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246 Trailer Bearing/Spindle advice needed

elarson5757elarson5757 Member Posts: 232 ✭✭
in Trailer & Trailering Discussions
This weekend I had a retaining washer break and the castle nut backed off causing issues on one of the four spindles of my boat trailer. Basically It got hot enough it was boiling the grease, steaming/smoking, and trashed the seal so it just started to sling grease out the back.

As a result I redid both sides of that axle...all new bearings, races, and seals and a really good clean job. Note the other axle was replaced due to major failure last summer so I just re-lubed that one via the E-Z Lube fittings.

Now that I got it all back together I towed it about 15 miles, and when I arrived I felt all four hubs.  3 of the 4 I could grab but the one that had an issue was already very hot to the point I could not hold my finger to it. 

I I have to believe that it could only be the pre-load on the bearings being to tight???  Can't think of anything else with all new bearings, races, and cleaned very well. 

Thoughts?
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    NavyCTRCNavyCTRC Member Posts: 303 ✭✭✭
    Possible the previous heat up was enough to warp the spindle, or otherwise cause permanant damage?  Jack it up and spin the tire, if it moves up and down or side to side, it's the spindle.
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    howardramshowardrams Member Posts: 223 ✭✭✭
    You didn't mention brakes, so I assume one wheel doesn't have a brake dragging.
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    Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @howardrams is correct, a brake dragging will heat things up.
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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    frodo13056frodo13056 Member Posts: 212 ✭✭✭
    I'm guessing that you have brakes on each wheel? If so, do you have an issue with the drum / pad (or caliper / pad) not fully disengaging? Overheating brakes can easily transfer heat to the spindle / hub/ bearings. Also, you may want to consider buying an infrared thermometer - Harbor Freight sells them and they are pretty cheap but very accurate. I have one that I use when I trailer and keep it on the boat to check exhaust manifold temps, alternator and water pump bearing temps, etc.
    Another thought is that you should never do a thermal check using the front of your fingers - always use the backside of your fingers or hand in case the temps are much higher than you think. You burn a finger or two and that hand essentially becomes useless - if you burn the back of a finger, it'll hurt but you can still use your hand!

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    elarson5757elarson5757 Member Posts: 232 ✭✭
    howardrams said:
    You didn't mention brakes, so I assume one wheel doesn't have a brake dragging.
    I'll check it when I pull it back apart.  I assume with the caliper removed I can pull the brake fluid fill cap on the tongue and then compress the caliper piston using a c clamp just like a car?  
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    howardramshowardrams Member Posts: 223 ✭✭✭
    Yes you can compress the piston that way to make sure it moves freely.  Depending on how your trailer's leaf springs are laid out you may be able get the one wheel off the ground to see if it spins freely by driving up on boards with the other tires on that side or jacking just the one axle.  My trailer has surge brakes with discs on all six wheels
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    elarson5757elarson5757 Member Posts: 232 ✭✭
    howardrams said:
    Yes you can compress the piston that way to make sure it moves freely.  Depending on how your trailer's leaf springs are laid out you may be able get the one wheel off the ground to see if it spins freely by driving up on boards with the other tires on that side or jacking just the one axle.  My trailer has surge brakes with discs on all six wheels
    Yea I used one of those ramps designed just for this reason that I keep in my truck box in case of a side of the road need.  It lifts the other axle up just enough to spin the tire. 
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    Robs_232Robs_232 Member Posts: 212 ✭✭✭

    I had a caliper piston freeze up wouldn't completely release. I found it when grease was sizzling out of the hub after a short trip home from the lake. Took the caliper apart because I couldn't get the brake to release completely. After finally getting the piston out I found the seal metal was severely rusted and/or corroded around the piston. I took the other side caliper apart to inspect it and it was starting to do the same thing. Long story short. I was going to rebuild the calipers but it was just about as cheap to buy new complete calipers with pads from e-trailer.com. Brake pads were worn on the caliper that was dragging. I think the complete calipers were $75 each. elarson I would check this out causing the overheating of hub and might not have anything to do with the bearings.

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