inverter question time

youstolemybeer

1994 265 dual batteries with  1=both=2=off switch

I would like to install an inverter. The plan is replace the isolator with a new one (old one is 24 years old and I honestly do not trust it). Then connect isolator to battery number 2 and leave the Bat switch on number 1. In theory this will turn battery 2 into the house battery, and #1 into the start battery (completely isolated from #2). When I wear down #2 I should be able to start the engine without any trouble and charge the dead battery. All with out touching the battery switch.

Does this sound right or am I missing something

Thanks

Steve

JC290

Sounds right in theory just make sure your stereo and amp dont draw down starting battery 

youstolemybeer

JC290 said:

Sounds right in theory just make sure your stereo and amp dont draw down starting battery 

mmmm ok should I run a dedicated wire to the stereo (no amp) if so, could I get away with just running a power wire and using the already there ground?

youstolemybeer

duh after looking at the wiring schematics, all I have to do is move the feeder wire on the battery switch over to the battery #2 lug inside the switch.

Thanks

Steve

My_Dinghys_Dinghy

I would only use an inverter while running. If you are using it while docking, I would use a generator (If you're using it at a permanent dock) You could lock it in your dock box. $1000 for a very quiet Honda or $400 for one at Tractor Supply. I have a mobile DJ business and would only use an inverter if the engine was running. While I wouldn't risk it even with 2 batteries because of being safe than sorry is my motto, I wouldn't be running an inverter to power anything unless you're running a fridge. Regardless MAKE SURE YOU ARE WELL GROUNDED to the block. I considered an inverter but will probably just get a 2000 watt Honda, it's only 50 pounds and I can put it in my engine compartment and use my blower to vent it.
http://www.wisesales.com/eu2000ia-honda-generator.html?gclid=CMjK5Oq5xsECFTMQ7AodencAqA

frenchship

I would not run a generator in your engine compartment even with your blower on it would be dangerous CARBON Monoxide ...... 
I run mine in the rear compartment with the door open and a muffler extension.

youstolemybeer

unfortunately the 265 does not have the back storage area, or the room in the engine area. So it looks like Im stuck with the inverter. I would like to install a 1000 watt inverter. Im thinking that with a fresh start battery and isolator I should be ok. I will acid test everything at the dock before I venture out on the river in the middle of November though. Im thinking that if I turn on all the lights, the radio, and plug in a fan that should drain the house battery fairly quick. Do this without shore power connected and let the battery wear down. Then try to start the engine. If it don't crank, I will know that there is a problem with my wire idea, if it does start, then YAHOO YIPPEE I have a system that will work on the beach.

I will keep you posted

THanks

Steve

youstolemybeer

well it came out as a sorta Yahoo yippee thing.  come to find out the house main wire comes off the starter and not the battery switch. To get to the starter I have to drain the water and pull the water tank.   NOT TODAY.  pulling that tank is a pain and Im too lazy

MarkB

What do you want to run off the inverter?

gslpro

I guess it is time to bring this little gizmo up again.  

If you have only a single starter battery system, this will cut the power when it reaches a lowered-voltage state, but with the turn of a key, it reconnects the 12v, giving you power to start the engine.  It mechanically closes the connection at 11.9v.  I always had this on my single engine boats, and it got used several times by running it too long on radio and such.  Just connect it to the starter battery, and you are done.  

youstolemybeer

I looked at one of those, preferred the isolator. Why, I really don't know. All I am wanting to run on the house battery is the radio, lights, tv/dvd combo and maybe the coffee heater. I was thinking about a small parabolic heater but then did the math. Wont work

MarkB

The radio, lights and possibly even the TV will all run on 12V. Why do you need an inverter? 

Michael T

The battery (in the picture) it is connected to looks like a big gel battery which, if true, would make more sense than a flooded cell battery. I say that because while the Priority Start will protect any battery from an absolute discharge, putting one on a flooded cell battery (particularly a single one) won't, imo, give you much time to fail - unless it was a huge flooded cell - because an ordinary flooded cell (series 24, 27 or probably even a 31) would not last long with an inverter on it. MT

youstolemybeer

markbellino said:

The radio, lights and possibly even the TV will all run on 12V. Why do you need an inverter? 

because I have OCD so the radio and lights should be on one battery not both so that I do not have to worry about the start battery ever possibly wearing down.

The tv dvd combo, well I like the idea of having one mounted above the locker on the bathroom wall and the dvd mounted inside the locker. Also, because I already have the tv/dvd and the inverter (xantrac 1000), I got them for free from another boat. So why not, it gives us a cheap excuse to go to the marina and play with the boat

Michael T

If you keep everything but the engine(s) and generator, if you have one, on the starter battery and all other draws on a house battery (ies) you will be fine as long as it/they are on a battery isolator or have a Priority Start type of isolater device. Even if you just have one flooded cell battery you will be fine. When it runs down you can either manually switch your battery isolator to starting battery or a priority device will have shut-off the drwa on a single battery. Eithjer eway you should be safe. My best scenerio for you would be to have a series 31 AGm for dedicated starting battery and a series 31 agm with inverter on an isolator. MT

MarkB

Am I missing something here? An inverter is for turning 12V into 120V power, not for isolating batteries.  Based on what you are saying, you need an isolator and a batter switch.