2003 Rinker Fiesta Vee 270 interiors ceiling removal

SteelersTNT

I would like to take the ceiling down to inspect the roof and deck area in front of my windshield it looks like some water got in around my wiper area and some of the fiberglass got soft. Would like to use some resin and wanted to see about access from the underside rather than drill holes in the top. Anyone have any ideas on how the ceiling comes out?

rasbury

I would guess that the buttons you are what hold it up there but no clue on taking it down, I'm sure you will a gods response..

DazeOff

I'm also hoping someone can provide details about this process because I have the same issue and would hate to start this project without a little guidance.

reneechris14

Mine is also a little soft there just below the wiper.2002 270fv.I don't think you can access it because of the bathroom.but I think it was the mild or setup.my wiper does not leak I checked form behind the dash,all dry on no signs of dips

PartsMan

@reneechris14 - You should have an access panel in the bathroom for the wiper motor

reneechris14

Yes I do partsman I checked one day when I had my dash apart.but I think he wants to drop the whole ceiling.is everyone's deck soft there?

SteelersTNT

I have the access panel open under the wiper in the bathroom, the area I can see without a mirror and couldn't see any leaks, the left side of the deck is solid, only the area below the wiper seems a little soft, everything from the center hatch forward is good. The reason I thought it was the wiper leaking is the location but it may be wicking water and not actually leaking near there

DazeOff

I think I'm F###ed. Took down the headliner (pretty easy work. took about 20 minutes). Looks like water has been leaking probably from the windshield down to almost the front of the cabin, rotting the wood along the way. You'll see there is almost a straight line of damage which is where I felt the soft spots on the starboard side of the deck from the windshield down. Calling a glass guy for a quote. I'll be pulling the molding off the bottom of the windshield to try and find the entry point of the water. Very frustrating.

Anyone have any recommendations?


The images are the same area taken from different directions.

lionelz

Ouch, we're your ceiling panels stained?  Should be able to be fixed it's just about the cost

DazeOff

The panels are fine. The leaking water ran off the panels, down the side under the foam backed vinyl and soaked the carpet under the cushions.the only damage seems to be in the ceiling which in itself is a pretty penny to fix. The glass guy I spoke with has seen this a few times and the culprit has almost always been a cra**py install job of the windshield at the factory. 

randy56

oh wow! You make me want to sell mine. Keep us posted

DazeOff

randy56 said:

oh wow! You make me want to sell mine. Keep us posted

No joke. I love the boat and this is the first "real" issue I've had with it which isn't too crazy considering it's 13 yrs old. I look at boating as an investment. The returns are certainly not in dollars and cents but all the great time I get to spend with my family. Every penny is worth it to me and my boys can't wait for summer vacation and our trips on the boat. 

skennelly

Geez this thread is making me nervous

SteelersTNT

Daze off is there wood between the fiberglass on the ceiling and the outside deck area or is it all fiberglass also how did you take down the ceiling panels

randy56

Daze, Now that you have the headliner off maybe you could get a garden hose up on top and determend where its coming in? 

DazeOff

randy56 said:

Daze, Now that you have the headliner off maybe you could get a garden hose up on top and determend where its coming in? 

That's todays project. I gouged out some of the rotten core which should help with spotting the leak when I hit it with the hoze. My bets are on the windshield.

randy56

LaRea had mentioned on another post you could take a fan put it in the cabin seal up windows and door, turn on the fan to preasurize the cabin, then use soapey water on the outside and look for bubbles ? if you cannot find it.

DazeOff

So far I've been able to cut away most of the areas with rotted core. Anything you see that's black, still has to be cut away and gouged out. I have about another hour or so of cutting and cleaning to make sure I'm only left with only strong dry core. At that point I'll cut the template for the new core, epoxy it up to the upper deck and start the fiberglass mat and cloth work underneath. By the time I'm done the deck should be able to hold an elephant or maybe a couple of fat guys.

jme097

Wow. Terrible time to be doing it in the summer but atleast you'll be done with a headache after youre done

DazeOff

jme097 said:

Wow. Terrible time to be doing it in the summer but atleast you'll be done with a headache after youre done

I really could have waited for the season to end but we do spend a lot of time on the boat and the kids use the bow to lay out or jump into the water when at anchor and I really didn't want someones foot going through the deck.

2 more days of labor and a few for everything to set and cure and we'll be back in action with no more soft spots.

SteelersTNT

Thank you for documenting the process and answering questions, please keep us all in the loop as you progress and wrap it up, can't wait to hear it's done!

randy56

Ya, thanks for the update, it has to be hot working in there. Its hard to tell from the pic's but what is the black grid ? I guess you are lucky you can do glass work and repair it yourself. That would be an expensive at a boat shop. How thick is that? did you find where it was coming in? sorry so many questions

DazeOff

I have the AC cranked so it's actually not that bad. The black grid is what's left behind of the balsa core that I peeled off. That still has to be completely removed and cleaned. I'm using 3/4" core material (balsa or divinycell not sure yet) then laying up with fiberglass mat and woven roving for added strength. I got a quote of about $3k site unseen, just pics which would probably come closer to $4k by the time their finished. The materials are less than $400, the rest is all labor.

MDboater

Have you watched any of the "Boatworks Today" videos on Youtube?  He does a great job of explaining the process and materials used.  There is a 4 part series on core replacemet.  I believe there is one on glassing  over plywood.  Other thoughts...... you probably don't want to work with those chemicals in an enclosed cabin.  Consider wearing a chemical respirator that's specified for the materials you will be using.

randy56

I would think the resin would be hard-on the eyes and lungs.

DazeOff

"What you see on the surface is just the tip of the iceberg". I have learned the true meaning of this quote. As you see below, the few spots I uncovered originally has turned into more than 3x5 feet of damaged core. I picked up the new core material today and hope to have it in tomorrow which should set by sunday and be ready for the glass mat and cloth. Can't wait for this project to be complete. No matter how much protective gear you wear that fiberglass gets in and becomes pretty irritating.

MDboater

How do you connect the edges of the old core to the edges of the new core?  That is, what will support weight applied from above?  Will you bevel then overlap fiberglass?

DazeOff

Epoxy old core to new core on the sides with thicker putty like mix them multiple layers of overlapping mat then the much stronger woven roving cloth. To follow up I will inject penatrating epoxy from the old windshield holes top down to fill any empty pockets to prevent future damage. 

aero3113

I had a dream last night that the front of my hull near the winch eye was all soft and mushy. Thanks @Dazeoff !!!! LoL!

randy56

daze, you must have some experance with it, sounds like a plan. Sleeping in mine last nite, keep looking up and pushing on ceiling, LOL 

skennelly

Same here all week I was worrying.  Got back this weekend and first think I did was climb all over the bow checking for any signs.  Think I'm good.

As preventive measure would it help to caulk around the wiper motor and where the windshield meets the deck?