Poor factory wiring

serviceguy

someone must be dealing with issue. 2010 Rinker 296-wired from the factory so the key must be on to use the stereo. Of course with the key on the current draw is unacceptable, killing a big deep cycle in an hour or so. 160+ boats in my lot, not one of them wired this way. Many other wiring issues as well, non abyc compliant, and just plain dumb. I have to wonder if the factory boys ever actually use their products.

luckydog

My 312 is the same, I have to keep the Port engine key on the on position to play stereo

Capt Ron

If this bothers you why don't you rewire the stereo to the 12v directly.... very easily done since the terminals are usually just behind the dash.

MarkB

You mean you cannot rotate the key counter clockwise into the accessory position, to run the radio. You should be able to. That doesn't provide power to the engine. 

Cableguy Greg

My key turns to the accessory position to run the radio on my 280 and my old 232. I have never killed a battery with the radio before. On my 232, I had 2 amps, the stereo and a crossover. I had a 27 series DC battery on board running it.

The Main Exchange

Our 280EC key turns counter clockwise to the accessory position to power the radio.

frenchship

On mine I had to turn the key on for the radio. I just switch the radio connector on the switch to accessories 5 minutes job.

youstolemybeer

wow I just went thru this last weekend on mine (1995 265) I dont know how easy it would be for yours but for me it was pretty simple. I ran a positive wire from #1 battery up to the radio and hardwired it with an inline fuse.

The factory wire harness is a joke no matter what you buy, IE the cigar lighter in my jeep. The cigar lighter is rated for 15 amps, yet they used 20 gauge wire, that is from factory. God help you if anyone has added anything to your wire harness.

It might be in your best interest to get the original wire diagram and make sure things are connected as the diagram says they should.

JoeStang

serviceguy,

Can you turn the key counter-clockwise or no? I dont see why anyone would want it hard-wired, as I would think that would increase the risk of running the battery down (forgetting to turn it off). The entire system isnt powered with the key in accessory, just the 12V stuff like the radio, lights, transom shower, and GPS. And any of those can be turned or switched off so there is no draw. 

JC290

Mine works off the breaker in cabin no keys necessary 

MarkB

Lights and gps shouldn't be on accessory switch position of ignition. Only the radio should be. My lights and gps are power via the bus at the helm, not via the ignition. 

TikiHut2

My '04 270 key is turned to the acc position and it's been no issue with substantial discharge after a whole day. As stated, if it bothers you it's a 5min job to swap the lead to a + terminal at the dash. Honestly not worth my time unless I think of it when I'm in the dash hooking up yet another must-have electronical marine wonderment.

For a fact, 99% of production boats have wiring that deserves at least some tidying up back behind bulkheads and through the chases (Also known as rat runs, but maybe too graphic for the squeamish). A few hrs with a hand full of tie-wraps doing support, re-checking terminal presses and looking for chafe zones is just good sense for any boater.

Mark and JC have your easy answer.
Mike

Mike_G

Yeah... a couple wiring issues with my 2014 from day 1.  Windshield wiper shorted out (trips breaker or runs by itself, can't turn it off).  Also, all speakers are wired to the front output of the radio, fading to rear results in no sound.  Not a huge deal, but it would be nice to be able to quiet down the cabin stereo if someone is napping down there.  Also, the cockpit speakers are running off of the amp and the cabin speakers seem to be wired directly to the stereo itself.  Oh.. and the amp wouldn't turn on the first couple of hours that used it (that's how I know the cabin speakers run off of the head unit directly), but that seemed to correct itself and has been fine since.  It's back at the factory getting all fixed up though, so no worries.

As for the stereo.. I know I have to turn the key to use the stereo, but I can't remember if it's to "accessory" or to actually "on".  -=Mike G.

Stodge

Actually I think the cockpit speakers being on the amp, and the cabin speakers being off is on purpose.  Mine is that way and it makes sense to me.  Same with the fader.  Setting it all backward turns off the music in the cabin.  

Mike_G

For me, turning the fader to rear turns off all of the speakers. -=Mike G.

