Center of gravity (longitudinal) for 2013 310 hardtop express cruiser

We are having a boat hoist (lift) built soon on Lake St Clair. Due to water depth typically 3 feet at dock... we need to use sling straps rather than typical thick beams and cradle - since draw is about 2 feet with drives trimmed mostly up.

Our marine contractor needs to know the center of gravity so slings can be equalized fore and aft of the CG.

Calls/emails to Rinker no help so far. Please tell me if you know... either dry or wet CG distance forward of transom.

Or... if you know a direct phone # for someone in engineering at Rinker I can call? Even owner (Randy?) # if need be.

Steve M

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Answers

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have posted pictures of our 2013Ec 310 in slings on this forum. If you can't find one maybe I can.
  • solarmetersolarmeter Member Posts: 5
    Yes - please help me find the pics. Link(s)? I am new to the forum and don't know correct picture search process. Thanks!
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2016
    @solarmeter - I'll look through some CDs I have of the boat for a picture of it in slings, if successful I'll post.
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2016

    @solarmeter, this is just my first look at my CDs of our former 2013 Rinker EC 310. These pictures were taken the day it arrived from the Rinker factory and was loaded off the Rinker factory transport. I remember that the rear sling was about 3-4 feet in from the end of the transom to support the weight of the engines, drives, generator, waste and water holding tanks etc. I "think" the front strap was about 10 feet in from the bow just past where the main lifting strake terminates. I think I may have more pictures of it in slings. I have about 20 Cds to go through - I'll keep looking.

    You can use your cursor to click on various areas of the picture for a closer look at the nearest areas to where the straps were located.

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2016

    @solarmeter this is where they placed the support stands before they removed the slings. I'm 99.9% sure the slings were about 2.5 feet (30") in front of each stand (towards the bow of the boat). I'll keep looking

  • solarmetersolarmeter Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Michael.  Probably the slings need to be at least 13 feet apart. Back to the drawing board  with my marine contractor hoist installer.
  • solarmetersolarmeter Member Posts: 5
    If you can find a side view pic please post it. Thanks.
  • solarmetersolarmeter Member Posts: 5

    Does anybody have a 310 Rinker in a "backyard" lake boat hoist that uses slings?? I suppose not. But if so.... please post any info/pics you may have regarding the sling locations fore and aft.

    Even if you have a 28 - 34  foot boat on slings the info would be helpful in estimating center of gravity.

  • MDboaterMDboater Member Posts: 298 ✭✭✭

    Our marine contractor needs to know the center of gravity so slings can be equalized fore and aft of the CG.

    Isn't the strap location something that someone experienced in lifting boats should either know or be able to figure out?  
  • Tex68Tex68 Member Posts: 50 ✭✭
    Micheal T does Rinker still have or offer the boat cover in the picture you have where your 310 is covered from bow to stern? I live in Oregon and trailer my 310 so I will winterize it this winter and I need a good cover (not a cockpit cover) during the winter. 
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Tex68. That was a factory shrink wrapped cover fro transport from the Rinker factory to the receiving dealer.

    Rinker did it right when installing it with breathing holes to prevent humidity build-up and rusting of engine/genny and other mechanical parts.

    I don't know what it costs to shrink wrap your boat yourself. I do know that I paid $1,000.00 to have my EC 360 shrink wrapped for transport to the USA when I sold it. However, that included labor.

    I do know shrink wrapping is a bit of an art and one mistake with the torch will have bad results for gel coat or hard tops.

    I would think there would be a point where shrink wrapping it yourself each year and having a cover made (lots of info on that on this forum) would break even.

    I just got off the phone with a friend who has made all sorts of custom screens and makes covers for my various Rinkers. I asked her your question.

    She said a whole boat cover like you see in the pics of my boat could certainly be made. She said with that size you would need to make sure you braced for any snow loads -but- that type of cover is doable for sure.

