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Bilge pump replacement, no space to work

My bilge pump needs to be replace, but the motor takes all the space. How do you do it? If I need a mechanic what will be the scope of work and how much time will it take? (hope he does not tell me he needs to pull the motor out)

Thanks,

hcabal

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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,625 mod
    Does the pump have a fixed mount with a removable motor?  Maybe you can just replace the motor and re-use the mount.  Which boat, which engine, which pump?
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    Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have two bilge pumps in the engine bay of my EC 360. One I can get to the other - and of course it's the main one lower down - I'd have a heck of a time getting to. When it fails I might just add a new pump. That may sound nuts but I have had several friends who could not get to the actual pump but could manage to get the hose off it and just install a new one near it. IF you need a Hail Mary. MT
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    MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,969 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The pump should simply snap off the housing, then you can remove it from under the engine and replace. If you can't reach it, them I would just install the new pump in a new place at the same depth in the bilge. 

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

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    hcabalhcabal Member Posts: 7
    Thank you all. the boat is a 2002, 250 FV with a Merc 350 Magnum. I can,t even see the pump so I do not know what type it is. To make things worst the automatic function on the  forward pump failed as well and had water all over the cabin carpet. When I go boating I leave the lake intake valve for the toilet open; I do not know if by closing it it will reduce the water that accumulates there. The fittings seem to be OK. Any sugestions.

    Thanks again.
    hcabal 
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    TonyWalkerTonyWalker Member Posts: 744 ✭✭✭
    edited October 2014
    I know the horse is out of the barn so to speak but when you put it all put back together and fixed, you might consider a second pump, this one where you can see it and work on it.  I did that with the Salt Shaker and got to say there is a lot of peace of mind with that second pump.

    Tony
    Post edited by TonyWalker on
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    qwikwhipqwikwhip Member Posts: 63 ✭✭
    I have the same exact boat. I replaced my pump and float switch this year. It's a standard rule 1100gph pump with the snap base and the float switch can be unscrewed with a stubby screwdriver. It's a pain in the butt to get to, and the whole project requires a bit of a contortionist act to get to. But it is defenitly doable, although it may almost be easier to pull the motor. lol
    2005 Captiva 232 Liberty Edition, MX6.2/B3, Corsa
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,283 ✭✭✭✭✭
    once you do a starter and a water pump, this sounds easy!
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    PamPam Member Posts: 73 ✭✭
    edited November 2014

    Forgive me for high jacking the thread but I believe it´s the same topic.

    Since I have had my engine pulled out I´m about to replace my forward, engine compartment, bilge pump that’s not working (Rule 1100). There is also a second BP on the port side, one the previous owner have installed due to him not being able to replace/service the forward one. However it is located a bit too high in my opinion. The lowest part of the bilge is at the cavity by the drain hole.

    Since it´s almost impossible to service a BP once the engine is in place I´m leaning toward adding a third pump at the lowest point.

    An alternative could be to attach a pipe from the second pump, port side, and route it to the lowest point. However I don’t know if that would give the pump to much air to digest before water is being pumped.

    Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions/ on this??

    The boat is a FV 250, 2003.

    ...and  yes, some cleaning is badly needed. :D 

    Regards, Johan

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    MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,969 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Um, off topic, but why do you have a lowrance transducer inside your bilge?

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

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    PamPam Member Posts: 73 ✭✭

    Well, I have a Lowrance LMS 522 and a previous owner or Rinker mounted the transducer inside the bilge. It works perfectly, except for the temperature, and means less holes below the waterline in the transom and less surfaces for barnacles to grow on.

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    MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,969 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2014
    Huh, go figure. That is the wrong transducer for a floor mount. The floor mount is a flat, round transducer like a disc. Anyhow if it works that's great. Did they epoxy it in? 

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

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    raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,469 admin
    Mark not true. On a older boat that I had the transducer was the same as the one in the picture and it was a "floor" mount of a stern mount.
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
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    MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,969 ✭✭✭✭✭
    OK, but it isn't the optimal one for floor mount. The floor mount Lowrance makes is a round disc. It's made specific for floor mount. 

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

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    Lifes GoodLifes Good Member Posts: 465 ✭✭✭
    Pam what is the square plate with 4 bolts just above the BP2?
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    PamPam Member Posts: 73 ✭✭
    It is a stainless steal bracket that the PO made in order to add an extra PB as far in under the engine as possible. By releasing the nuts on two bolts, that are epoxins to the bilge, I can release the entire bracket and bring out and access both the floting switch and the BP as both are mounted together on the bracket. 
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    ruggeroleruggerole Member Posts: 161 ✭✭
    Just had the same issue. No way to access the pump...except to remove the floor in the cabin area. About 24 screws between the floor itself and the seats. Slide the floor forward about 12". Easily access the pump from the front of the engine.
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