Inverter System
I am looking into getting an inverter for my boat so late at night I don't have to run generator to watch TV ETC (if rafted up). I have been researching for a while now and think I have only made this a more complicated decision. I have a built in generator and only 1 standard house battery (I have to look to see exact type). I want to run TV's, DVD, PS4, phone charger ETC. for a few hours at a time without generator. Also on the 24V side same house battery system would be 2 refrigerators that need to run all day and the rest of the standard things lights ETC.
I don't want to run extension cords around the boat so I think I am looking at an inverter hard wired to outlet circuits and adding batteries or maybe one of these inverter combos with ION battery's.
I don't have a ton of room for battery's, I calculated my draw except for the 24V items refrigerators ETC. any idea?
I will not run AC, stove or microwave on inverter.
2004 Cruisers Yachts 320 W/6.2L I/B's
Boat Name- Anchor Management, Mayo MD
Comments
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
IMO @frenchship and @MarkB have nailed it.
So, first I think you should only have a 110v/12v system. I have not heard of - on small cruisers - mixed 12 and 24 volt systems. Of course I am surprised by my lack of knowledge every day! LOL
As a rule you can calculate the amount of battery Amp Hour support that you will need by this formula: the inverter should have access to a battery bank that has at least 25% Amp Hours as the inverter is rated in watts. So if you wanted to install a 1000w inverter you should have 250 Amp Hours of house batteries available.
I looked at this for my EC 360 and ruled it out. Instead, I have 3 Series 31 AGM batteries, each with 105 Amp Hours rating. That's a total of 315 amp hours. So for that beast of a house battery system I should only install a slightly bigger than 1000w inverter. Yes, that would run a microwave by itself and a few other things by themselves but not a number of things at once and the draw on the batteries would be significant.
I have friends who don't follow this rule but they definitely reduce the life of their batteries, suffer shut downs and definitely put some of their electronics at risk with unclean power and voltage swings.
If you really want to do this I would look at Thin Plate Pure Lead AGM Batteries. Their Amp Hours will be the same as Series 31 AGMs but they will re-charge using your generator or alternator 300% faster than any battery and can be deep discharged 400+ times at 80% of their rating.
FWIW, in my case I have 3 series 31 AGMs wired together properly. They will run my two fridges at full while cruising along at low speeds (like idle) as well as a 12v T.V. - no problem. They will power two fridges overnight on the hook as well as a cabin fan and the odd use of lights to go to the head and flush the head. They re-charge quickly the next morning by using either the generator or if the boat is up on plane and the alternator is spinning! This system could meet your needs as you have defined them but not all of the equipment you mention, at once. You'd have to choose.
BTW ll If you wire into your boat's system, particularly with higher amperage wiring for higher amperage loads I would use tinned marine wire and I would definitely have a marine tech certified in wiring sign off on my work for safety and insurance reasons.
Inverters will work fine, particularly pure sine inverters, for your electronics..... but you don't get a magic bullet with them and there is no "free" electricity. Your batteries will pay for your 110v power for sure.
So, do you actually want an inverter or maybe 3 Series 31 AGMs or even better 3 Thin Plate Pure Lead AGMs .....and to complicate matters a bit more, will your present battery charger charge batteries that have different chemistries?
This is doable if you do it right, have the room and have the money - BUT is it the way to go or is it better for you to use a few great AGM house batteries and your generator to compliment them?
Of course another way to go would be to have a small portable generator. Honda makes a great one as does Yahama. Both of their small models can be daisy chained to a second one for even more power if wanted. I believe Yahama even makes a special small model that will handle high initial "surge" loads from AC units. These small generators are compact, light, quiet and won't drink gas like your Kohler.
There are very detailed threads discussing these generators on this forum with boaters like @frenchship who have done exactly this.
Any experience with inverter combo unit like Mastervolt Combi with Ion batteries
2004 Cruisers Yachts 320 W/6.2L I/B's
Boat Name- Anchor Management, Mayo MD
in regards of your ion batteries , the original charger in your boat won't be able to charge them,toy would need a special charger for that......
Not personally but I have heard directly from boaters who have used Mastervolt systems and Mastervolt batteries that they loved them. A guy who was discussing AGM batteries with me last summer had a Mastervolt system with Mastervolt's 90 AH AGM starting batteries (two) and Mastervolt's 160 AH house batteries (two) . He said it was great. I asked him about Mastervolt's lithium ion batteries and he said they were too expensive, in his opinion, for what you got. I think he said the 12v 180 AH was around $5,000.00. If I got that right that is pretty expensive. You could run your generator forever for the cost of one battery.
If I were re-doing an older battery system I'd make sure my charger could charge AGM and AGM Thin Plate batteries. If not, I'd get a new charger. They aren't that expensive. Then I'd get a Series 31 AGM battery for each starting engine and either 2 or 3 Series 31 AGMs for house batteries depending on my room , weight allowance and budget.
That's what I did on my 360. BUT if they had been available when I bought my batteries I would have paid a bit more and gotten the Series 31 AGM Thin Plates because they have huge CCA and MCA capability and their re-charge rates are totally amazing as is their discharge cycle capability.
I never really liked inverters unless someone doesn't have a generator. Even then I'd go small portable generator before an inverter set-up. IMO inverters work great for big cruising set-ups in long distance cruising yachts or for tiny inverters to run some simple low load items.
2004 Cruisers Yachts 320 W/6.2L I/B's
Boat Name- Anchor Management, Mayo MD
It was a "rule" that electrical power companies went by for remote powered units etc. The minimum they would like to see is 20% to not overwork batteries, so you would be fine. The extra 5% was added for a safety margin. If you have 900AHs you have one h*ll of a system. IMO you are one of the few that did things correctly. Beautiful!
http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/product-inverter/2400w-12vdc-pure-sine-inverter-n-series
Go Steelers!!!
@6PS, that's good news! The following environments drop ANY wiring cable's ability to carry amps: heat proximity (engine room) and tight bundling(heavier 12v loads with wires zip **** bundled in raceways)
If my math is correct your #2 cables (OD15/32") should be able to carry 150 amps for a round trip length of circuit of up to 15 feet, by 20 feet that's down to 100 amps.
For 12 volt wiring of higher load requiring items deduct 10% voltage drop. For 12v wiring of light loads - running lights etc. deduct 3% capacity.
I looked for my wiring tables and couldn't find them but comprehensive ones are available online. For your use unless you have some pretty long runs #2 IMO is darn good. #2 has a generally accepted rating of 210 amps (minus) any deductions
BTW #1=245 amps.....1/0 = 285 amps, 2/0 = 330 amps. 3/0 = 385 amps, 4/0 = 445 amps and so on.
Go Steelers!!!
Go Steelers!!!
http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/product-inverter/2400w-12vdc-pure-sine-inverter-n-series
Go Steelers!!!
Go Steelers!!!