pulling the engine on a 2006 250 ec

duane.mosley

just looking for a little advice before i dive in and pull the engine on my 2006 250. it seems like it will come out without stripping the front of the engine. it's really tight in there as one with experience on this boat will know and if i can avoid leaning over the front of the engine that would be great!  anyone with experience  pulling the engine on this model boat that can shed a little lite would be greatly appreciated.

duane.mosley

Alswagg said:

Easy to pull out.  Remove drive first though.  Have you ever pulled a marine engine?    Tools 1000lb hoist 1000lb  leveler  3/4 wobble socket 9/16 wobble socket 5/16 socket nut driver 7/16 socket 5/8 socket  side cut wire cutters (tie wraps) plus basic ratchets and extensions 

thanks AL. i have done a few engines on my old bayliner cruisers that i've had. plus a few for friends. it's just so tight on the 250 that i wasn't sure if it would go without taking off some pieces on the front. thank you sir

[Deleted User]

Same year, same model here. Al is right on. My engine was removed twice in 2015, once for a new drive and second time for a new fuel tank. The equipment on the front of the engine can stay on, but clearance is tight. I had professional help, but there was nothing that appeared terribly challenging about it, especially for shops that work on boats all day. While you have the motor out do all the maintenance you can think of on it, access is temporarily wonderful! One example, if your starter motor is ten years old, go ahead and get a new one.

Andy

[Deleted User]

By the way, I have Volvo Penta equipment, which may be different from Merc in the front by way of clearance.

Andy

duane.mosley

andyd said:

By the way, I have Volvo Penta equipment, which may be different from Merc in the front by way of clearance.

Andy

so today is the day to pull the engine. i too have volvo penta equipment but i am having some issues with either the bell housing getting stuck on the steering arm or the fuel pump bracket hitting the deck edge. i stopped to eat and recharge but i am going back out shortly. this engine is coming out today!!

Michael T

While the engine is out take a look at your oil pan. If it has never been replaced I'd put a new gasket and pan on!

duane.mosley

well, i couldn't seem to get it to come out without taking off the alternator and fuel pump. i'm ok with that though, i'd rather spend a few extra minutes than force it and break something. not too mention, my help didn't show so i had to do it solo.

Michael T

Excellent, you did a fantastic job - love that lift - great pic of a lift done right! Pretty cool to see that engine hanging here!

duane.mosley

Michael T said:

Excellent, you did a fantastic job - love that lift - great pic of a lift done right! Pretty cool to see that engine hanging here!

thanks MIchael. i try and do things right the first time! sure would hate to see 1000 lbs come crashing down through my gel coat!! here is a pick
 of the lift with the boat out of the way. i used the contractors level to make sure everything was level before setting the beam.

duane.mosley

time to clean up the mess the previous owner left me!

randy56

I admire your work ethic, Its labor day, Take a break and have a cold one this afternoon.

Michael T

@duane.mosley....heck of a way to get at your engine bay. While the engine was out I might clean and paint the bilge with special bilge polyurethane and install a new bilge pump. I'd check all my grounds, connections, seacocks etc. too. *****I would consider performing an engine alignment check after putting the new engine in to check engine-drive alignment.

[Deleted User]

Interesting, mine is same year and model, but my batteries are mounted turned 90 degrees from yours, long side aligned with the center line of the boat.

Andy

duane.mosley

Michael T said:

@duane.mosley....heck of a way to get at your engine bay. While the engine was out I might clean and paint the bilge with special bilge polyurethane and install a new bilge pump. I'd check all my grounds, connections, seacocks etc. too. *****I would consider performing an engine alignment check after putting the new engine in to check engine-drive alignment.

i am pulling EVERYTHING out!! new bilge pump, new auto switch, new hose to bilge pump, new depth/gauge, rework all grounds on the sea cocks, check sea cocks. i know for a fact that the exterior grill on one of them is broke. i will be replacing the gimbal bearing and bellows while everything is apart and aligning everything once i am done. i just did a gimbal bearing for a friend and i made him buy me the tools to do it right for helping him do the job.  i am going to pull the holding tank and do a thorough cleaning on that and if the admiral isn't happy, she can buy a new one! lol i am a clean freak so i will be doing some hard core cleaning of the bilge while i'm there. i didn't not think about repainting the bilge but i just so happen to do automotive paint for a living so that is something i will check into.

Alswagg said:

Good job.  Why did you unbolt the motor mount from the block?   The mounts are simply lagged down to the stringer.   It will be much easier to reinstall with the mounts bolted to the block.  Your hoist looks nice.  

thanks AL. i wanted to make sure the hoist was solid. seriously thinking now about building me a carport to keep the boat covered through the year and incorporating that beam into the build so that i can keep it there permanently. don't really know why on the motor mounts.  the person i learned from,when it comes to working on boats,  always left the bolts in the stingers alone. i will say that after looking at everything, i will be pulling them and replacing them and mounting them to the block before install for sure! the main bolt was rusted pretty good and i was out of pb blaster so i did it the HARD way! lol while leaving the mount in place, i actually broke the wire plug going to the sensor at the bottom of the timing cover, pulled the wires right out of the plug so i will have to check the schematics and hope i get it back correctly.  

andyd said:

Interesting, mine is same year and model, but my batteries are mounted turned 90 degrees from yours, long side aligned with the center line of the boat.

