Cap and rotor

frenchship

Anybody know if those are really marine approved......

FITS ALL MERCRUISER V8 FLAT VORTEC CAP DISTRIBUTORS 
AND HIGH PERFORMANCE MARINE APPLICATIONS!

HIGH QUALITY MARINE CAP HAS BRASS SCREW HOLE RETAINERS THAT 
WONT BREAK WHEN TIGHTED!  

THESE ARE HIGHEST QUALITY BRASS CAP + ROTOR KITS AVAILABLE!

Also includes new cap + rotor mounting screws

Some of our feedback on these kits - Buy with confidence!
"Parts were exact fit and best price we found!"

"Exact fit and better than the old cap with aluminum terminals. Fast shipping""Received the item as described and fast delivery""As described good seller"

THESE ARE SPECIAL MADE FOR MARINE APPLICATIONS  
ALL BRASS MARINE CONTACTS - BRASS SCREW STUDS SLEEVES TOO!

LATE MODEL V8 ALPHA /BRAVO 350 - MAG 5.0L & MX 6.2L

FOR 2001 AND NEWER - HIGH PERFORMANCE 

Replaces all Mercruiser Cap and Rotor Kits 8M0061335 8M0060495 898253T29

 Distributor Cap & 8M6001106 / 898253T22 Rotor 884790 / 898253013

212rowboat

I could easily be wrong, but other than wanting  brass, it isn't required... What is required are capped breathers, and you can't see it in that pic... It's on the backside.  

andyd

"WONT BREAK WHEN TIGHTED!"

Not sure about the cap & rotor, but the punctuation & grammar is certainly lacking.

Andy

Liberty44140

French, did you end up buying and using these? I just came across the same seller and was thinking of buying these from them. 

frenchship

No, I went with Sierra since I could not get any reviews on their product.

Liberty44140

Thanks. Probably will do the same. 

Liberty44140

And I did buy the same - Sierra, $61 a kit from wholesale marine. Any tips or tricks to changing the cap and rotor? I understand how crucial it is to get the wires replaced correctly. Anything else to keep in mind when removing and replacing screws? This is my first cap and rotor.

randy56

easy, you can do it take your time. 

skennelly

Label the wires before you take them off the old...or transfer them one by one to the new cap.

Not a big deal at all.

Liberty44140

Thanks guys. I also found this how to video online last night that put my mind at ease:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mg9m46hNThg

Willhound

Be careful to not over tighten the screws or you'll crack the cap.

Liberty44140

Thanks! I heard something about the existing screws not coming out and having to break and re tap. No concern? Also just learned about the little white piece of foam in the throttle body that is the iac muffler so I’m replacing those too. 

randy56

Just a thought, take before pictures to refer back to.

reneechris14

The screws for the rotor smaller then the cap so make sure you have your glass because they look the same to this old man. I  hold  the new cap by the old cap transfer wires then take old cap off.

Liberty44140

Thanks guys! Hope to tackle on Saturday 

Liberty44140

Executed today, not bad, took this first timer 1 hour to do both engines. I used tape to number each wire. Ended up re using the screws holding the cap in as the new screws were a little different thread and I would have needed to really work the new screws to get them all the way in. Didn’t want to crack the plastic.

Here are pics of the old cap. This is not oem, is it? Some corrosion on the points underneath:

Michael T

Correction - sorry this post should have been addressed to @Liberty44140: Wow!...good call - it sure was time to change that cap. Sometimes mild pitting can be sanded a pit but that cap was to faaaar gone!

Liberty44140

Thanks MT. By the way, the new cap is secure, can’t  pull up and down on the screws or anything, but the whole unit has a little give, like a slight rock back and forth on both engines. Normal? It’s not like a water pump that has Zero give 

Michael T

First, IMO it is important to have the distributor cap tight while being careful not to over tighten as the bakelite cap can crack. @Liberty44140 ....when you say there is play do you mean the distributor shaft has play? I believe there are specified tolerances for play but do not know what they are. I bet @212rowboat knows that "off the top of his head"!

Liberty44140

No the shaft does not have play and there is no up and down sliding on the screws. The screws are tight but not too tight, I hand tightened with a straight driver and they don’t spin, screws are snug. It’s just that when I grab one side of the cap, there is a slight abount of give up and down if I push and pull to make sure it’s snug. No cracking, no sliding, no noise, just a very slight give. Honestly I’m not surprised since all of the pieces are plastic and only two screws hold it in, feels totally normal, but wanted to make sure with you all that a slight give on these plastic parts is normal. Thanks 

Liberty44140

So this shows perfectly what I am talking about. After he re installs the cap he plugs in the wires and you can see at 3 min, 50 sec in to the video he plugs the wire in to the cap and the cap rocks ever so slightly. Must be normal but check it out:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mg9m46hNThg

randy56

Good catch, those were shot,  engine's will preform better.