checked the props for debris or slop or metallic sounds when turned by hand but there was nothing.
Oil levels were fine and the drive wasn't hot but I idled a few miles with no odd sounds. After 20 mins I decided to try and ease it back on plane. Gently pushing it back up all seemed fine until I started to trim the drive out a bit when the roar retruned. retracting the drive to a fully fwd/down position and the rumble disappeared allowing me to limp home at cruising speed. Any attempt to push a bit of trim out would cause the noise to return.
All I can figure is that the engine coupler rubber or spline is about shot and with the drive fully down the splines have a bit of a bite left. I'm not looking fwd to an engine pull and want to be sure I'm on the right track. Anybody have a similar experience with those symptoms?
Thanks, Mike
Oil levels were fine and the drive wasn't hot but I idled a few miles with no odd sounds. After 20 mins I decided to try and ease it back on plane. Gently pushing it back up all seemed fine until I started to trim the drive out a bit when the roar retruned. retracting the drive to a fully fwd/down position and the rumble disappeared allowing me to limp home at cruising speed. Any attempt to push a bit of trim out would cause the noise to return.
All I can figure is that the engine coupler rubber or spline is about shot and with the drive fully down the splines have a bit of a bite left. I'm not looking fwd to an engine pull and want to be sure I'm on the right track. Anybody have a similar experience with those symptoms?
Thanks, Mike
2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
Comments
You'll have to pull the drive to find out any of this. IF you need a new coupler, upgrade to the heavy duty one for a few bucks more, cheap while the engine is out.
http://www.mercstuff.com/couplers.htm
While it is all apart, good time to replace ujoints, etc.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Just the thought of a drive issue is not great news but I'll post as I get into it.
If it's the coupler then pulling the motor isn't a terrible job and I'd have an excuse to replace the oil pan and do some other hard to get at maintenance while I'm at it during my off-season.
RY, you've been smelling diesel fumes too long. Lol. I guess it beats being snowed in..... but not by much. 4mths of broiling season before my boating season restarts so Ill be in the engine compartment.
Thanks. Mike
So unless there's some other magical fix Ill be doing an engine pull to replace a coupler that is probably original '04 so I can't blame it. Im actually impressed it ran another 60mi mostly at cruising speed after the first symptoms.
Pics of the coupler from above and one inside the bellows and one checking the gimbel bearing that's awkwardly reminiscent of an uncomfortable Dr exam..... "this won't hurt a bit....and cough". From here on out those will always be called a gimbel bearing check.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Trimming in/out slightly to recreate the noise at speed is the other mystery.
I have the drive off and the hoist set up over the engine but haven't started disconnecting/unbolting anything in the engine bay just yet.
Tiki,
There is a cone clutch in the upper drive unit, if that's going out I would expect the drive oil would not look/smell good from the slippage. I'd drain the oil and look for metal shavings or the fine aroma of burnt drive oil. They (cone clutches) can perform erratically when on their last breaths.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
As for the coupling, there's no real apparent rubber debris or burnt stench to indicate a coupling failure and the shaft spline was completely free of any metal shards that would be expected from a stripped spline.
I've misplaced the link/phone# to the OD guys that had been mentioned here quite often. Anyone have a clue about who to call that might recognize an OD mystery?
Worth a phone call. A coupler would be cheaper!
PC BYC, Holland, MI
I checked my drive oil for metal and even pulled the top cap but it was perfectly clean so Im feeling pretty confident its not the drive.
The coupler spines look and feel fine as far as I can tell. Pretty sure that the motor comes out tonight.
Thanks. Mike
U-joints are another suspect even though they look and feel perfect. Don at all American drives says u can't tell by feel if they are getting sloppy enough to wobble\shake a bit when slightly off angle by trim.
He was adamant about checking drive alignment yearly but no later than every 24mths and completely intolerant of an alignment tool that can't be pulled out with only two fingers in each engine rotation at 90* angles. Thats a really tough standard.
He also spent 30mins diagnosing the drive while I'd wrench to be sure it wasn't something internal. An enlightening discussion on drive issues of all brands filled the gaps. What a great resource and he truly knows his stuff. He works on all drives but really likes the newer VP drives. I wouldn't have guessed but he's up to his elbows in all of them. Mike.
Drew, the B-III props are solid SS, no hub to spin..well not at least without major damage to the drive too. lol
The guy at All American Drives is a great resource...he'll talk your ear off about drives They rebuilt both of mine, handy he's only 1.5 hours from my home. Small shop but stacked with drives everywhere, even does complete specials for high HP applications.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
BD. I wish I had a guy this qualified only an hour away. Sorry about your drive trouble but glad you had the right guy so close.
Engine team hits it tonight.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Somebody here once said, "if we didn't use them they'd never wear out". The fact that things are wearing out hopefully means we're busy using them for all they're worth. This drive drama isn't as painful as some of the folks here have seen lately but every boat dog has his bad-drive day. Lets just hope they're behind you (and BD and Ray and Tony, etc..) for a good long time.
Have a great season, Mike
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Yeah G54, Too flamin' hot tnite. Heat index in the shop over 100* at 6pm and only came down to 90* by 11pm. Couldn't muster the work force to climb into the bilge.
Ray, the crusty old cabin boy was allowed to stand in edge of the photo. My gal has a weakness for double fisted Tiki guys with a tan.... but man, that grass skirt is scratchy. lol
Ah, the update. Got after it this morning and a few hours later the engine was out and hanging at eye level. Nothing terribly difficult, all the bolts came loose thanks to a few days of soaking with penetrating oil, labeled all the wiring, took pictures of connections and just generally kept moving at a steady pace. Here's the gruesome crime scene.
Looks like the rubber is slipping in the housing. The splines are fine.
Somebody asked about my oil pan re-paint from last fall. Well it looks like this is a condensation issue that everyone should be aware of. I'll re-re-paint.
The Admiral is sizing up the aft cockpit for a hot tub Tiki Zone
And some Bravo 3 top end gear-set p0rn for the hard c0re art lovers. she is in great shape....luckily. Parts are on order so we'll see. Mike
Glad it was only a coupler. Did you order the HD replacement? You might look into POR-15 for repainting. It will seal/stop the rust.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Man, I'd consider an aluminum pan... They aren't that much more, and likely relieve enough stress to pay for itself... Besides.. it will never be easier than right now...
So post a link to what you'd recommend. It's probably time to check the sump screen anyway. Apparently a marine application is baffled to deter oil movement when climbing onto plane and there'd need to be an accommodation for the dip stick accuracy.