RINKER FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQ)
LaRea
Member, Moderator Posts: 7,742 mod
This FAQ list is part of the Rinker Owners Club forum, and was written by Rinker owners for Rinker owners. If you have a question about your Rinker, you should:
1) Check this FAQ first.
2) Then search the forum’s extensive archives to see if your question has already been answered. Just click the “Search” box in the upper right corner, and enter key words or phrases as you would for a Google search. Examples:
"coffee maker" removal
speaker -replace
3) If you still have questions, create a new discussion. Be sure to select the right category (so we don’t end up talking about carpet in the generator forum) and provide relevant background information (year and model of boat, type of engine, and anything specific to your boat).
CONTENTS
Post edited by LaRea on
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Comments
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How do I contact Rinker?
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The members of this forum enjoy helping fellow Rinker owners, which makes the forum a fantastic resource for answering questions about your boat. Read this FAQ, then search the forum, then feel free to ask questions. If we can’t help you, the best way to contact Rinker is by email: customerservice@rinkerboats.com
(Kudos to Rinker for hosting the forum, and to the moderators for their work maintaining it.)
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My Mercruiser engine alarm is beeping. What does it mean?
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If it is a constant-tone alarm, the most common cause is overheating. For steady beeping, check the outdrive lube reservoir (on top of the engine). If it is a double-beep once per minute, it could be either the Idle Air Controller (IAC) or a wiring fault. For a more detailed list of alarms and fault codes, including a formatted copy suitable for printing, look here:
http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/1042/encountering-faults-check-this-out
For a complete list of alarms and faults including detailed troubleshooting guides, buy or download a copy of Mercruiser Service Manual 33 (big block engines) or Mercruiser Service Manual 36 (most other engines).
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Where can I find an owner’s manual for my Rinker?
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Unlike car manufacturers, builders of recreational boats generally do not produce detailed model-specific owner manuals. Instead, they issue a generic user manual, and provide individual OEM manuals for all of the subsystems such as engines, generators, appliances and air conditioners.
For the generic manuals, see the links at the bottom of this page:
http://www.rinkerboats.com/contact-us
In some cases, model-specific wiring schematics are available directly from Rinker upon request. Contact Rinker via email: customerservice@rinkerboats.com
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How can I find replacement parts for my Rinker?
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For individual subsystems such as engines, generators, appliances, electronics or air conditioners, parts are available directly from the subsystem manufacturer or aftermarket suppliers. Rinker does not sell those items.
For Rinker-specific parts such as logo decals, seat cushions, hand rails, helm panels, radar arches, fuel tanks and other items not sold elsewhere, a good place to check is the marine surplus store Great Lakes Skipper (http://www.greatlakesskipper.com). If you don’t find it there, contact Rinker by email: customerservice@rinkerboats.com
Mercruiser engine parts: available from many places; http://www.boats.net has a good parts identifier.
Canvas: On this forum, try contacting TJ (@boattech01), or search for the thread “Rinker canvas”.
Cupholders, transom showers and other miscellaneous parts: try http://www.replacementboatparts.com
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How often should I change the impeller in my water pump?
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Most boaters replace impellers every two years as a routine maintenance item. It is possible for impellers to last longer. However, an engine with a failed impeller will overheat within minutes and could leave you stranded or even damage the engine. That is why most people do not risk using impellers longer than two years.
If you run an engine with no water flow, it can destroy an impeller in just a few minutes. Impellers can also fail prematurely if the water pump ingests a lot of sand or mud.
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If my battery is dead, how can I open the hatch to the engine room?
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You will need a 12-Volt car battery or jump starter. Find the battery switch panel located in the cockpit, typically near the transom door. You should see two terminal posts marked “Hatch Override”. Each post is covered by a plastic cover that looks like a wire nut. If you connect a 12-Volt battery to these posts, the hatch will move either up or down depending on which wire you connect to which post. To check the polarity, BRIEFLY touch the battery wires to the posts. If the hatch does not go up right away, reverse the wires.
