what size acutator do i need?

duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
i recently purchased a 2006 250 express cruiser that has a dry weight of 6450lbs. the boat came with an aluminum trailer and i must say, the i-beams and composite bunks were the only good thing about it! i purchased all new wheels, tires and complete kodiak disc brake system(dual axle).   i am guessing of course, but i am estimating 8-8500lbs with fuel and gear and other fluids plus trailer. there are no numbers on the existing actuator that came with the trailer. there is no data on the trailer itself as to it's capacity. will the 8000lbs actuator be enough or should i get the 12,500lbs actuator? here is a picture of the existing  actuator

Comments

  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
    here are the wheels i put on the trailer. can't have a rusty actuator with the new shoes! lol it had the 6 spoke steel wheels on it before. they were pretty rough looking but i will keep two for spares.
  • howardramshowardrams Member Posts: 223 ✭✭✭
    It's tough with no label on the trailer as to weight rating, but if the trailer itself is about 1500 lbs. and given the weight of your boat the 8000 actuator sounds about right.  The trailer size and tire size was probably matched to that weight rating including that actuator.  Maybe find a trucking company or scrap dealer with a scale and get your rig weighed?

    My Tri-axle trailer alone weighs 2100 lbs and boat is 7085 dry so the trailer is rated at 12,000 with the big actuator for a 2-5/16" ball. 
  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
    edited May 2015
    thanks howard. the existing actuator had the 2-5/16 ball.  i went with the 12,000 lb model. 6450 for the boat plus the trailer and fluids i figured better safe then sorry. it was actually delivered today and i mounted it already. all i need to do now is bleed the brakes and we are ready to roll!

    Post edited by duane.mosley on
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    man, have I been here before! Trailer I bought, calipers were all locked up and when I peered into the reservoir, it had about a quarter inch of rust in it! So, I replaced redid the calipers, replaced one and also replaced the actuator. As far as bleeding, you do it just like a car. You'll need to remove the brackets around your "emergency" brake on the trailer so you can move the actuator, and pump and bleed just like a car. Always do the rear first and work your way forward. Also, if you don't have someone to help and actually it's easier, there is a one man bleeder which consists of a hose that goes to the bleeder valve and a bottle , you pump until the line is clear of bubbles and then move onto the next.  It works very well....good luck! With the new calipers you should be good to go for some time. 
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