Windlass Question

Michael T

Hey guys, I got an e.mail from Bryan. We have been troubleshooting an ornery windlass.

He has tried to make it drop by having one person push on it , carefully, while another depresses the down button.

 I have always used the windlass to bring-in the rode and chain so it should be stacked properly with no hang-ups. I guess if the rode fell "funny" it could be jammed-up under the windlass with a kink or knot? If so I guess the mirror in the front berth and the access panel behind need to be removed to check the rode?

I am wondering if the tension can be adjusted - the gypsy? the fleming and screw? or using the handle to manually drop the anchor in case it is just temporarily stuck in place? - my guesses

It gets electricity and will move a link or maybe to but no more. Are there motor winding contact brushes that can be easily inspected?

Is anyone thinking ground?

I suggested calling the manufacturer or looking at their website for trouble shooting suggestions.

I have never had trouble with it before and never used it to move the boat forward so it has not been misused. If anything I may not have used it enough.

That's all that I can think of.....

Any suggestions appreciated. I don't have the manual with the amps. and other data but Bryan could supply that.

Thanks MT

frenchship

MT,
ornery windlass. Does not bring anything on the internet......

Michael T

I called some friends and looked at "windlass binding" on the internet and got nothing more than what I posted above ...but the guys on this forum have such deep experience that I figure someone has this one solved!

@frenchship, ornery=pita

Michael T

Geez, @shawnmjr, that's a good point! Cr*p I feel stupid for not thinking of that one!!! The boat is a 2014....so, I bet Bryan will check that out!

bry1429

Michael T said:

Hey guys, I got an e.mail from Bryan. We have been troubleshooting an ornery windlass.

He has tried to make it drop by having one person push on it , carefully, while another depresses the down button.

 I have always used the windlass to bring-in the rode and chain so it should be stacked properly with no hang-ups. I guess if the rode fell "funny" it could be jammed-up under the windlass with a kink or knot? If so I guess the mirror in the front berth and the access panel behind need to be removed to check the rode?

I am wondering if the tension can be adjusted - the gypsy? the fleming and screw? or using the handle to manually drop the anchor in case it is just temporarily stuck in place? - my guesses

It gets electricity and will move a link or maybe to but no more. Are there motor winding contact brushes that can be easily inspected?

Is anyone thinking ground?

I suggested calling the manufacturer or looking at their website for trouble shooting suggestions.

I have never had trouble with it before and never used it to move the boat forward so it has not been misused. If anything I may not have used it enough.

That's all that I can think of.....

Any suggestions appreciated. I don't have the manual with the amps. and other data but Bryan could supply that.

Thanks MT

Thank you MT.
The chain is not jammed I can loosen the end cap and freely spin the gears but when applying power with the buttons it just clicks. Once and a while moves a link or two-very slowly.
It looks spankin' brand new, just like everything on the boat except for the captain.
Headed out to the boat now to give it another try.

bry1429

shawnmjr said:

Michael T said:

Geez, @shawnmjr, that's a good point! Cr*p I feel stupid for not thinking of that one!!! The boat is a 2014....so, I bet Bryan will check that out!

Lol, well I hope it covers it and he can move on to his boating time.

Headed to the boat now and will retrieve all papers for the windlass. Check the troubleshooting guide and warranty info. Thanks for the tip.

Michael T

Bryan, watch your fingers!!!!!!!

JC290

Sounds like a bad electrical connection 

bry1429

JC290 said:

Sounds like a bad electrical connection 

Thanks JC290, tried it a few times last night and still no go.  I will be going in the area where the access to the chain and windlass are (behind vberth mirror) today to have a look at the conections. 

frenchship

Make sur the breaker is on ,then use a volt meter to check voltage at the connector that goes to the windlass in the anchor locker, you could also check the voltage at the breaker at the helm station first

frenchship

P.S.
looking for a good 12.5 to 12.8 volts 

frenchship

Also did you check the seleniod since you seem to hear a click this could be the problem, may be so,embody knows where it is located

craigswardmtb

Is the gypsy nut tight.  I know the tension nut on mine loosens up occasionally.  It won't go up or down when that happens.  Yours is a different mfg than mine so I'm not exactly sure of the gypsy design.  Mine has a single large, maybe 1-1/4" inch, nut on the starboard side of the gypsy.

If its not that it sounds electrical to me.  Or perhaps a bound gear.

Michael T

Byan, maybe I'd try the electrical suggestions from the guys and the tightness of the gypsy before removing the mirror?

NavyCTRC

MT,

My mirror is held on with velcro, then a round hatch to twist open...it is super easy.

summerx

on my last boat, during the first year of ownership, my lewmar windlass broke internally.  The main gear had sheared off.  I pulled it off the boat, sent it back and they replaced it.  It was doing similar things.  wouldn't pull up or down, seemed to be slipping and would occasionally "catch" and move a little.

Michael T

Thanks so much for the prompt replies guys!

bry1429

Thank you all for your help. In between doing small projects today  I've been trying everything, loosening the big tension cap, lowering it manually, pushing pressure on the anchor while pressing the button.  It only makes a clicking sound when buttons are pressed.  We will be putting a meter on it tomorrow to check the voltage,(Checked and all Breakers are good)
 MT, Now it's time to start up the blender!

