Trim Sensor going bad?

midweste

Hi Guys, 

Several outings this season I've noticed the new-this-season Teleflex Lido trim gauge isn't really reading as accurately as it used to. I suspect it is the trim level sensor/indicator on my Alpha One Gen 2 drive. 

Is the trim sensor difficult to replace? 

Also, when running at high RPM's I noticed the trim doesn't seem to move very quickly when making adjustments. Is this normal? I've checked the lines and fluid and it operates normally when on the trailer. 

Any ideas? 

Thanks!

-MW

TikiHut2

Not too sure about your boat yr/model w/o some specs but on my '04 merc 5.7/Bravo3 it trims up/out much slower at 3800rpm cruising than down/fwd as it's pushing against everything that motor is dishing out. While down/fwd at 3800rpm cruising is near instant with the prop pushing it fwd.

That trim sensor is a chore to replace on some models as the transom penetration is well back in there. Without an age I'd hope that maybe it's as simple as a bad/failing contact relay on the trim pump becoming intermittent under load. Otherwise be very sure before you commit to replacing that sensor. You can mark the location of the sender and pull off the puck to see if it looks damaged or corroded. 

Why was the gauge replaced, and did the old one have the same issues?

Hope that's helpful. Mike

midweste

Thanks Mike,

Its a 2000 180 Bowrider, 135hp 3.0L Mercruiser, Alpha One gen 2 OD. I installed all new gauges at the beginning of this boating season since some of the old ones were questionable. I vaguely remember the old trim gauge didn't move very much and was slow to respond. 

After watching a few YouT*be videos on the subject, I am taking your advice to mark it, then inspect / repair if possible. 

Merc manual says to pull the OD 

TikiHut2

Great update on your boat specs. 

Pulling that drive isn't really too tough if it's trailered and you can turn a wrench(or find a good friend who likes cold beer and will help). Pulling the drive is only part of that job as the lead runs inside the gimbel housing then through the transom. Challenging even for most patient back yard guys.

It's a little off topic but I'd probably recommend you count on pulling that drive if you haven't if for no other reason than to check the OD alignment and grease the splines. I had paid someone to do mine but became suspicious after hearing too much drivetrain noise. I personally pulled my B3 drive to find the alignment had NEVER been done. Not by the guy I'd paid to do it, not by the previous owners guy who got paid, and amazingly NOT EVEN BY THE FACTORY ON INSTALL. The motor adjusters were still in the fully retracted delivery position from being mounted on the installation/delivery pallet. The factory tabbed retaining washers had never even been touched and the motor must have been lagged in and the drive was bolted on no matter what the alignment might have been (which was way off). 

I bought a drive alignment tool for $30 on Ebay and in a simple 15mins procedure had to raise the front of the engine almost a full inch to correct for a binding between my motor coupling and the drive shaft. It had chowed my coupler (a $500 part requiring an engine pull) which I also did myself. 

Just sayin'. Good luck with the puck and the drive alignment if you go that far.

Regards, Mike

midweste

Thanks Mike, it's better to be safe than sorry.  I will definitely pull the OD now to check the alignment, bellows, install a new impeller kit, check the coupler, etc...

Handymans342

Has anyone pulled their trim sensor apart? Its just a resistor/ wiper blade. Should be easy to clean. 

raybo3

Handy I dont think you can take those apart. My guess is is that it is some form of a pot. Water tight I think if you pull it apart you cant get it to seal again. From what I understand the hardest part of replacing this is running the wire back to the helm. If you cut the wire and splice it up and use heat shrink you will be ok. 

Handymans342

Yeah, it has an oring as I just put it back together. Was clean and dry. It has no voltage to it, just increases or decreases resistance. 

Handymans342

I figure heat shrink and then liquid electric tape. 

raybo3

If it was dry maybe its something else. Can you check it with a meter?

Handymans342

Yes if I pull the dash out again.

LaRea

What I've heard is that cleaning the resistor rarely helps, or at best it's a temporary fix.  You can't replace it without removing the outdrive.  (I have two awaiting installation before launch day.)

Handymans342

Are you replacing them LaRea or the marina? 

Cableguy Greg

I replaced my own once by splicing the wire before it goes thru the transom plate. It lasted about 2 years with the boat slipped in fresh water. The splices were not waterproof splices. It is easier to properly do it with the drives off. @Alswagg might know of a way to do it with the drives on.

Handymans342

There is a youtube video that shows drilling a hole in the drive mount and another thru the transom and splicing it inside the engine compartment. Takes 30 min. 

LaRea

Mine will be done by my mechanic, with me as a helper.  Gonna replace bellows while we're in there, and the water intake hose on the side that still has the original one.