Anode replacement

MarkB

Jme are those the old ones? I wouldn't have replaced those as they look fine.

jme097

@MarkB yeah they were. I thought they were OK as well but for peace of mind I replaced them lol. 

Michael T

@jme097....cheap insurance compared to.....

LaRea

@jme097 - those are magnesium?  How old?  

jme097

Yes they're magnesium. I feel like they're OEM because there are writing on the back with a marker like factory writing. The previous owner (original owner) kept it on a rack all year round til I bought it. 

Dream_Inn

jme, yours actually don't look too bad.  Was it brittle or anything crumbling off?  Even the edges are still straight.  Sure didn't hurt to change, but I believe you were fine.

jme097

No they weren't crumbling at all. I think they were in fine condition but I couldn't find a clear defintion of what good ones and bad ones were so I said just screw it lol

Cableguy Greg

If they were original, they might not have been Magnesium. Does anyone know what is installed on the drive when it is shipped from Merc?

Handymans342

Great question Greg

Michael T

The factory ones from Merc for my twin 2013 350 Mags were Aluminum as were they for my 2014 Twin 502 mags.

BTW - having taught Physics and Chemsitry may I suggest that the "look" of a metal surface can belie it's condition. The metal surface of anodes can alter over time with low levels of exposure to make it less receptive to acting as an anode. The anodes don't have to be pitted to heII and look scary to be risky.

@jme097s had 'started to go" ...how long would they have lasted? Who knows? Did @jme097 want to chance that, obviously not. IMO, a wise decision?

I agree that @ jme097 could have gotten another summer of use......but use where? Once anodes start to go do you want to use them for an entire summer? What if you visit a couple of locations with real bad electricals?  Under those circumstances those anodes - that have started the erosion process already - can quickly erode further.

Sooo - if @jme097 were going to use them I would check them every 6 weeks all summer to make sure they hadn't started to rapidly erode.

Unless a boater stays at the same slip with the same slip mates all the time it is very hard to predict how fast your anodes will erode. That is why I suggested frequent inspections if using them once they show degradation.

Where I have boated, going to various marinas up and down the coast - my anodes were 30 plus % eroded at the end of a season. The answer was easy for me, get rid of them.

Dream_Inn

MT, have you ever been a salesman?   If you need a few extra bucks in your retirement, I think you could be good at selling anything boating related!  (just pulling on your leg here bud )

Handy & I don't have to be as concerned.

jme097

Hahaha. The guy, doesn't matter the subject, always has great points and outlooks and advice. Wealth of knowledge @Michael T

MarkB

The rule of thumb I've been told is replace when they have lost 50% of their weight. 

Michael T

I agree Mark but would you start your season with 50% depleated anodes. I wouldn't and if I did and found they were eroding too fast I would have had to pull my cruisers with a hauler or sling  to service them - THAT would make the cost of replacing them in the first place cheap....not arguin' just sayin'.

Dream_Inn

Another reason for that lift.  Easy to monitor and change those anodes.  just sayin'  (Raybo, you had start with that sayin')

raybo3

Yerp...........LOL

MarkB

MT i hear you. For sure you need to make a practical call before you drop her on the water.

Can't anodes be replaced in the water with scuba gear?  Not saying to do that, but interested to know if it's possible.

Michael T

@MarkB, technically yes, a scuba diver could do that. But they have blue Loctite on their threads and I'm not sure how it would be affected by being screwed in wet. The prop anode nuts should be put on with a torque wrench, which also complicates matters a bit. I would think it would be an easy 2 hours work underwater R&Ring those anodes plus the travel time for the diver. I'm thinking an easy $500 ....so I'm back to - you have to make a judgement call before you put the boat in.

raybo3

Anodes get changed in the water all the time at my club. Never a problem bottoms cleaned also.....

Michael T

....yeah, it's no problem as long as you want to pay a diver! So, what's cheaper - replace your anodes first or pay a diver half way through the summer? That was the original question - when to replace, not how.

raybo3

Really dont need a diver. Someone with a mask that swims under water. It's really no big deal.....

Michael T

....you're kidding right!? I never know. Ever taken the anodes off of a B lll X drive on land.... underwater with a mask? LOL  Too funny!...it would be a lot of work with my tanks.

raybo3

Not kidding MT happens every summer at my club. 

Dream_Inn

I agree with Raybo. Pull up to a shallower area and it is simple. But even simpler on the lift. just sayin'