plumbing fittings/ FLAIR IT fittings

youstolemybeer

Hey all, a while ago my water heater tube/pipes suffered a squish. Why I was thinking I could stand on them is beyond me. Anyway, the tubes pulled out of the fittings going into the water heater. THe water heater fittings are intact, but the hoses are disconnected. I have the replacement tube/hose. I have the old fittings (think plastic compression fitting). My question is, Since the hose/tube is almost the same size as the fittings, do I just gently heat the tube with a heat gun and shove it on the fitting? 
I have googled Flair it fittings and all the vids show that this is the way to do it. I also googled how to change the rear struts on a honda, the vids didnt show that you will also have bolts break and bolts corroded in bushings so you have to change them as well. So Im thinking ask people who have really done it regarding the fittings
Thanks
Steve

raybo3

Steve I would assume that the fitting has a "lock" nut on it. I would take the fitting apart put the "nut" on it put the hose into the fitting then tighten the nut. Some fittings have compression ferrules in them that you have to put on the tube after you slide the lock nut on them. A picture would really help.

MDboater

I did not use any heat when installing flare it fittings with new pex. It is a snug fit. I believe it was half inch pex that I used. Just make sure the nut is on the tubing first. You may not be able to remove and/or reinstall the nut after the pex has been used because it deforms when going over the flare.

randy56

@youstolemybeer, Its hard not to stand on the water lines fighting for position to work on something. If your fittings look like this ( mine are this type) they are push fit. just shove them back in.

raybo3

@randy56 hummmm mine are different...

tniggel

You can just push the fittings on then tighten the nut.  Take a little wiggling, but goes on no problem.  I hand tighten and then snug the rest of the way with a pair of channel locks. Never had a leak. I put a pressurized water system in last year with a Flair it T, also a few years ago I put a hot water tank bypass in with the 3 way valve.  You cut the lines going into and out of the hot water tank and install 2 of the 3 way valves with a piece of 1/2" pex b/w them.

youstolemybeer

the connector pictured above is what im working with.   Not the valve but the knurled connector.  Is there supposed to be a ferrule on the tube or is it just the twist knob
Thanks
Steve

Liberty44140

Beer can you post a pic of what your dealing with? The flair it's are pretty simple to use, just put the tube on the male end and then tighten down outer nut. If there are any cracks at all in any of the fittings and nut it will leak. Sounds like your problem is more with the water heater attachments than the flair it's. 

MDboater

The Flare-it fitting does not use a separate ferrule (a piece that slides over the outer surface of the tube) like other compression fittings.  Instead, the Flare-it fitting has a flare built into the fitting that mates with the inner surface of the tube.  You simply slide to tube over the flare and the nut compresses the tube against the flare.  

tniggel

Liberty44140

MD, a flair it does have a separate outer nut that goes over the tube like the pic above. 

MDboater

Liberty44140 said:

MD, a flair it does have a separate outer nut that goes over the tube like the pic above. 

Yes,  that's what I said.  It has a nut that compresses the tube but not a ferrule.

youstolemybeer

ok so I now have the water heater connected. One in, one out.   and now I  have no water coming out of the faucets. Is there a specific way the water lines should be connected or is it just cold water from pump to the heater and then heater to line?
Also, after I connected the heater, when the pump was running The engine made a bubbling noise