Andy

are your batteries still mounted next to the water tank? i only had two 24 series batteries when i bought the boat and they used to run front to back next to the tank.  i pulled the trays and turned them sideways. i now have a 24 starting battery and two 31 series in parallel for my house bank. 

duane.mosley

and the winner is...........spun #1 rod bearing, started to wipe #2. the crank is toast so time for a brand new rotating assembly. here is a picture of the bearing overlapping itself.

Michael T

@duane.mosley I used to own a painting company. I have been out of the business for years now but I helped a friend re-paint his bilge. I offered to spray it for him but he didn't want to take the time to tape-off everything. I got him some polyurethane bilge paint (bright white) from Interlux and he brushed it on. It was amazing. He did two coats. That was 3 years ago. He keeps it clean (nothing ocd - but clean) and it looks brand new. He went solid white so he could find nuts and screws he'd drop in there and not be able to find with the factory splatter coat LOL.

P.S. we wiped it down with acetone first, with a double grounded fan to get rid of harmful and explosive vapors!

youstolemybeer

4 mount bolts, bellows, fuel line and electric is all that is holding that engine in place? Ive pulled car engines but never boat engines and was wondering how difficult it is. WOW good job.
in regards to the crank, not my monkey not my circus, I would tear the whole engine down and complete rebuild, at the very least rering it. Have the block checked out, look at the crank alignment and have  the crank journals align bored. been there done that. The rod bearing going bad can cause the crank to wiggle in its bearings. knocking the bearings bad.

duane.mosley

youstolemybeer said:

4 mount bolts, bellows, fuel line and electric is all that is holding that engine in place? Ive pulled car engines but never boat engines and was wondering how difficult it is. WOW good job.
in regards to the crank, not my monkey not my circus, I would tear the whole engine down and complete rebuild, at the very least rering it. Have the block checked out, look at the crank alignment and have  the crank journals align bored. been there done that. The rod bearing going bad can cause the crank to wiggle in its bearings. knocking the bearings bad.

thanks. i have done a few  of both and the boat is far more easier! i will be replacing EVERYTHING in this engine! i am leaning more towards doing it myself as well. you never truly know what your going to get with a reman and it's a heck of lot cheaper!

Michael T

@duane.mosley. I like your style and unless you have Al's shop or a very few others doing the work, I believe you are correct that doing it yourself is preferable!

duane.mosley

Michael T said:

@duane.mosley. I like your style and unless you have Al's shop or a very few others doing the work, I believe you are correct that doing it yourself is preferable!

thanks MIchael. only thing i'm concerned with now is programming the ECM. i want to step up to the 6.2 but i also want to get optimal performance

212rowboat

duane.mosley said:

Michael T said:

@duane.mosley. I like your style and unless you have Al's shop or a very few others doing the work, I believe you are correct that doing it yourself is preferable!

thanks MIchael. only thing i'm concerned with now is programming the ECM. i want to step up to the 6.2 but i also want to get optimal performance

check this

BellevilleMXZ

212rowboat said:

duane.mosley said:

Michael T said:

@duane.mosley. I like your style and unless you have Al's shop or a very few others doing the work, I believe you are correct that doing it yourself is preferable!

thanks MIchael. only thing i'm concerned with now is programming the ECM. i want to step up to the 6.2 but i also want to get optimal performance

check this

Huh never thought of them

duane.mosley

will have to call them next week, there site only talks about mercury, not volvo penta

BellevilleMXZ

https://www.obd2allinone.com/mefituning.asp

Sure looks like these guys can change the cal......they list Volvo......not a bad price either. Its just MEFI 4, i'll bet almost identical to Merc 

duane.mosley

so i got my holding tank and water tank out today to start cleaning my bilge. i'm beginning to think this boat has been under water. both tanks had coat of dirt/sand under each tank. i took my pressure washer to it and got a lot of it cleaned up, i am going to get in and do some scrubbing by hand. the more i am looking at it, i might consider painting. just a matter of how clean i want it, and how much time i want to spend cleaning. the machine shop that has my engine is about 3 weeks out so i've got that long to get it done. i ordered my new bilge pump and float switch tonight so i have that covered.
 

BellevilleMXZ

Looks good.....Probably just from lack of care before. Still going 383?

duane.mosley

BellevilleMXZ said:

Looks good.....Probably just from lack of care before. Still going 383?

it's getting there, thanks.   yes i am still leaning towards the stroker.

randy56

Best time to clean, I did the same this spring, also give ya a chance to look around at the rest of things. You can't normal see or touch. My white blower hose was getting brittle, And replaced it.
Looks good.