Problem with trim indicator

DazeOff

Looking for a little guidance. My trim indicator is bouncing up and down when I trim the drive up or down. Within a few seconds it returns to it's proper position. Is this an indication of a bad trim sensor on the drive or the gauge at the helm? The drive is working fine, it's just the needle jumping all over the place that has me concerned.

2003, 270FV with bravo 3.

Thanks in advance.

BellevilleMXZ

Mine was doing that and it was the trim sensor

MDboater

@BellevilleMXZ:  What was the fix?  Adjustment or replacement?  Cost?   I assume the boat needs to be out of the water. 

My 2003 270FV just started doing the same thing.  The needle is correct at all the way down and all the way up but bounces in transition between the two.

DazeOff

If it's the sensor, from what I've read, the drive needs to be removed to swap out both the sensor and limiter because of the wiring. They come as a set for under $100 for the parts. Much more affordable to do the job over the winter when the  drive comes off anyway.

frenchship

Sensors are easy to replace, the two screws that hold the sensors in place would be probably seize use a small hand impact driver to try to remove them. The worst part is the the bolts that hold the wiring harness rubber grommet into the boat, with the bell housing in place it is tricky to remove and installed back need extension and universal joint attached to your ratchet.
good luck

Handymans342

I am splicing mine in with heat shrink fittings and then I will paint on liquid electric tape

Michael T

Are you sure Steve? I hate splices in wet areas.

DazeOff

I'm with Michael T, don't want to splice if I don't have to. The drive is coming off when I winterize any way, so I'll just have it done then.

Handymans342

There is no voltage on these things, only resistance. It will be fine. 

sethman919

The needle on my 99 Captiva was doing the same thing.  I was able to replace just the rotor inside the trim sender and it works perfectly now.  The rotor was only $16 and took 10 minutes to replace.

BellevilleMXZ

MDboater said:

@BellevilleMXZ:  What was the fix?  Adjustment or replacement?  Cost?   I assume the boat needs to be out of the water. 

My 2003 270FV just started doing the same thing.  The needle is correct at all the way down and all the way up but bounces in transition between the two.

Replaced it over the winter. And yes, can't see it being done without pulling drive, its a tight spot.....I didn't splice either.

DazeOff

@sethman919 do you still have a part number or link to where you bought it from? 

Michael T

AL, brutal, but hilariously funny. Let me guess Steve's response........

Really, AL, REALLY? Why is everyone picking on me?

Is that about right? Really?

Handymans342

Actually it came loose and got crushed when drive was trimmed up and down. I only hit bottom in my pontoon boat

Michael T

Your skeg and prop came loose? Geez Steve, are those Yanmar products too?...... LOL

Handymans342

Wrong again MT. Geeez

NavyCTRC

It must always be pick on Handy day around here, but he has the diesel's so it's justified.....LOL..

Handymans342

At least I reimburse for shipping Patrick!!!!!!

sethman919

SOrry for the delay.  

Mercury / Quicksilver 805134A 4 Power Trim Rotor Kit Sender

Handymans342

I just replaced mine, spliced it in with heat shrink connectors and painted on liquid electric tape. Works good

Michael T

Yeah, for 10 minutes!

DazeOff

sethman919 said:

SOrry for the delay.  

Mercury / Quicksilver 805134A 4 Power Trim Rotor Kit Sender

Is yours a B3 drive and was is on port or starboard side?

Thx Again

sethman919

No, mine is a Alpha 1.  i'm sure its the same one, but double check.  mine is on the starboard side.

zaverin1

I can say that splicing never works or should say works for one season or less