If that does not work, you can open the hatch manually. You have to release the pin that holds the top of the actuator to the underside of the hatch. That means you need to get your arm into the engine room far enough to reach the pin. Most boats have a table mount in the floor in the middle of the hatch. Remove the mount, cut a slit in the insulation, and reach in to pull the pin. Then get 2-3 strong helpers to manually pull the hatch up, but be aware the hatch could cause severe injury if dropped. If your boat’s engine hatch has an integral storage locker, you might need to empty it first.
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What is the best battery for my boat?
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Typical Rinkers have two types of batteries, so it is important to choose the right type. Cranking batteries are used to start the engines and generator. Deep-cycle batteries are used as “house” batteries to run refrigerators and electronics while anchored.
The other determining factor is size. Battery size is defined by the “group number”. In general, a larger group number indicates a battery that is larger and has a higher capacity. Most Rinker cruisers use Group 27 batteries for starters, and Group 31 batteries for house.
Resources for learning more about batteries:
Boat Battery Basics: http://www.yachtsurvey.com/boat_battery_basics.htm
Deep Cycle Battery FAQ: http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm
Battery sizes: http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/bci-battery-group-sizes.html
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How do my battery switches work?
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First of all – do not change switch positions with the engine(s) running.
For single-engine boats, you probably have a rotary battery selector switch marked “OFF”, “1”, “2” and “ALL”. Use “1” or “2” for normal operation. The only time you should use “ALL” is temporarily if you have a dead battery and need to start the engine. The “ALL” position gangs the two batteries together so you can try to start the engine. However, the alternator might NOT charge both batteries in the “ALL” position. After starting the engine on “ALL”, turn the switch back to “1” or “2”. Visit this link for more details:
http://www.boattest.com/Resources/view_news.aspx?NewsID=3084
For twin-engine boats, you probably have two switches marked “OFF”, “ON” and two positions marked “EMERGENCY START ONLY”. Use “ON” for normal operation. The only time you should use “EMERGENCY” is temporarily if you have a dead battery and need to start the engine.
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I broke the latch on the transom door. Where can I find another one?
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Many Rinkers use a Perko barrel bolt latch on the transom door. The latch will break if you raise the engine hatch without first opening the transom door. The most common size, available from many online retailers for $30 to $40, is: Perko 947DP3CHR, size 5-1/4" X 1-7/16"
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How can I verify that my Fireboy fire suppression system is wired correctly?
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Many gas-powered cruising boats, including Rinkers, are equipped with a Fireboy automatic fire suppression system in the engine room. A key feature is that the system automatically disables the engine room ventilation fans (blowers) in case of a fire. However, this feature might not work if the system was installed wrong, or if the wiring has been damaged. Also, it is possible that the indicator light at the helm might not work correctly because of damaged wiring.
To check it, turn on the ignition, and verify that the Fireboy indicator light at the helm is on. Turn on the blowers. Next, find the red fire extinguisher bottle in the engine room, and unplug one of the wires from the sensor at the top. The indicator light should turn off, and the blowers should stop. If that does not happen, your system is not set up correctly.
Look here for details:
http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/2589/attention-all-rinker-owners-with-an-automatic-fire-extinguisher-system/p1
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Where can I buy canvas for my Rinker?
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Many forum members have bought OEM canvas from TJ Bartley (@boattech01). Send TJ a private message, or check this discussion:
http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/1105/rinker-canvas#latest
Great Lakes Skipper (http://www.greatlakesskipper.com) carries a limited selection of OEM canvas. Any local boat canvas shop can fabricate custom canvas, and they can include options such as upgraded window material. They can also install the snaps on your OEM canvas to match the snap locations on your boat.
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How should I adjust my trim tabs and outdrive trim?
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For boats with outdrives, adjusting the outdrive trim (drive position) and trim tabs can give you a free improvement of 5-10% in speed or fuel economy, so it’s worth learning how to do it. Trim tabs can also level your boat and give you more control in certain conditions.
