He recommended that I use what he called E-615 wheel bright. He said it is mostly the same as star bright hull cleaner. I didn't get any because my boat is not that dirty so I think I can get it got good and clean with some conventional cleaners but if I cannot I will be getting some off the wheel bright.
2004 Rinker 312, 5.0 Merc's, Bravo III, Lake Wheeler, AL
It essentially strips off the old wax finish, oil, grime and everything that might diminish the effort to effectively compound the hull for a consistent finish. French quoted right from the link posted on Feb 4th above. The gospel for gelcoat refinishing if you will....
Happy compounding. Spring is coming..... believe it or not. Mike
I guess it's been said that almost everything except the products chosen could leave a residue of some sort. On the other hand it'll look great when it's done. Honestly I don't remember if I pre-washed mine and it turned out awesome. Maybe I lucked out. Luck and mucho elbow grease.
I went to buffing on mine again as I never completed the tops side and it's in bad shape. I bought some of the 3M stuff this time and boy did that work great! There is a big difference I'm seeing between the auto stuff and the marine. I did use a maguire polish and not to satisfied with that result and I can't seem to get it all off- will the wax "clean" off the residue left behind? Guess I can try a spot and see....I did wash it down as well but just not coming clean...
yes, I read through it a couple of times and worried that the polish I used not being a "marine" polish just is not working right? I have a nice smooth finish/shine but I can feel some residue still there. Most waxes have some petroleum base to them and will "clean" that off I'm sure, just not sure if it will make a mess of the finish in the process. I have waxed many a car over the years but never had to buff anything or deal with the question I had...guess I try a spot and see what it looks like...
If it doesn't feel as slick as a piece of glass then it's just going to hold dirt/mold/old wax. Strip it off and compound (or wet sand with a fine grit paper depending on the chalkiness) as stated in the tutorial. Then start to buff with progressively finer grade finishing compounds and lastly seal it with a high quality marine wax (like those mentioned in the tutorial) applied in small sections on the shady side of the hull.
Follow the steps with Mucho elbow grease = awesome results.
I took a look at it last night and hit it with some wax- my buffing came out real nice, it's the polish that went to heck on me...I got in a hurry = problems! That polish is not coming off....so, I will follow the directions on the polish a bit better and see if that works and make sure I have it all off before I move on to the next section. This dog gone work stuff sure gets in the way of what I really want to be doing...come on power ball!
Update. The other guys on my dock talked me into a quick wet sand. We used 1500 with plenty of soapy water. Put the paper over a sponge and it was really no harder than giving it a good wash job. Then we used the heavy compound and then the polishing compound from showcar and then finally the collinite fleetwax. We got the back and one side done and it is looking very sharp. I highly recommend the showcar products that I mentioned earlier. They are working great and aren't **** the wallet like the 3m stuff would have been. I will post some pics when I'm on my computer.
2004 Rinker 312, 5.0 Merc's, Bravo III, Lake Wheeler, AL
Ras, As the tutorial says, if you don't spritz the compound with water as you buff it'll burn into the finish. Slow buffer speed, use the correct pads at the proper angle and keep it wet and cool. Above all, learn the correct technique in a less obvious section like the transom vs the broad side. Consistency and proper overlap on the broad sections is critical or it'll be highly visible.
312, NICE FINISH! Really like the idea of wrapping a big sponge with wet/dry sandpaper to follow the contour and edges. Mine wasn't chalky enough to need a wetsand but that's one of the best additions to the tutorial that I've heard. Tackling the finish in sections is also wise.
I did fine with the buffing- it was the polish that did me in as looks like it burned in at a couple of spots. I bought a new pad and hopefully I can re do the polish here and there and clean that up before I go forward....most of the 3/4 side I got done is ok, just a couple of bad spots. Looks as good as the picture above and I did have to wet sand in some areas but using a 2000 grit wet and I used one of those sponges with the built in sanding material for wood working and wrapped with the 2000 grit- worked pretty well also and a little stiffer than just a sponge. The sides I had wet sanded last year and buffed out so the sides are just being touched up- the top from the color up I never did get to last year and it's a mess....
just to let everyone know. I gave the non skid the same treatment as the shiny stuff. Gave it a quick wet sand then went through all the compounds and the collinite wax. It looks great too and actually took on a little shine also. Still plenty rough to serve its purpose though. We tried just waxing it and it just wasn't nice. So we tried a little spot with everything and it looked great so we just continued on.
2004 Rinker 312, 5.0 Merc's, Bravo III, Lake Wheeler, AL
My buffer will be coming out of storage soon! DC is getting snow today (enough to close the Federal Government), then two days of record-setting cold, and THEN, FINALLY, a week of warm days.
Maybe I'll try the wet-sand first. Last year, I used compound, polish and wax on the blue hull. It looked great for almost the entire season, but had some light chalking after five months in the water.
Its on my list in a month or snow, I mean so. Check out the Presta Super Cut Compound. It does a great job and is renown for being one of the most aggressive cutting compounds out there. Its a little pricey but well worth it.
the 3M stuff I bought was 16 bucks and I was really pleased with the results I got with that....I don't think I would want anything for aggressive than that for fear I'd do more damage than good!
Hey, how do you all deal with all the snaps....I'm working around them by hand but would love to take them off, just concerned how many times you can do that and get them back on!
the on & off cleaner is a very strong product , I think is a kind of sulfuric acid , not muriatic acid ...I did clean the ss propellers and looks fantastic..but watch your hands and eyes
Comments
2004 Rinker 312, 5.0 Merc's, Bravo III, Lake Wheeler, AL
Happy compounding. Spring is coming..... believe it or not.
Mike
http://woody-wax.com
Super for SS too!!
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Follow the steps with Mucho elbow grease = awesome results.
2004 Rinker 312, 5.0 Merc's, Bravo III, Lake Wheeler, AL
2004 Rinker 312, 5.0 Merc's, Bravo III, Lake Wheeler, AL
312, NICE FINISH! Really like the idea of wrapping a big sponge with wet/dry sandpaper to follow the contour and edges. Mine wasn't chalky enough to need a wetsand but that's one of the best additions to the tutorial that I've heard. Tackling the finish in sections is also wise.
Mike
2004 Rinker 312, 5.0 Merc's, Bravo III, Lake Wheeler, AL
Maybe I'll try the wet-sand first. Last year, I used compound, polish and wax on the blue hull. It looked great for almost the entire season, but had some light chalking after five months in the water.
Go Steelers!!!
2004 Rinker 312, 5.0 Merc's, Bravo III, Lake Wheeler, AL
2004 Rinker 312, 5.0 Merc's, Bravo III, Lake Wheeler, AL
Hugo, on/off has muriatic acid in it. & I agree, if you have any cuts and get that stuff on it, it will eat right into your hands.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express