Hooking up smart craft to Lowrance HDS 7 touch.
MarkB
Member Posts: 3,981 ✭✭✭✭✭
I have a smart craft system tach and a lowrance hds 7 touch. The hds has smart craft integration but the i instructions says via a NMEA 2000 network.
Here's my question. If I have the smart craft gauge does that mean the network is installed already. I know if I want to add more smart craft gauges then I just plug into the back of the system gauge. So can't I just plug the hds into the smart craft gauge as well as it's already a digital signal?
If not what does it take to get a NMEA 2000 network in?
Here's my question. If I have the smart craft gauge does that mean the network is installed already. I know if I want to add more smart craft gauges then I just plug into the back of the system gauge. So can't I just plug the hds into the smart craft gauge as well as it's already a digital signal?
If not what does it take to get a NMEA 2000 network in?
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
Comments
It works great, except for one problem. The gateway sends data packets for *every* sensor supported by SmartCraft, even if the sensor isn't actually installed. That can cause problems depending on what equipment is on your network. For example, my engines don't have rudder sensors, so the gateway sends empty data for the rudder sensor. Unfortunately, those packets interfere with my auto-pilot's rudder sensor, which means I can't connect the gateway to my main network.
SmartCraft supports a bunch of sensors including speed, temperature, tank levels and outdrive trim. Some of them might affect how your other systems display data.
So the gateway plugs into the back of the system tach gauge? Do I also need to install the NMEA network or does that gateway allow me to directly plug into the hds?
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
The gateway plugs into the SmartCraft multi-port junction box, not the gauge. If you don't have a spare SmartCraft port, you'd need to add another junction box.
The NMEA network would be pretty simple - just the gateway and hds. Lemme get back to you later with some details.
Having the engine info on the GPS is nice, but I opted for the separate display so I didn't have to flip back and forth. My new dash has the 2 (GPS and VV) side by side where the spedo and tachs used to be.
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
MarkB, I think your N2K network might be as simple as this:
male terminator
tee for the gateway
tee with a spur cable to the Lowrance
female terminator
The gateway kit includes a tee fitting. You'd need to buy a tee, two terminators and a cable long enough to reach the Lowrance. (The second tee would plug directly into the first one.)
You might need a NMEA2000 backbone if you don't have one already. That's the cable arrangement that gets 12v fed to it.
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
The parts along the bottom (two terminators and two tees) are the N2K backbone. You need terminators on both ends, so one male and one female. You can buy from any manufacturer as long as it's NMEA 2000.
This kit appears to have everything you need:
http://www.thegpsstore.com/Navico-NMEA-2000-Starter-Kit-P2684.aspx
It also includes a power cable in case you add a component in the future that needs to get 12V power from the N2K network.
Here's a kit that has everything you need:
http://www.thegpsstore.com/Navico-NMEA-2000-Starter-Kit-P2684.aspx
It also has a power cable, which might be useful in the future if you add another N2K component that needs to get 12V power from the network.
Here's a kit that has everything you need:
www.thegpsstore.com/Navico-NMEA-2000-Starter-Kit-P2684.aspx
It also has a power cable, which might be useful in the future if you add another N2K component that needs to get 12V power from the network.
There's a starter kit that has everything you need on thegpsstore.com. Search for:
Navico-NMEA-2000-Starter-Kit-P2684
The kit also has a power cable, which might be useful in the future if you add another N2K component that needs to get 12V power from the network.