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Michael TMichael T Posts: 6,558Member ✭✭✭✭✭

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  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 4,555Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Pay now or pay later RY!  I'd splurge on the Ex Warranty with that Axis Drive.  Preventative maintenance is always key for a boat (or anything really).  I do drive maintenance yearly.

    2003 342FV "Black Diamond", 350 MAG MPI, 20P 4x4 Props, PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Annapolis, MDPosts: 5,197Member, Moderator mod
    I do the same as well, except my anodes really don't need replaced often cause it's lift kept.  I do always touch up the skeg bottom (always manage to touch some sand, not sure how :) ) and give the drives a good waxing.  Can't tell the difference between my new drive (installed in April) and the other one except a little wear on those stickers.

    Good list MT.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • MarkBMarkB OntarioPosts: 3,269Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    By the way, is your bottom coat painted up to the drive on the transom. If so, that can be causing corrosion. Ablative paints may contain metallics like copper which can for a circuit with anything it is contact with. I had my bottom paint applied with a 1" gap away from my drive to ensure it did not come in contact. I believe even Mercury will void corrosion damage on a drive if the paint touches the drive. 

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

  • Mike_GMike_G Lake St. ClairPosts: 256Member ✭✭✭

    OK.. maybe a dumb question; How heavy is the B3 drive?  Could I remove it myself?  Is there some sort of stand to put it on, or just lay it on the ground (on a couple of towels or something?)

    I have never actually removed an entire drive.  Once on my old Sunsation (Bravo I) I did have to unbolt the trim rams and use straps to hold the drive up (so I could trailer it home).  The trim pump broke on me and the drive was fully down.  I barely got the boat up the ramp without scraping the skeg on the concrete. :o -=Mike G.

    2014 Rinker 260EC


  • LaReaLaRea Alexandria VirginiaPosts: 3,401Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Most yards use a hydraulic jack on a wheeled cart.  It is possible to do it without a cart -- preferably as a two-man lift.  My mechanic can do it by himself, but I wouldn't want to try it.  
  • Michael TMichael T Posts: 6,558Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2014

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    Post edited by Michael T on
  • pepmysterpepmyster Posts: 308Member ✭✭✭
    Yup, preventative maintenance is always the answer to most of our lay-overs.

    All I've wanted was to just have fun.

  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 4,555Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    You can pull a B-III with a friend, take the props off first (way less weight) and use a floor jack under the skeg. Putting it on is the harder part, just lining up everything and the splines. 

    2003 342FV "Black Diamond", 350 MAG MPI, 20P 4x4 Props, PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • RussRussRussRuss Posts: 28Member
    I have wrestled mine off alone but do not recommend it - very tough to do and bruised up my thighs using them to help lift.  You basically end up balancing it upright on skeg until you lay it down.  I lay mine on an old rug on a 2 wheel hand truck and wheel into pickup bed.  Not too bad if you have a helper.  I also use a 4x4 on a pivot under the skeg to help wiggle it off and on.
  • Michael TMichael T Posts: 6,558Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2014

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    Post edited by Michael T on
  • Mike_GMike_G Lake St. ClairPosts: 256Member ✭✭✭
    OK.. thanks guys.  Much appreciated! -=Mike G.

    2014 Rinker 260EC


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