Docking for the summer-what to expect.
elarson5757
Member Posts: 232 ✭✭
Well for the first time I'm considering docking my 246CC at a local Marina for the summer. It would be on the Saginaw River here in mid-MICHIGAN near the mouth and the Saginaw Bay of Lake Huron.
What concerns me is I don't know what to expect, prep, or plan for. I've docked at a resort for the weekend or even a week but never for months.
Do I get it bottom painted and if yes what do I ask for?
Anything else I should do to protect the boat, drive, etc?
I love the idea but the lack of knowledge worries me..Id appreciate any insight this group can share.
What concerns me is I don't know what to expect, prep, or plan for. I've docked at a resort for the weekend or even a week but never for months.
Do I get it bottom painted and if yes what do I ask for?
Anything else I should do to protect the boat, drive, etc?
I love the idea but the lack of knowledge worries me..Id appreciate any insight this group can share.
Post edited by elarson5757 on
Comments
First of all don't worry you'll have a blast meeting new people.
My biggest "immediate" concern would be to check the status of my anodes. This is because there is often electrical leakage at marina sites which can erode metals on your boat's hull - your anodes should be Magnesium.
Regard bottom coating - newer boats probably have vinylester resin for fiberglass lay-up which retards osmosis penetration more that earlier polyester resins. Before you bottom coat or use a special prep for your drive (as long as the drive doesn't have exposed metal - if that's the case prime and spray it) I suggest you ask the resident slip owners what they have done as that's a good guide.
The Admiral and I are paying the marina a visit soon and will be able to meet and talk to a bunch of the "locals".
I keep my tool box full the entire summer.
Check out your slip. If you will have any dock lines tied to fixed pilings, consider getting a set of TideMinders ( www.tideminders.com ) or something similar.
And get used to the fact that you will now have to pay special attention to your outdrive and anodes every single year to keep corrosion away. New anodes every year, sand and paint any blisters in the outdrive paint and so forth.
You'll love storing in the water ... and you'll probably use the boat a lot more!
The esthetic appearance of bottom paint is certainly a personal choice.
If you trailer your boat bottom paint it is less of a requirement. If your fiberglass lay-up was with one of the newer resin chemistry's, such as vinylester you have less of a need for bottom coat.
Fresh water is harder on hulls than salt water as salt water is somewhat of a preservative. Fresh water migration from inside a boat can be much worse than from the outside in.
Salesmen who say bottom coats harm the boats selling price are entitled to their opinion (which I think is based on the fact that their boats don't have it or they are just aren't educated regarding the process) Statistics do not support that view. Many big cruiser lines are now leaving the factory with bottom coatings. Many are now using the new VOC free Aqua line.
Any decent surveyor has a non intrusive moisture meter that reads right through any bottom coat and can sniff the slightest degree of moisture. Any decent surveyor has a transducer set-up that can immediately tell if a hull has been damaged and an attempt to cover it up with bottom coat has been made. This was done dozens of times all over my hull by the surveyor recently.
Any seller with an IQ above a ping pong ball takes numerous before and after pictures of the hull, if bottom coating. Most hull coatings specialists take pictures of their process.
Actually, the idea behind the bottom coat is not for a "bottom" coat at all but an osmotic barrier coat - with a final bottom coat as an ablative dressing. It is really the application of the two or more barrier coats that you are doing for protection of your hull as these are what protects your hull from osmosis....and any boat that is in the water long enough will develop osmosis. One of my Rinkers did and it was on a boat lift its entire life. Rinker, bless them, paid to have the hull completely re-gelcoated - think $$$$$ on that one.
The final coat is an ablative wear coat that should never clump nor come off in chunks. The newer ones, like that applied to my former EC 360, are VOC free and pose FAR less risk to a lake/river than the boat hull waxes that are constantly shed (many containing PTFE and other contaminants) into the lake and the gas and fluids from most boats.
I noticed no difference on top speed after the application of my botom coat as compared to what I heard from other boaters. In fact my top speed was faster than any of the non coated boats of owners I discussed the issue with. Maybe it was the newer type 502s.
So, imo, it boils down to how you use your boat and how long it remains constantly in the water. Then it's a personal choice of appearance. But saying that it won't better protect your hull, hurts performance or hurts re-sale is, imo, incorrect.
Go Steelers!!!