Stern Drives Polished Right

Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭

This post is me trying to get out of the dog house (where I often find myself). The Admiral saw a post I made showing our drives with some sc*m on them. She likes to clean them and I took pictures before she had cleaned and polished them - so I heard about it! Today, while I was putting the second coat of wax from the waterline to the first hull mold line, she cleaned and polished the drives. Great job, awesome Admiral! BTW, these drives have spent two summers (6 months each time) in the water. Yes, it's fresh water but a lot of scum does attach to them. The fact that the Admiral cleans and polishes them impeccably and I touch-up any scratches with Mercury OEM paint really helps. As well, you might note that there are new anodes installed. Magnesium for fresh water. I put new ones on every year. I figure If I do all of this my drives will look like this for many years. As mark B. said, It's all about maintenance.....and as I say - you can do some work now or pay a LOT later! :-) P.S. .....anyone else got boat pics to share? I could look at them all day!

Post edited by Michael T on

Comments

  • halifax212halifax212 Member Posts: 553 ✭✭✭
    MT, is the gloss from fresh spray paint or waxing?. I am starting my winterizing this week and aside from washing the drive and the occasional spot touch up I have never detailed the outdrive. What was the process? I will give it a go this year .  Go Jays!!
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    MT, so how much value has your boat lost in 2 years? 
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2015
    @Halifax 212 that gloss is from cleaning and waxing not re-painting! The drives are gently power washed by the marina with a soapy mixture to remove most of the scum but a lot remains. The Admiral then gets to work with Meguiars Flagship Wax (the black bottle) and a bunch of fresh rags which really removes the remaining scum and leaves that shine. I touch-up any chips and scrapes - particularly around the bolts that hold the drive on as the techs use power tools to remove the bolts and scratches happen. I also spray Mercury OEM Phantom black (a marine lacquer) onto a small "hobby-type" paint brush and run it along the leading and bottom edges of the skeg. If I find a chip - and I found two this year - likely from removing and re-installing the drives, I sand them with automotive grade very fine cloth backed sandpaper. To remove the sanding debris I spray some of the black paint on a cloth and wipe the area. This removes debris and any wax and preps it to receive the primer. I put a dab of Mercury primer on the sanded area with a mini hobby brush, let it dry then the phantom black goes on.  If I have to spray the tip of a skeg I sand as needed, wipe off with a rag that has some paint on it, spray some primer on it, wait a few hours if the sun is on it, then spray a couple of light coats of Mercury OEM Phantom Black. Doing this my drives will look new for many years. Big $$$$ in those drives. The painting touch-ups I do takes maybe 20 minutes a drive. The Admiral spends about 30 minutes a drive cleaning and waxing!
    Post edited by Michael T on
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2015
    It costs about 35% more to bring a US built new boat into Canada at the moment, due to currency differences. Canadian boats are therefore a bargain for Americans looking for a good deal on, mostly, fresh water boats.
    Post edited by Michael T on
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Using The Works toilet bowl cleaner will remove the scum from the drives and make life easier to polish/wax.  Pour it on straight then rinse. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    Another way to keep 'em clean is on a lift! :-)  Nicely waxed all year long.  (yep, someone had to be in the crowd)....or of course just replace them every now and then!  new drive last year and other one new this year :-(   old housings looked like new...

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @DI. I sure miss the boat lift I had for 20 years. After I had it a few years they came out with a remote. That was nice! Just click as you were approaching, down it went and just park her and press up! No scum on the hulls or drives and I could work on the drives from a dinghy!
  • BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭
    WOW nice!! Ive major cleaning and polishing to do on mine this fall and spring it needs a real good going over.  Very poor detailing was done before I bought it. 
    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @BMXZ. Taking care of your drives not only saves huge money - once a drive starts to go it can be a pretty fast process, if not halted. It's best to stay ahead of it. Once you get it detailed to the level you want it, cleaning it up every year at haul out is much easier. Also having a drive that is not all covered in crud has to be better for acceleration and mileage!
  • BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭
    Yes I'm a maintenance freak so have lots to do this winter. It's gotta be perfect when it goes back in in the spring. 
    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Can you yank a drive on a lift?
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    Handy, I sure wouldn't want to, but yes it could be done I suppose.  I change the drive lube and can buff the hull as well as any routine maintenance.  Removing outdrive on a raft is where I draw the line.  I've dropped enough tools, I wouldn't want an outdrive to join them.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2015

    @ H342 Do you mean on a lift over the water like DIs and mine (was) or do you mean on a lift on land? If you mean in a lift on the water I would say it depends on clearance and what you have to get under it with. A dinghy probably wouldn't work but a flat work scow might? An alpha or B1,  I could see pulling but a Blll X drive - man that's heavy!

