Bravo III winterizing

kingsqueenkingsqueen Member Posts: 10
Hi.
How should I winterize my bravo III outdrives? My boat is fresh water cooled thru hull system.
I was told it's a good idea to remove from boat and store inside for winter. This seems to be a lot of work and has to be another way to protect. Thanks again!

Comments

  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,663 mod
    Removing them is probably best, but most people (as I've always done with my B-2s and B-3s I used to have) is to use ear muffs and run pink antifreeze thru them and the risers/manifolds.  Fresh water cooled makes it easier and you may also have an air pump that you can use to pump most of the water out first.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,756 mod
    I agree it would be great to store the outdrives in a freeze-protected area, but they are designed to be easily winterized.  Find somebody who has done it before, and bribe them to show you how it's done.  
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The big downside to pulling the drives off for the winter is now all the exposed shift cable, bearing, etc. water has strange ways of working into that stuff if exposed to weather. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2015

    II agree100% with BD and LaRea. Winterize them yourself, if you have a lift or strong back! Or, have it done. I would never leave them off - the shaft input is exposed, trim rams would have to be tied up, both faces (the drive and the transom assembly) would be left open etc. I would however make sure I either put my drives all the way down then just "tapped" the switch to take the pressure off the hoses - my first choice or use the Mercruiser "plastic" trim ram blocks to take the weight off the trim pump(s) and then, again, tap the switch.....but that's second choice.

    @kingsqueen - As for winterizing, change anodes, remove drives, use alignment tool to check alignment, change all gear lube, lubricate shaft and splines (after cleaning) check the condition of the coupling, check bellows and shift cable, grease gimbal (if applicable) lubricate and install new O ring seals, check plastic drive glides and replace if required, put blue thread ease on bolts and reinstall. Remove props and clean and grease shafts. Check drives for chips/scratches and prime and paint as required, check that all wires are on Mercathode system and its plastic housing has not been damaged, top-up drive lube in Spring after running a bit. Have I missed anything?

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