    She recommended breathing ports in areas that snow/water could not accumulate and some breathing flaps right where the air supply goes through the hull side to the engines.

    As well, she always installs a couple of bags of Damp Rid in the downstairs cabin and an open pail of it in the engine compartment.

    Hope this helped a bit. Good luck. MT

    P.S. I actually saved a couple of the "factory" covers from Rinker waaay back when I bought new bow riders and added ventilation to them. I could get about 3 years out of one of them. But - for the cruisers they pretty much cut the "factory" covers up to get them off!



  • Tex68Tex68 Member Posts: 50 ✭✭
    @Michael T you sir are a wealth of information. I probably read 3 hrs worth of forum posts last night about ECs and have come to the conclusion that I am going to listen to your advice. With that said the person you spoke with about the cover, would she be willing to make me one or do you think I'd be better off trying to find something closer to me? I'm in Oregon btw. We don't get a lot of snow here and when we do it's only a couple of inches at most. I use Air Dryer mildew fighter, it's an external heater I have one in the cockpit and one in the cabin to deal with moisture, plus I hang a couple of dry airz bags to absorb any additional moister. I do like the idea of breathing ports as we do get a lot of rain in Oregon I mean a lot so designing it so water doesn't pool is important. One other question I have for you is would you recommend the cover go completely of er the hard top? I don't currently have a radar dome up there but as I stated earlier it is my intent to get something very similar to gtyee' set up so I suppose I'd need to account for the anticipated height of that too. Appreciate your feed back MT. 

    CHEERS
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Tex68. I'm pretty sure she would want your boat there as a template to do the work as she is very precise.

    But, there are guys on this forum that are Rinker cover experts. You might want to send @Dream_Inn a personal message as I believe he may have had a full cover made for his Rinker 400 by Fisher Covers.

    IMO there are also two other options. As you mentioned maybe just a cover that goes over the entire deck and over the cockpit but not the hard top. If you don't get much snow a good waxing of the hard top before storage might be okay if it's mostly rain.

    Another option would be to just get the hard top shrink wrapped. That outta be cheap, then just put on a cover over the deck and cockpit? Trying to think of options :-)

    A sea ray had a neat combo at a slip near me a couple of years ago. He had a cover that went over the whole deck and cockpit and added second one later that he could put over the hard top. I didn't see it on but he showed it to me, it was stored in a canvas bag in is transom. He said he put it on in the winter and it fastened to the main cover with Velcro. I asked about it blowing away and he said if there had been issues he would have added snaps but didn't want them unless required as he feared scratching of the gel coat. 

    My advice would be to see if anyone (like Fisher) has a pre made one, if not I'd check with one of the forum guys.

    Good luck!

  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    @tex68, for your 310, Fischer may already have a template.  Their covers are a little heavy and may be more than what you need.  I had one made for my current boat by a place in NJ (can't remember name off hand), but they made it out of stamoid light material.  As you can imagine, the cover is huge.  It covers my 400 completely down past the water line and over the entire hardtop/boat.  It is lighter than the one I had for my 310, which was a Fischer.  You may be able to find a local canvas shop that will make one for you out of something like stamoid light.  You will then need to make a pvc frame for support (which is pretty simple).

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • Tex68Tex68 Member Posts: 50 ✭✭
    @Dream_Inn do you remember off hand what the cost was for the cover for the 310 from Fischer? As for the PVC frame can you give me an idea of what that would look like. I'm trying to picture it in my head as to where I would need support if the cover goes over the hardtop. Did you put it on the bow to keep it from drooping and collecting water?
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    edited August 2016

    The cover was $2100.  This was back in 2006.  Here is a picture of the frame.  This was on my 310, which didn't have the hardtop.  My 400 it just goes right over the hardtop with similar framework.


    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • Tex68Tex68 Member Posts: 50 ✭✭
    @Dream_Inn thanks for the pic buddy. 
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