    Post edited by Michael T on
  • halifax212halifax212 Member Posts: 553 ✭✭✭
    Thanks Michael, I will copy/paste that into my boating folder.
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I will have a wrap around dock so it would be easy to put some planks across to form a nice sturdy platform. Dinghy underneath to catch the tools :)
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Holy Cow Steve, you ARE doing everything right!
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2015
    BTW, if you are removing your B lll drive for inspection and service you might break one of the plastic shims on each side of the drive. I think these are sort of slide guides for the drive. We broke one and the PN is Quicksilver 805261A 1 Wear Pad Kit (2 pads per kit R & L side of drive.
    Post edited by Michael T on
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    They are B2s  MT
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I know you have B2s Steve but yours might have the plastic wear giudes too?
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have no idea MT. Maybe Al knows
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    I am impressed, but if you can find a way to keep your props looking as good, then I'll REALLY be impressed!
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2015

    @LaRea, I was thinking of using some CLR or some other strong lime/sediment remover. I was discussing this with the Admiral when a guy working on his Regal walked over and said, sorry to interrupt but I used a strong acidic wash a few years ago on my props and had gleaming props but found out later my wash had damaged all of my prop seals. I do have a question though - why do the ss props on the Volvos seem to attract less deposits? Do they employ some special kind of special finish? 

    P.S. @LaRea - I DO hate the look of those once beautiful shiny props. The "film" that is on them is very thin but very hard, likely electro deposits from stray marina currents. I just don't know how to get it off without damaging the props or the shaft seals. Maybe some kind of ScotchBrite non-metal scrub pad? Don't want to make it worse!

    Post edited by Michael T on
  • mattiemattie Member Posts: 1,276 ✭✭✭✭
    Hey Michael, not to hijack.....but do those underwater lights work well? Factory install? Brand?
    246BR, 276BR, H310BR current
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2015

    Hey mattie, yes they work very well, we love them and get great comments. We have installed two different sets, both by the same maker, Ocean LED. The Rinker factory install were two Ocean LED Pro 3s. That's two light bars with 3 leds in each one. The factory color was blue and they are very nice. They shine out about 15 - 20 feet in fairly clear water. We got a lot of positive comments about them and the fish are mesmerized by them - as are the grand children LOL! 

    Last winter we had two Ocean LED Pro 8 Extreme Colour Changing light bars installed, by a technician at the dealership. I would say that the average boat owner could have installed them as the instruction manual was very detailed and the company tech support line is fantastic. They are certainly bigger than the factory-installed Pro 3sbecause they have 8 LEDs each. IMO they are amazing. They can be set for single color, to flash on a single color, to scroll through a rainbow of colors or to strobe through a rainbow of colors. To be fair they are expensive at about $500 each but there are many that are a lot less expensive. You may have read the review I wrote elsewhere on this forum about these lights.

    The good news Mattie is that there are so many different underwater LEDs now available of different colors, different capabilities, different installation techniques and different price points that there is a huge choice. I have seen many different types for sale on eBay and Amazon or on dealer specials like from Defender Marine.

    There are two features that I look for on any underwater LED lights: First, I want them to use as little power as possible - so I suggest you check their power draw in amps. Second, I'm too timid to drill a 2" or 3" hole through my hull for the big round-type underwater LED lights - so I bought the ones that only need a 1/2" hole to run the wiring through.

    Good luck with your hunt. If you put some in, please post pictures!

  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    The prop scaling is ugly, and I assume it also steals some efficiency because of the rough texture.  

    The only way I've found to remove it is with a coarse wire brush on an electric drill.  It's hard work.  It makes them look beautiful again, but only for a month or two.  

    I've tried various chemicals without success.  There's a paint product on the market ... it's super-expensive, so I've never tried it.
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2015
    @LaRea I've seen the paint product too, actually a couple of them - LanoCoat, PaopArmor, Trilux 33. I have been told by a tech who used them first hand that some - the ones that come as a "paste" and have to be heated and sprayed, rolled or as a last resort brushed-on, are very hard to apply. The sprays not as hard to apply, I'm told. When I "googled" the literature on a few of them I could see that it was probably a process for a technician experienced with the process.
    Post edited by Michael T on
  • mattiemattie Member Posts: 1,276 ✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2015
    "Hey mattie, yes they work very well, we love them and get great comments. We have installed two different sets, both by the same maker, Ocean LED."

    Thanks Michael for the Ocean LED idea. Easy to do - especially since someone has already researched/used the product.

    mattie
    246BR, 276BR, H310BR current
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2015
    @Mattie - Don't forget to look at some other vendors too, for price comparisons. West Marine and Defender Marine often have decent underwater LED lights for less. IMO the Ocean LEDs are industry leaders with by far the most available features in this field - but - you also pay for that!
    Post edited by Michael T on
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Use The Works toilet bowl cleaner on the SS props. If you are worried about the seals, do it when you have the props off to regrease the splines.  Supposed to do that annually anyways. 

    Remember: NEVER use a steel brush on SS. You will embed iron on the surface and accelerate corrosion. Brass only or SS. The latter might make a mess though. The only way to clean the iron off is to passivate them. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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