MarkB

Mike G, you should just change the wires around on the stereo unit. Put the cabin on the front speakers and the cockpit on the rear speakers.  I use the fader to shut off the cabin speakers (especially for when the kids are watching a movie, while we are having drinks on deck).

Stodge

It took me a while to figure out that's how things were set up.  But it works well.  Also my stereo will work any time, don't need the key on at all.  As far as I know that's how it came from the factory.

Cableguy Greg

Mike_G said:

For me, turning the fader to rear turns off all of the speakers. -=Mike G.

That should be a simple fix if the head unit has two sets of preamp outputs. Just change them from the front output to the rear output.

Mike_G

Yeah...  I figured as much.  It was going back to Indiana anyway so I'm letting them take care of it.  I don't have any of the removal tools to pull the head unit either (used to years ago), and I didn't want to try "alternative" methods on my new boat.  

I will say, that I thought I would have to upgrade the stereo right away, but it actually sounds pretty good!  At slow/no wake or when just chillin' there's even a decent amount of bass too.  -=Mike G.

MarkB

Mike, I'm pretty sure you can get to the back of the radio via the TV cabinet door. 

Mike_G

OH!  I should have just looked.  Didn't have the boat long enough I guess.  All I wanted to do was use it before the season ended.  I bought it just after the Metro beach boat show in the middle of September.  Only went out on it three times not counting a quick couple hours hanging at the marina, before it needed to be sent back.

I might be installing a sub somewhere next year (need more bass in the cockpit), so that's good info for future reference.  I just can't convince myself to cut a hole in the fiberglass somewhere..  not yet at least.  Plus, I'm not sure how to run wires through a boat... no experience there either.

OK.. I'm getting off topic. Thanks for the info!  -=Mike G.

JC290

Cableguy Greg said:

Mike_G said:

For me, turning the fader to rear turns off all of the speakers. -=Mike G.

That should be a simple fix if the head unit has two sets of preamp outputs. Just change them from the front output to the rear output.

Power for my amp was hooked up wrong it was hooked to the attenna wire moved it to correct wire and works fine now 

Cableguy Greg

I can access my radio via a removable panel in the cabinet with the TV. One of the leads on the AUX input from the helm came disconnected and I had to fix that so I could use my iPod at helm.

Mike, if you have a storage area under the drivers seat, there should be room for a sub there. In the 280 there is enough room for a 10" sub. I am looking to add one as well and that seems like the most logical area.

MarkB

If you put a sub somewhere in the cockpit, make sure you elevate it on a pedestal. Under the helm seat is a good idea, as you get extra protection from the elements, but if you ever want to wash your deck or moisture gets inside, you want that sub off the floor.

Mike, running wire isn't too big of a deal. You will need to fish it, obviously, you should be able to fish it just ahead of the engine compartment and then probably the best way to go is up just behind the helm, where a lot of the other wiring comes out. From there you can follow the wiring into the TV cabinet.  You will just have to pull it in about 3 steps. I would start at the TV cabinet and work your way to the sub.

kneedeep

My key has to be on for the radio to work.  There is no left "acc".  I believe this is the way it is on DTS equipped boats.

youstolemybeer

If your planning on putting a sub in, do the next owner a favor and DONT cut a hole in the fibreglass. Put it in a box and hide it somewhere. The previous owner of mine cut the hole and now I have to look at this ugly speaker that doesnt work Or I have to learn how to fix fibreglass.

Mike_G

Yeah.. I think it will probably take a mold of the area under the seat (or just measure it) and do a box that way.  I can't see cutting a hole in my brand new boat.  I might have to drill something small and put a grommet or something though for the wires to feed the sub.   -=Mike G.

Stodge

Mine came with a sub from the factory.  Well the hole was from the factory, the sub is not original.  

Ian

My 2003 310 also was wired to the port key turned left. But I also had an unused ACC switch next to it  simple swap over so no key needed to be left in the switch and I can see easily the lit ACC is on when I shut the door. Not that its an issue leave on and draining a battery being on shore power when docked.