Any Tips For pulling Tube From Lifting Rings

rinker270nb

I put a ski harness on the two lifting rings of the transom of my 270.  When I threw the throttle the transom went down (bow went up) and the tubers were pulled under water and dragged until I planed out.  Any tips to keep the boat flat?  Adjust trim tabs, load weight forward, etc?  I don't want to pull from the transom cleats and would install a ski eye if needed.  Thanks all!!

Michael T

R-270 For one last try before you drown the tubers I'd try drives fully "in" and tabs fully down with guests forward. If that doesn't work and you decide on a dedicated ski eye I'd find a place where I could install a 1/8" thick aluminum plate (on the back side of the fiberglass) at least 6"X6" or better yet 8"x8". I'd pre drill my holes, spread a skim coat a thickness dictated by the eveness/uneveness of the surface of the fiberglass, but up to 1/8" thick to spread the load evenly across the fiberglass (the excess will ooze out) of 3M 5200. Spread it evenly across the surface of the aluminum plate, bolt it down with the ski tow eye bolts and let it cure for two days before pulling tubers/skiers. I pulled skiers/tubers for over 40 years (my late wife was a competitive water skier) and have installed all kinds of "hybrid/custom" back plates. There is a huge amount of point loading when pulling from one location. Tubing is even harder as it has "snap" loads or what is referred to as "on/off" loading, so I highly recommend a good sized aluminum backing plate bedded in 5200. Good Luck MT

270FVFamily

We tried to do some tube pulling on our 270 with our kids last weekend and our new tube, although nice, has always had an issue no matter the boat where once we get going it would rather be a submarine and dive to the bottom of the lake than float on water.  The result was scarier for us this time since I had the same idea about a ski eye, I wanted to try dragging it from up higher rather than the transom rings, or even the rear cleats.

I ended up making a V by tying one end of a rope to one cleat, threading it up through the handle rail on top of the back hatch, making the V, and back down the other side of the handle to the other cleat.  Not the prettiest thing but I was experimenting thinking the pressure wouldn't pull the cleats clean out, and would put the rope where I would most likely put a ski-eye, toward the top of the back side of the hatch (behind the back seat just up and to the right of the fenders holder.)

Started ok, but we had a hard time getting her going especially with all the extra weight we had on board for the holiday weekend. Then the inevitable, the tube decided to take a dive.  The Admiral was watching the kids and all I heard was a massive BAM!!!, sounded like the back of the boat must've snapped off, lol.  Luckily it didn't, since the hatch is one big piece the massive pull on the top back of the hatch made the front part lift up and slap back down. Didn't tear anything up other than my nerves but have to figure something else out.

Only bad news is we'll need a new tube that likes to float, good news is the old one fits perfectly on the bow for the Admiral to lay out, lol.

Let us know if you figure something out...

JoeStang

With that experience I would definitely try add add a designated tow ring on a non-moving surface. Also make sure the tube is VERY inflated, as any amount below 100% inflated will cause it to submarine.

Something like this is flush-mount and I would do a backing plate too.

rinker312

after a few years of pulling my kids with the cruiser. I have solved the problem. Buy a jet ski!   You will save enough fuel to pay for it in a couple years and if your kids are old enough they can pull their friends around without harassing you.  I used to use the cleats to pull the kids and they are still in place. I've noticed some spider cracks around them but can't say if it is from pulling them or not.