spitting engine
corky
Member Posts: 5 ✭
Hello everyone, I have a 2002 232 captiva with a v-8, 220 horsepower motor. Normal driving the engine runs fine when I open it up all the way and get to max speed the motor starts to spit doesn't stall. I just had prop repaired but didn't think that would have anything to do with that. Just wondering if it was bad gas that might have had ethenol which I never use, but might have gotten without knowing it. I'm going to put a new water seperator filter on this weekend hoping this is the problem if you have any other ideas what this might be I surely would appreciate it.
Thanks
Comments
Welcome! When was the last time you checked your timing? The fuel filter is a good start also.
never checked timing before. I will see about doing that also thanks. I checked fuel filter at beginning of year it was clean. worked fine until this past weekend. Gonna try a variety of things this weekend. Thanks for your help.
Also besides timing, when was the last time you had a full tune up including plug wires?
never the boat has 320 hrs on it
PC BYC, Holland, MI
corky welcome to the RBOC. My 2002 342 FV gets a tune up every other year.....
Corky, did this wide open throttle issue happen right after having the prop repaired? The reason I ask is if changes were made the prop that allows the engine to turn at a higher rpm, you might be hitting the rev limiter.
This started right after I got the prop repaired. I noticed today that once I have full throttle it makes the noise but as soon as I let up just a little it stops. I have no idea what the rev limiter is. Thanks for the help I will check on that
The rev limiter limits how many revolutions per minute (rpms) your engine can turn so it does not damage it self. On my 5.7 EFI, when I had the wrong props on it, the rev limiter would kick in at full throttle intermittently cutting power to the engine so it would not over rev. Once I got the correct props on it ( Bravo 3) it brought the rpms down into the safe range, and I could run at full throttle with no issues. This is not something that you would change or adjust.
You're limited at 5200rpm... You can safely turn that, but you're past the cam designs peak... It can turn 6-6200 rpm without the limiter, but you'll only see that once...
Corky, I'm having the same issue. I've lost 400 rpm at WOT and spits a bit as well. The rest of the range seems fine. Saw poat by Black Diamond to check cap and rotor so I checked mine. Turns out my wires , cap and rotor are original 2003. Posts under the cap are all corroded with greenish white crust. Tab on rotor button black on end with some roughness. Was thinking it was my new iridium plugs I bought last year, but now could be these parts. I will let you know my results later in the week when I try it out.
Using a 350 magnum as an example. Even running full synthetic oil with race quality wires and plugs and an engine "flashed" to the perfect air/fuel ratios - particularly not a LEAN fuel situation - bouncing your engine off the rev limiter and running at wot for extended periods of time, IMO, is a rich man's game. Even with steel cranks and roller cams these engines are not balanced enough and do not have the oil or fuel delivery systems reliable and consistent enough to be run at wot or bounce the rev limiters very much. If you do this a lot, IMO, you will limit the life of your engine - a lot. Throttles pinned to put it on plane and the odd rip to wot for 5 minutes or so and all's well. Otherwise it's rebuild time. True, the marinized engines are a whole lot stronger than their automotive counterparts (the 496 truck engines that were "marinized" to make 8.1 marine engines would blow-up real fast in a boat, if their valve overlap didn't fill them with water first), that said the stronger built everyday marine engines were built tough to handle constant cruising LOAD not wot or rev limiter bounce. The rev limiters were designed for unusual circumstances, a wildly spining propeller (out of water) or hub blow out - not to save anyone from pinned wot fun. IMO. I advise to tread lightly at wot unless you have a deep wallet. my 2 cents. MT
You'll find the cap/rotor are every 2 year items depending on usage. The plugs are not the cause, it's humid and they just corrode.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Thanks to everyone the help. I'm going to get a new prop I think it has been repaired 3 or 4 times, and even the repair shop said I may want to think of getting a new one. This weekend I'm going to check my cap and rotor to see what that looks like. Does anyone know where to order cap and rotor and plug wires. Should I go to a boat store or order somewhere on line. Thanks.
About any marine store should carry them.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Replaced original wires ,cap and rotor. Now have my lost wot rpm's back and my top speed. Problem solved. Thanks MT for your view on the marine engine. Short runs of wide open are good for me and now have a better appreciation of how marine engine design is for reliable steady cruising. Don't have "deep pockets" for the hard running wot game anyway. Black Diamond you were right, it was not my plugs after all. Thanks for that.