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Did an oil report

JoeStangJoeStang Member Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭✭
So, I finally mailed in my oil sample from last season's usage. I used Mobil 1 15W-50 fully synthetic for the entire season with the Merc high efficiency/capacity filter.

I wanted to see the state of the oil & the levels of additives that supposedly may not be safe for the catalytic converters on my 2013.

I'm gonna do some research to see what these numbers mean, but I'm interested if anyone has input.

2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3

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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Joe, that's near perfect, my man... The trace of fuel no doubt caused you to edge up the flash rating. You'll trace fuel easily in a marine engine that isles a lot, and that uses a lower temp thermostat.

    The cats are what's damaged using high zinc oil (zdpp?) The zinc reacts to metals in the cats such as platinum. You won't see that in the oil report, but you'll see it at the pumps (more fuel used) and dropping performance due to a clogged kitty.
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    JoeStangJoeStang Member Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭✭
    The zinc level according to the report is 1185, and that is a lot of reason I did the analysis. I want to keep using the fully synthetic M1 15w-50 for the supposed superior protection and performance over the now synthetic blend 25w-40 Mercruiser stuff. I wonder how that zinc level compares to a full season on the new Merc syn blend?......
    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You'll be fine so long as you follow the schedule, and use an oil that carries the necessary rating. 

    I've said here before and will repeat it: the merc oil isn't the best oil, per say, but it is the one merc says meets warranty requirements.. there is zero chance one oil performs best for all our wide varied uses.  Finding one that works for YOU, and YOUR use is absolutely key... That may be sticking with mercury approved oils until warranty expires, doing an analysis, and then seeking advice based on the deficiency of the oil you were using... Consulting with someone like Bob the oil guy or some such... Ect... Until you find the perfect oil for your application.... 

    But the number one thing, which is more important than even the type of oil, is schedule.  

    The only real advantage to synthetic over dino is longevity... The dino of today is better by leagues than even the synthetic of ten years ago.  

    That said... Amsoil marine is the best amsoil product made... Check out the TSB's on it compared to other oils, and then even other amsoil products.   
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    JoeStangJoeStang Member Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭✭
    I filled the engine with the syn blend Mercury last fall, so I'll do another analysis next fall to see the difference. I agree that even the new dino oils are much much better than the stuff of old, but I just want to get the best protection and performance for the money.

    I'm hoping to get 10 years out of my boat without major repairs, so longevity is a concern.
    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    So if you used regular oil you would only get 5 years?
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    JoeStangJoeStang Member Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭✭
    No, not saying that at all. But could it be the difference between some blow-by when the engine has 500 hours on it? I'm not sure. I've averaged 50 hours a year so far, and probably will do more than that this year, so I'm defintely using the oil and will have high hours when I go to sell the boat.

    I found a virgin oil analysis of the M1 15w-50 for comparison.


    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,283 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I never thought of boats having cats...really? What year do they start at? I have looked through my shop manual for various reasons and sometimes just flipping through and don't recall seeing cats mentioned...just replaced them in my F150, yuk!
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    JoeStangJoeStang Member Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭✭
    Not sure when they started, I'm guessing late 2000's?

    Mines a 2013 and I couldn't get it without cats even if I wanted to. Right now I don't mind because I'll bet it does help fuel usage a little bit and there is ZERO exhaust smell at all. Hopefully they last 7-10 years which is what I plan on keeping the boat.
    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I finally had a moment to look closer at this report, and from something other than my phones tiny screen.

    your aluminum is fantastic, which is good news on a new engine, as the primary culprit of that sluff is pistons... and usually at start up... so, good news. 

    the molyb culprit is likely piston rings... they're seating well, so you'll expect to see some- it can also be used as a protection for hard parts as shipped from OE, prior to install, to keep them from rusting... what the analysis doesn't tell you is if they bake off at temperatures exceeding 200*... they cook them to 100* and analyze.. the 200* mark either leaves hard (no matter how small) particulates, or it burns off.  burning off is more akin to the protective covering than the rings... but no matter, at the first fifty hours there is no worries with this element... they call this archiving. 

    the zinc... er, uh... the zddp.. zddp is a compound containing zinc (the z) and phosphorous (the p)...  The 'dd' is NOT to be ignored, as it is the binding part.  When the compound breaks down, the zinc and the phosphorous have a polarizing affect and fight for metal surface, and often leave the metal dry in the process... the counts are good, because they obviously haven't parted ways yet.  acidic ash is the primary reason why they split- and it looks like both are similar so that is indication they are good.  when one drops and the other hasn't, you know the oils detergents and dispersing agents are wasted, as the detergents can't counter the ash and the dispersing agent can't suspend it long enough for the filter to remove it.  ZDDP is good stuff, though somewhat of an antiquated way of doing business.... it is good only so long as the binders are present, but the second it isn't?  the lubricity and protection on the hard parts heads south, and fast... this is the reason I highly rec an oil change prior to winterizing- this keeps the acid in the ash that is present (no way around it being present) from breaking down the binders and leaving your internals bare metal during those long weeks in storage.

    next time you get one (and since you've set precedence with Blackstone don't use another) order a TBN to get a good reading on the content and life of your detergent/dispersing agents.  

    like i said previously, though, your oil analysis looks very good. 
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Drew, did you stay in a Holiday Inn express last night or what? LOL
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    JoeStangJoeStang Member Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭✭
    edited March 2015
    TBN is at the end of the report, and it was 6.4. How does that stack up? Thanks for the info Drew, thats an awesome summary.
    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Tbn can be broken down for an extra $10, telling you dispersing agent health, detergent health, and about the additive packages.   Perfection is 3.5 where no oil registers.  Most super slick road oils can register as low as 3.7~3.9, but they aren't common.  Yours is good for a 50w oil... Real good.  
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    JoeStangJoeStang Member Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭✭
    Ya know, I did pay the extra $10 to Blackstone for the TBN, but maybe they dont break it down further than that?
    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    dang.... yeah, i would think there would be more than that... I'll have to dig up a report, but I could have sworn it included items such as friction modifier, detergent, despersant, ect... 
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,283 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think 212 is really a rocket scientist! 
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Not at all... Just a bit of a gear head.. :) 

    The TBN was right, Joe, I was wrong.. total base number measures detergents and dispersing agents.  The number gets lower as it is worn.   Your report is right.  I dunno what I was thinking when I wrote that. 

    I confused it with another reading, which measures viscosity coefficients at various ash levels and temperatures and projects where the analyst thinks it's going.. they measure from room temp to flash point, and at different contamination levels added to it by the analyst, representing use at various points.. The lower number in this is the better, with 0 registering the perfect surface (no friction at all) to the higher number representing greater resistance as introduced by the oil... For my truck, the best oil available is rated a 3.5 new, which is great.. some super slick oils not made for long term use (redline racing oil, for example) are around a two or so. 
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    He needs to stop staying in those Holiday Inn Express places. 
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Drew, when I get one for the oilers, you can dissect that one.  :*
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    212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I just did one on my oil squeezer.. she'll rotella t6 for 5300 miles. :-). I'll be happy to... Stuff fascinates me. 
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