The exact settings are different for every boat because they depend on hull shape, power, load and other factors. In general, for a given throttle setting, the boat is properly trimmed when you are going the maximum speed you can achieve without “porpoising” (bow bouncing up and down). Here’s how to find your boat’s sweet spot:
First, bring the boat to a comfortable cruise speed with the outdrives all the way down, and trim tabs fully retracted (“bow up”). Note your speed and RPMs. Next, start trimming the drives up a little bit at a time without changing the throttle setting. You should find that as you raise the outdrives, your speed will go up slightly. Continue slowly raising the drives until you hear the propellers start to ventilate (RPMs rise quickly, but the boat slows down). Ventilation is the sign that your drives are too far up, and you should move them back down slightly. Find the drive position that gives you the highest speed. You will probably be going 2-3 mph faster than when you started.
At that point, you might find that the boat is porpoising. There are two ways to reduce porpoising: put the trim tabs down slightly, or move the outdrives down slightly, or both. Experiment until you find the setting that eliminates porpoising without slowing the boat too much. That is your boat’s sweet spot.
With practice, you can easily trim the boat in 10-15 seconds every time you get on plane.
Read this thread for information on adjusting trim tabs:
http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/3356/trim-tabs-101
See this thread for discussions about adjusting outdrive trim and trim tabs together:
http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/2829/trim-tabs-or-trim-outdrives/p1
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How can I buy a replacement key for my cabin door?
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Most Rinkers use door locks by Mobella. Go inside the cabin, lock the door, and read the three-digit code on the back of the lock. That is your key code. Some Rinker owners have used the following online vendor:
http://mobellakeys.com/products/Mobella_900.htm
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I have water leaking into my boat. How can I find the source?
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It is common for boats to have small amounts of water in the bilge from rain, spray, boat-washing or minor leaks (especially in older boats). If your bilge pump runs more than once a day, or if you have ANY water entering the cabin, find and eliminate the source.
First, try to determine whether the water is fresh water or raw water (sea water or river water).
Typical sources for raw water leaks:
* Leaking transom assembly
* Trim tab cables or other thru-hull fittings
* Loose hose fittings
- AC pump
- Raw-water supply for generator or head
Typical sources for fresh water leaks:
* Boat plumbing
- Loose fittings on water hoses
- Water heater
* Air conditioner drip pan
* Rain water
- Leaking seals on hatches and ports
- Leaking rub rails
- Leaking handrail stanchions
- Clogged drain holes in anchor locker
- Leaking fittings on radar arch
- (very rarely) Damaged hull
Another important clue is: When does the leak occur? Some leaks are constant. Others might occur only after heavy rain, or when the boat is on plane, or when the plumbing gets used.
To find leaky fittings, look for a discolored drip trail, or sprinkle on some talcum powder and look for a water trail.
Finding rain water leaks can be especially hard because the entry point might be far away from where you actually find the water. One approach is to have a helper spray the boat from outside with a hose while you look inside with a flashlight. Another method is to pressurize the cabin and apply soap on the outside to make air bubbles at the leak, as described here: http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/comment/2875
Another good thread on leaks: http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/comment/8574
Here’s a David Pascoe article on fixing leaks: http://www.yachtsurvey.com/dealing_with_leaks.htm
Info on leaking transom assemblies: http://www.sterndrives.com/water_leaking_in_transom.html
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Where can I find an owner’s manual for my Rinker?
====================
Unlike car manufacturers, builders of recreational boats generally do not produce detailed model-specific owner manuals. Instead, they issue a generic user manual, and provide individual OEM manuals for all of the subsystems such as engines, generators, appliances and air conditioners.
For the generic manual, check the bottom of the page at this link:
http://www.rinkerboats.com/contact-us
In some cases, model-specific wiring schematics are available directly from Rinker upon request. Contact Rinker via email: Customerservice@rinkerboats.com