Michael T

.....yes! Blender time!

BTW, I'm very upset that you are having problems with this windlass. I feel awful that something I sold is not 100%. For the life of me I can't figure out what it could be as it is so new, was never treated rough and worked. Maybe it's my fault for not using it enough.

It has to be something simple. Some kind of adjustment?! I seemed to remember reading in the manual that there were adjustments but that could be my imagination.

Just be very careful with your fingers. That windlass used to be very fast and if something is hung-up or stuck and it suddenly frees-up and takes-off it could draw your fingers into it.

Question: Were you able to use the hand crank? Did it move freely with that?

bry1429

Michael T said:

.....yes! Blender time!

BTW, I'm very upset that you are having problems with this windlass. I feel awful that something I sold is not 100%. For the life of me I can't figure out what it could be as it is so new, was never treated rough and worked. Maybe it's my fault for not using it enough.

It has to be something simple. Some kind of adjustment?! I seemed to remember reading in the manual that there were adjustments but that could be my imagination.

Just be very careful with your fingers. That windlass used to be very fast and if something is hung-up or stuck and it suddenly frees-up and takes-off it could draw your fingers into it.

Question: Were you able to use the hand crank? Did it move freely with that?

Hey Michael,  no worries .all  Mechanical things have glitches no matter the age. The documents/manual for the unit are very vague and with no useful information in them.the plastic windlass wrench "hand crank" does free movement of the gear and it does allow the anchor to be raised up/down manually 

JC290- all electrical connections on the system are good.

Frenchship- I'm not sure where the solenoid switch is at and have not found it,I think it's built into the unit. Maybe ? Checked electrical current and it's 12.9v

Shawnmjr/Summerx- I will be reaching out to the manufacturer to inquire about the warranty options if any.

craigswardmtb- it's a (Quick Genius) brand windlass and the tension hub doesn't help the motor whether loosened or tightened.

NavyCTRC- the access to the windlass and chain is very similar to your access 

bry1429

bry1429

No luck yet, I will be reaching out to the local Rinker dealer and or the windlass "Quick" manufacturers rep for warranty info today

bry1429

Hi Everyone! I had a long great conversation with Quick Windlass corporation tech Paul this morning.  He walked me through the troubleshooting for the unit. I need to access the solinoid switch,  I have a call into Rinker to find out where they typically mount the solinoid on the 360 models.  Windlass Tech Paul stated that the solinoid switchs are usually mounted In the windlass area but some boat manufacturers mount them in engine compartment , some mount them where ever they feel like on the day they build the boat, ugh. Not sure Rinker will get back to me today with that info in time for my visit to boat after work. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE THE WINDLASS SOLINOID SWITCH IS MOUNTED ON A 360EC ?

Thanks

Michael T

IF there is no noise a t the boat and you have the engine hatch up - try to activate the windlass from the helm then you might hear a click (for the solenoid) either in the engine bay or at the helm. If this doesn't work go to the front windlass foot controls, open up the windlass locker cover and activate the foot controls to see if you can hear a click down just below the windlass - you could also have someone in front of the Rinker mirror access plate in the front berth to see if they can hear a click deeper in the anchor locker.

Good call telephoning Quick! Hopefully Rinker has a "standard" place to locate that windlass solenoid!

Dream_Inn

Hmmm, why was I thinking it was actually mounted up front by the windlass (underneath).

bry1429

I looked in the area underneath the windlass (behind v-berth mirror) that's where i thought the clicking was coming from. Could not find the solenoid switch. I was only looking in that area , thinking it would be there. I will listen with more placement options when clicking the toggle today. I read somewhere on here that it could be in the helm area (MT sugesstion) . I will check and get back to ya

Michael T

Bryan, another idea...does anything in the parts diagram show that the solenoid might be attached directly to the underside of the windlass and just be sitting under the floor of the anchor locker?

bry1429

I will look at that option, headed to boat in couple of hours, keep ya posted. Thanks

DanD2

I know on the older models, 342's & 360's, the solenoid is located at the helm behind the subwoofer. Subwoofer is located to the right side of the drivers feet.

bry1429

Well, I found the solenoid switch, it's in the anchor compartment but up along the starboard side out of view and almost out Of Reach from the access hole. had to remove portions of the v-byrth trim and panels so i can access the solenoid switch.  I put a meter on it before the switch and it was 13.5v, activated the footswitch for the anchor and it was 5.8 volts, nowhere near enough voltage to work The Windlass. I will contact quick windlass tomorrow to see if they will warranty a new solenoid  switch.  

Michael T

Wow Bryan, I'm impressed (but sorry too) you haven't had the boat that long and you have already been somewhere in it that I wasn't and you didn't want to be.

The hot wire coming into the solenoid looks plenty big enough to deliver the amps - which your meter showed it's getting.

There aren't any visible scorching marks which is good.

What a BS place to place that solenoid! Man, it must have been a bugger to get it out!

Do you think it is just a bad part?

It doesn't look like it was getting wet!

On the positive side the rode/chain looks like it has a nice fall and there may even be room to lengthen the rode if you want deeper anchorages.