Paint bubbling and cracking on radar arch

Peg_O_My_HeartPeg_O_My_Heart Ottawa, ILPosts: 14Member ✭✭
I have a 2002 Rinker FV 310.  Paint on the radar arch is bubbling and cracking.  I have seen other posts on this forum, but not a sure solution that has been successfully accomplished.

I would like to spot repair the areas in the spring.  While doing that, I would reattach all the screws and such and caulk them to prevent water getting in, which I believe is one reason the paint is bubbling in the first place.

I would like to hear from anyone who has tried this or has ideas on how to get it done.  My overall goal for this project would be to keep as much water out of the boat as possible when the camper top is up.

Thanks!

Comments

  • Michael TMichael T Posts: 6,664Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited December 2015


    @Peg....regarding caulking. I suggest that you caulk the upper end of your arch support where it meets the hull and the two sides but not the bottom. When talking about this with Randy Rinker he said to NOT caulk the lower end of the arch, facing the stern or I'd trap water inside the arch and create corrosion and fiberglass hull de-lamination.

    I'll see if I can find the pictures I sent to Rinker to make sure I hadn't voided my warranty. Because my boat was an EC 360, the hard top was shipped separately and was installed at the dealer. The dealer did not caulk the hard top to hull joint, so I did it after consulting with Randy. Pics may be coming!

    Regarding arch touch-ups, I watched one being done over several days. It was sanded, the metal was neutralized with something, a spray primer was put on and then the final coat of spray. It was done by a guy using a small compressor and mini spray gun and afterwards you could not tell where he had been painting. I talked with him and he said the biggest trick was to match the color as even the whites fade, sometimes it took him a few test tries. He also said he was lucky that the arch had not pitted so he did not have to use glazing putty. He did say that it was important to neutralize the surface "corrosion" on the aluminum, which presents as a white chalky dust, I guess like efflorescence?

    Found the pictures of how Randy Rinker said to caulk the hard top to hull joint to maintain warranty - you'll note the bottom edge (down slope) towards the stern has been left un-caulked to permit water/condensation to run out.....Good Luck!

    Post edited by Michael T on
  • luckydogluckydog Ruskin, Fl.Posts: 316Member ✭✭✭

    We had the same problem on our 312, because there aluminum it apparently happens I was told the issue was the stainless steel fasteners being in contact with the aluminum arch. We had a company fix it for us at a cost of $400.00 with the repaint. When I reinstalled all the Bimini snaps on my arch I applied tefjel to all the threads generously installed nylon washers never had problem since

  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Annapolis, MDPosts: 5,356Member, Moderator mod
    I agree that the problem was they used SS fasteners with the aluminum arch. As far as the water in the bottom of the arch, that was to solve the problem of cracking along the bottom they used to have.  When water got in there, it had nowhere to go and would freeze in the winter and crack the bottom of the arch.  A lot of people would drill a small hole in the bottom of the arch to allow proper drainage.  I'm not sure removing caulking would help on all boats, most where closed on the bottom (except the holes where bolts went thru).

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • bella-vitabella-vita Buffalo NYPosts: 321Member ✭✭✭
    I was gonna drill hole in bottom of my arch ,as I also have same trouble with the cracking and chipping of the paint near bottom of arch.
    2002 Rinker FV 342
  • Michael TMichael T Posts: 6,664Member ✭✭✭✭✭

    @bella-vita ;does your arch fit that tight to the hull - isn't there even a small a gap between the two?

  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 5,388Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    one side of my arch where you grab it with your hand/cut out for hand, the paint is coming off....I don't see any other issues like here. It must be a very thin gelcoat on the arch and I plan on touching it up at some point.....I have a very long list!
  • Michael TMichael T Posts: 6,664Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Ras,  I "think" it's paint on the arch. When the hard top of my 2014 EC 360 had to be touched-up in a couple of places because of a couple of shipping scratches - I'm 99.9% sure the guy who did it (and btw he specializes in gel coat spraying and fiberglass repairs) said he had to paint it as it was an aluminum arch that had it be painted. Anyway whetever he did I can't find the spots.
  • luckydogluckydog Ruskin, Fl.Posts: 316Member ✭✭✭

    When our was dune they painted on the arch and we couldn’t tell the difference

  • Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Pittsburgh, PAPosts: 3,939Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    The arches are painted. It would be nice to know the color codes. I remember someone on the old forum stated that it was Ford white for the newer EC's.
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
  • bella-vitabella-vita Buffalo NYPosts: 321Member ✭✭✭
    @Michael T I don't think that I have any gap between the bottom of the arch.its put away for winter inside so I'll have to put it on my list of things to do in the spring.
    2002 Rinker FV 342
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 5,388Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    YZ is the paint code for the "fleet" white trucks for years...that also makes sense and it is a very thin coating, have not looked into it to much....I'd swear mine is made of wood with glass over it and then painted perhaps...mine is an 05.
Sign In or Register to comment.