Port Tach, Hour Meter and Volt Meter Inop
wm61356
Member Posts: 201 ✭✭✭
I recently purchased a used 2009 Rinker 320 with 350 Mag's and DTS. I love the boat but have been having problems with the port Tachometer, Hour meter and Volt meter. All starboard gauges work fine. The port Tachometer, hour meter and volt meter stopped working today. The gauges are made by Faria. Additionally, the AM/FM radio also no longer operates as it did with the port ignition switch in the accessory or run position. It seems strange to me that all three meters would fail at the same time, and the lack of power to the radio makes me think that there is a power feed problem somewhere. The previous owner admitted that the port tachometer would stop working occasionally, but it worked fine during the sea trial. I have been unable to find a wiring diagram for the boat and am at a loss as to where to start to diagnose the problem, so I thought I'd post the problem and see if anyone has experienced this or a similar problem and can help me diagnose the problem. I apologize for the long post.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
Comments
pull out your voltmeter and start tracking near the the battery and track your voltage back to where you loose it. I know it's a pain, but it won't take forever and you'll feel great that you did it yourself. Then you'll know what needs to be addressed.
As for the Tach, have you tried knocking on it while underway? either you're clogged or oxidized. you can pull the tube out of the back of the tach and blow compressed air (gently) through it; look/listen for bubbles at the stern. If that doesn't work, try to turn the selector on the back of it left and right about a dozen times (REMEMBER WHERE IT WAS INITIALLY!). This should fix the oxidation problem.
good luck
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Thanks Jim
He did send the wiring diagrams for the whole boat Please let all the forum people know that Rinker is the best. Randy Rinker emailed them to me without a problem Thanks Capt Steve
Jim
After some careful wire tracing I was able to resolve the problem with the gauges and radio on my 2009 320 (see description of problem in my original post, above).<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
First some technical information on the gauge electrical system: The gauges are NOT powered directly from the ignition switch(s). When the ignition switch is on, power is fed to the corresponding relay (port or starboard) in the instrument panel. The relay closes, completing a 12 volt circuit from a buss bar (one for port gauges and one for starboard gauges) to the gauges to power them and cause them to operate. These buss bars receive power from a 6 gage wire that runs from the batteries in the engine compartment. These wires (one port and one starboard) are connected to the positive battery cables through an exposed two terminal connector with an in-line 40 amp fuse. This connector is mounted in top of the stringer alongside each engine where they are exposed to moisture from the bilge! This connection was badly corroded on my boat and was the cause of a significant volt drop (high resistance) in the power feed circuit to the gauges. Initially, the low voltage caused erratic operation of the gauges, particularly the tachometers. Eventually, as the corrosion and subsequent resistance in the circuit increased, the gauges stopped functioning altogether. I found the problem by performing a volt drop test with a volt meter on the gauge circuit which identified low voltage. The corroded connection in the engine compartment was the cause. To repair the problem I disconnected the battery cables from the batteries so the circuit was not live and then disassembled and cleaned the fuse and terminal connectors in the bilge with a wire brush, reassembled and tightened the connections and coated them with “liquid tape” to protect the connections from exposure to moisture in the future.
I don’t know how many year/model Rinker boats utilized the connector I’ve described here, but my 2009 320 certainly has them. I advise anyone with this year/model Rinker who is experiencing erratic or inoperative gauge issues to check the electrical integrity of the connectors in the bilge. White or green color and corrosion is a dead give-away to a high resistance connection that can cause problems due to lower than intended circuit voltage. It could save you from purchasing new gauges that you may not need.
I apologize to all for this long post. I hope that it is helpful to someone in the future. I did my best to describe what I found. I’ve been able to find a lot of really useful information on this forum and very much appreciate being able to participate.
Glad you found the issue. Mike