He has not sealed the sending unit properly. Gas leans towards the sending unit and it comes through the screw holes on the nozel. He needs to use a special sealant on the screws to ensure it is properly sealed and won't leak. Have a close look. If I'm correct, call him back to fix it.
Do not start your engine. You have a perfect condition for an explosion. In fact I'd even consider cutting the electricity.
Even though everything in your bilge should be marine quality ignition protected you can not be sure. I agree with Mark this must be immediately rectified and I'd shut everything off except my bilge pumps.
All good advice from others above. I've got some experience in this area. Yes, don't start the engine. Keep anything that might generate a spark well away from your boat. Assuming all you have are light residual fumes and NO LIQUID GASOLINE, even "weeping" from anywhere in the bilge, around the engine or tank, and with a high capacity fire extinguisher handy, I would do the following:
1) Disconnect any shore power connection at the outlet on land, not on the boat 2) Turn on bilge blower for a good half hour and do nothing else. 3) Remove table base on the hatch, pull the pin on the hatch ram, disconnect ram and fully open it by hand (with a friend) so the entire engine compartment is open to the sky. 4) Place a household fan at least four feet away from the hatch opening and turn it on high, blowing fresh air across the top of the engine compartment. 5) Use a long handled brush and detergent to give the insides surfaces of the bilge another thorough scrubbing, then wipe it down with shop towels. Be careful around wiring and other components. 6) Leave the bilge blower and household fan blowing for a few more hours. The blower will quit after a while when your battery runs down. Add another fan if you have one. 7) Remove and replace the engine bilge pump with a new one.
All points from Andy are great advice - particularly disconnecting the shore power from the shore power pedestal first. BTW, I'm sure everyone on here knows that's the proper way to disconnect shore power from your boat all of the time because it prevents scorching of your boat's shore power pins and prevents a live end from falling into the water. How many times have I seen boaters disconnect from their boat first.....
The gas smell is gone...Used Starbrite bilge cleaner and followed up with Simple Green Lemon...left hatch open most of the time and left blower on while running
Why replace the bilge pump? If it didn't pump straight gas it should be OK. I'd think that it can be cleaned of residual fuel (if any) and reinstalled.
Comments
Do not start your engine. You have a perfect condition for an explosion. In fact I'd even consider cutting the electricity.
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
1) Disconnect any shore power connection at the outlet on land, not on the boat
2) Turn on bilge blower for a good half hour and do nothing else.
3) Remove table base on the hatch, pull the pin on the hatch ram, disconnect ram and fully open it by hand (with a friend) so the entire engine compartment is open to the sky.
4) Place a household fan at least four feet away from the hatch opening and turn it on high, blowing fresh air across the top of the engine compartment.
5) Use a long handled brush and detergent to give the insides surfaces of the bilge another thorough scrubbing, then wipe it down with shop towels. Be careful around wiring and other components.
6) Leave the bilge blower and household fan blowing for a few more hours. The blower will quit after a while when your battery runs down. Add another fan if you have one.
7) Remove and replace the engine bilge pump with a new one.
Andy
I'd think that it can be cleaned of residual fuel (if any) and reinstalled.
Andy