Replace hatch lifts on 370 transom locker

LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
The 370 has a nice transom storage locker supported by a pair of gas-shock hatch lifts, but the hatch on mine doesn't open far enough.  I want to replace the hatch lifts with longer ones so the locker will be easier to use.  Anybody ever done it?

To use the hatch, you really have to kneel down on the seat and crawl into the locker.  If it opened just a little farther, it would be make a big difference.  


Comments

  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Adding longer ones might not really help that. The mounts are determined by the strut length at close, so a longer strut mounts lower and you still get the same 'raise' per se. 

    The ideal solution is a torsion spring. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    I'd definitely need to move the lower mount to a lower point.  The existing lifts only provide 6.5" of rise.  I think I need one with 11" or 12" or rise -- which means the minimum length would be more like 24" instead of 17".  But there's room for it, I think.

    Do you have any suggestions for a torsion spring?
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    The 400 uses the same electric one that the engine hatch has. So, a touch of button and it raises and the arm is pretty long to raise it up nice and high.  Just a thought.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The torsion spring...you might find a hinge with it built it, just need to know the load it lifts. 

    The linear actuator could work, a rotary actuator even better and smaller too. 

    http://altramotion.com/newsroom/2015/10/ap-electric-rotary-actuator-for-salt-spreader

    Like the above. Done right you could raise that hatch close to vertical!

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    That would be nice for the EC 360 too. My only complaint with that boat was I had to slither under that friggin' transom cover. I wacked my head on it and cut my back so many times.....had I kept it that was going to be done right after LEDs in the drink holders and up-graded lighting in the engine compartment. I was actually going to install contact lighting in the engine bay that would come on as soon as the hatch started to rise. Nice bright LEDs
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    Project!!!  I got onto this topic because I have rust stains dripping from a couple of the fittings, which means I need to rebed all of the hardware.  And if I make the hatch open all the way, I'll be able to see the ugly black stains on the inside of the hatch, so I need to paint the inside a nice gloss white.  

    An electric actuator would be cool, because it would let me stop the door at any desired height.  But I'll probably just do gas lifts for now (only $15 each at GLS).

    But I have to wonder:  is there a reason Rinker designed it to open only halfway?  Is there some interference that I will discover after installing the new lifts?  
  • jme097jme097 Member Posts: 1,224 ✭✭✭
    I have the same issue with my 280. Hatch doesn't lift nearly as far as it should. Would love to lift it another 6-8 inches. Wonder how I could do this
    Boat Name: Knot A Worry
    2007 280 Rinker Express 6.2L B3
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    About half open is all you'll ever get with gas struts or a linear actuator. You would need a double enveloping actuator to get more or the rotary actuator. Or the torsion hinge/spring.  

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    Actually, I think it will work if I relocate the lower mount point.  Here's a rough sketch of the original and modified geometry (I have not verified these dimensions yet):



    I picked 36/21 inches because GLS has that size in stock.  But I'll need to verify the geometry by disconnecting the actuators and measuring.
  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,042 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Looks like it should work if the lower mount is relocated to the correct distance like you said.
    2008 330EC
  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,042 ✭✭✭✭✭
    What if you relocated the hinge to the bottom of the hatch and had it open out from the top?
    2008 330EC
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    It's too big. You wouldn't be able to reach into the locker.
  • jme097jme097 Member Posts: 1,224 ✭✭✭
    That would be kind of awkward I agree. I am going to put some thought into this as well
    Boat Name: Knot A Worry
    2007 280 Rinker Express 6.2L B3
  • NavyCTRCNavyCTRC Member Posts: 303 ✭✭✭
    Hinge it from one side or the other maybe?  Not sure if possible, but I have the same issue on my boat, plus the ram doesn't hold it open very well.
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    I took some measurements today.  The gas springs need to have a stroke of around 12", and the compressed length has to be shorter than 20".  The lift capacity is 40 pounds per spring.

    GLS has this:

    http://greatlakesskipper.com/ranger-6200802-barnes-gssx-14011-040-stainless-steel-28-16-1-2-inch-40-lb-boat-hatch-spring-lift-gas-shock

    The length is perfect, but it's a different brand from the original Attwood lifts, so I'm not sure whether it will fit on the existing 10-mm ball mounts.  
  • SheilaNolanSheilaNolan Member Posts: 2
    Please advise: my 41 transom locker will not open with the switch and the breaker is in the locker. Can I open manually? Anyone else have this happen? What could cause it?
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    I'm not sure where the breaker is ... but my suggestion is you should create a new discussion for this question.  People might not see it here.

    I'm wondering if it's possible to reach the breaker from the other side (under the seat).
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