Engine hatch opened partway, then it quit and won't do anything but click

LaRea

(2007 Rinker 370)  I got my engine hatch open about 8", then I stopped to check something.  When I tried to open it the rest of the way, all that happened was a very faint click and the hatch would not move.  Any suggestions?

For those first few seconds while the hatch was moving, everything seemed 100% fine with normal speed and no unusual sounds.  After it quit, it would not move up or down no matter what I did.  Every time I pressed the button up or down, I'd hear a click from the engine room (or maybe the battery panel, hard to tell).  

Here's what I tried, without success:
* Checked all breakers and switches
* Checked voltage (13+ volts on shore power with battery charger on)
* Propped the hatch open to unload the actuator
* Pressed the button a million more times hoping it would work (Denied!)

What do you think -- dead actuator?  

frenchship

Hi ,
here is the schematic for the actuator on my 300 2007, maybe that could help.....

Handymans342

Did you try the emergency terminals with jumper cables

LaRea

Thanks @frenchship - looks like it would almost have to be a failed solenoid.  

I'll use the time-tested method to revive a balky solenoide:  tap it with the handle of a screwdriver.  And then I'll order a couple new solenoids.  

LaRea

I didn't try the emergency posts ... however, it does look like the posts would bypass the solenoids.  

Handymans342

Yes but I dont know if you can reach the posts with your cables

LaRea

Yeah, I can't get my car close enough, and can't get into the engine room.  

Black_Diamond

It is a DC motor. The switch just reverses polarity to raise/lower. You can cross the wires at the switch, sounds like the actuator failed though. 

Stodge

Would one of those portable jump boxes have enough juice to open the hatch?  Thought about investing in one for that.

Dream_Inn

Stodge said:

Would one of those portable jump boxes have enough juice to open the hatch?  Thought about investing in one for that.

That's what I used to use on my 310 every winter.

Mike_G

I use an old 2/6 amp battery charger set to 6 amps to open and close mine when the batteries are disconnected.

rasbury

I bought a jumper box that will almost fit in my back pocket....40 bucks on amazon with 10.00 same day delivery....did not think it would work but my larger one died. I used it today to jump off two vans, v8 motors that batteries were dead for like a year. Both fired right up and did not put a dent in the charge level- I was amazed!

rasbury

Not sure how your boat is set up with the table but you might have to take out the table and the mount and get access to the pin to release the pole that attaches to the hatch. Then you can open it and see what it going on. I would think unlikely that the motor is worn but the switch as Black has stated...unless something got in there and chewed on a wire or something.....

LaRea

It was open far enough to reach the pin, but lifting the hatch is a 2-man operation for sure.  I'm hoping my mechanic resolved it.  (I've been out of town since it happened.)

rasbury

ah, my 270 I can handle but can imagine yours is a little more to it!

LaRea

Just to close out this discussion -- the problem was not the relays.  Apparently, the electrical connector at the actuator had a little corrosion.  I unplugged it to check the voltage with a multi-meter, and when I plugged it back in, the actuator worked just fine.  

I had read in other threads that the actuator is sensitive to low voltage.  Now I've seen it first-hand.  I'm going to clean up the connector with WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner, and hopefully be done with it.

Liberty44140

Good stuff LR. Why not just do away with the connector and hard wire it?

LaRea

I might consider that if it keeps acting up, but I bet it won't.  The corrosion is barely visible.

LaRea

A couple other notes:  Because the issue was with the connector, a jump-box on the bypass posts did not work.  Also, I confirmed that on my boat, the bypass posts will only raise the hatch -- not lower it.

jme097

Same way it is on my 2007 280 @LaRea. Will only raise the hatch and not lower it

Handymans342

My posts will work it both ways

raybo3

jme097 said:

Same way it is on my 2007 280 @LaRea. Will only raise the hatch and not lower it

@ jme.... You do realize that you have to change polarity on the posts to make it go down????

Dream_Inn

raybo3 said:

jme097 said:

Same way it is on my 2007 280 @LaRea. Will only raise the hatch and not lower it

@ jme.... You do realize that you have to change polarity on the posts to make it go down????

I remember long ago (on RBO) discussing this and some years of boats were done that the post will only raise the hatch.

Liberty44140

Both ways here 

craigswardmtb

Good to know larea. My actuator started occasionally clicking half way through last season. No other change aside from the click. I pumped some grease into it with no affect. I wonder if my actuator is on its way out. 

Black_Diamond

DC motor: reverse polarity and the motor reverses.