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First Bad day with boat. Update
luckydog
Member Posts: 316 ✭✭✭
First bad day with boat, I bought friends over to go for a boat ride and my starboard engine wouldn't start, I mean doesn't it figure the first time I bring friends over To show off my new boat and go for a Boat ride and it doesn't start.
It's never done anything like that before not even close, The engines started and worked Perfectly Until today
Post edited by luckydog on
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Air is easy.. If it's ran before it's going to warn you before air is a problem.
Fuel can be tricky.. you need it, you need it pumped to the engine, and you need it distributed to the cylinders.. mpi? If so, check your rail pressure first.. it's at the end of the line.. injectors rarely goof.. Schrader valve is on one of the rails. Now, electrically speaking of fuel- your pcm controls the duty cycle/ pulse-width... Put your finger on an injector and have someone turn the key to start, you'll feel it tick.. If rail pressure is off or gone, check regulator.. pull the one off the other engine if you must to check.. check for blockages in the filter... Check that pumps hasn't soiled the sheets.
Fire is controlled by pcm... Coil provides it from battery/alternator where it jumps voltage to north of 35k vdc.. check coil first... They usually warn you first by sputtering in a specific range... Check dizzy.. a crack in the dizzy will condense water inside when hot engine stops, which makes firing it off when that thing is wet impossible.. check all wires for integrity.. Think central, though, because if it was bit one wire (other than coil wire) the engine would at least sputter. the pcm needs info from sensors to manage spark... Key sensors are crank position sensor, camshaft position sensor, and it needs to be grounded well... Check the wiring for integrity ... Pull and clean sensors... The warning signs of a ckps or a cps failing is slight misfiring in a certain range, and that range expanding until it flat won't run.
Did you check to see if your main engine breaker was tripped? If not, do so... If it is, figure out why it has... Check your leads behind the dash panel for corrosion... It needs one to bump the starter, and a constant bridge to run.. you may be able to bump the starter but not maintain (or make) connection to run... Keys and three way position switches can be disagreeably funky sometimes.
Trouble shooting from five hundred mile s is fun, but not very productive.. it's possible, though, If you're real specific in what you see, hear, smell and interpret.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
+1 on the shifter/throttle safety switch or shifter shunt switch. Also check the main harness connector on the engine. Corrosion or general crustyness will stump you some days.
If you add some engine type/hrs/condition detail in your signature and a little more about what you've tried we might be able to help.
It was a honkin' windy day yesterday anyway, gusting to 30mph. Sometimes karma works in our favor.
Good luck, Mike
All it takes is something grounded closer to the rotor tip than any of the points to intercept spark.. then you have an instant no-start/run... Rotor buttons have that springy thing on the top, and I've found tolorances has taken a nose dive allowing wider gaps which spark coils have a hard time bridging, so it finds somewhere else to ground... I always stretch those out just a touch before install, and push them a few times to make sure they rebound to their original shape.