Introduction and Seeking Information

Willhound

Hello All
Please allow me to introduce myself, and perhaps get some assistance with some questions I have. Been lurking for a few weeks now, and finally signed up since we are more than half way through the process of becoming Rinker owners.
The "Admiral" and I have been avid day boaters and fishing partners for many years now, but mostly on small lakes in Northern Ontario in various outboard driven craft. For the last 8 years we have resided near Lake Simcoe, Ontario and after spending a season berthed at a local marina we of course caught a severe case of "footitis".
As a result, we have a pending offer on a 2000 Rinker FV270. Boat looks to be in excellent condition for the year and we are excited. But being a realist, and cautious by nature, I don't take much at face value. Broker is reporting under 250 hours on the block, but as there is no hour meter installed, I'm taking that at face value. Block does look very clean, almost too clean for the year. So either we're really lucky in finding a low-hour, well maintained boat, or......

We have had a survey done by a well known local surveyor. The major reason I chose this particular surveyor is that he likes/allows the prospective owner to be present throughout the survey. That way you get to see any little issues first-hand, discuss potential fixes and I did learn a lot about how some of the various on-board systems work.
But...I discovered afterwards that the surveyor is Very familiar and friendly with the broker. Now, it could be I'm just suspicious by nature, and being a relatively small area with only a handful of surveyors available, I suppose it would be inevitable that they would get to know each other over the years.
So....I'm trying to do a bit of background research myself.
Boat is equipped with a 5.7L EFI with Bravo 3 drive.
I haven't yet seen the preliminary survey report, so the following is from my recollection of the survey.

1) Surveyor read the engine block number off as 638731. While trying various on-line sources to look up this serial number I've discovered that at very least it's missing a digit, and should likely also have a block code attached?
Does it look reasonably like the proper block for the year/model? I did take a look at the top of the intake cover, but the spaces are blank. Cover may have been changed, or ink faded?

2) As above, the drive serial number as listed on the sale agreement is CL742175. Look bonafide?
I do have the hull number. Would Rinker be willing to provide me with this information, and best way to contact?

3) There is some corrosion showing and mild pitting on the out drive. Dealer/broker is offering to clean it up, re-prime with zinc primer and re-paint. My understanding is that a Mercathode system should have been installed, but the surveyor didn't make mention of it, and I have to admit that I didn't crawl into the engine compartment to look myself.
Any ideas on where it might be located on this particular model?  If it's not there, is it a reasonable tip-off that perhaps the blocks been changed?
If it is missing, any idea on potential cost to have a new one installed? I'd hit the broker up for it, if it was supposed to be there.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to be able to report back that I'm just a little nervous with the investment, and in the end, we have a great boat.

Thanks

Willhound

wm61356

@willhound, Welcome to the forum. You will find it to be a great source of information on Rinker boats. I'm sure others will chime in on your questions as the day progresses. It's like family here...everyone helps out whenever they can.

I've owned 3 Rinker boats so far, but admittedly never a 270. I do have a couple of suggestions in response to your inquiries.

Engine hours- It has been my experience that the cleanliness of a boat gasoline engine is not a good indicator of it's use. Boat engines operate in a relatively dirt and dust free environment and unless severely neglected, typically remain clean (unlike car engines). I've seen inboard boat engines with 1000 hours on them that have never been cleaned, yet still look very new. You don't have to accept the brokers word for the number of hours on an EFI engine. In most cases the engine controller stores the operating time for the engine. This data can be obtained by having a technician connect a scan tool to the engine controller which will enable you to read the accumulated run time for the engine. Unless the engine controller has been replaced at some point (unlikely) this is a reliable indication of engine run time.

Drive Serial Number - that number looks short to me. Perhaps some digits are missing? there are others here that will chime in I'm sure.

Bravo 3 Corrosion - early B3s were especially prone to corrosion issues, especially those that were kept in the water all season long. If you have a B3 without Mercathode, I would strongly suggest you install one. It could be a negotiating point if you decide to purchase the boat. Additionally, your surveyor should have taken note of the condition of the sacrificial anodes on the drive. They are also critical in keeping drive corrosion at a minimum. If they are coated with marine growth or have reduced in size significantly they should be cleaned or replaced. This is also something you can negotiate with the seller, or, they are easy to replace, so you could always do it yourself if you want to save installation cost. 

Lastly, if you have doubts as to the mechanical condition of the drive and engine you may want to consider paying a reputable marine technician to perform a mechanical inspection of both. They can perform a compression check on the engine as well as remove  the drive to check the condition of the u-joints, gimbal bearing, various rubber bellows, shift cables, drive alignment etc. The can also take a sample of the drive oil to check for water intrusion, and metal particles that would indicate excessive wear. when compared to the cost of repair some of the things I've mentioned, a mechanical inspection could be money well spent.

Good luck and if you buy the boat, post some pictures so we can see her. There's nothing better that getting a new boat.

Willhound

Thanks for that wm61356. All good points. Sounds like another trip to the dealer is in order. Perhaps I'll wait until I see the draft copy of the survey in case I'm misinterpreting anything. For a start, after some more web searching, it appears that the Bravo3 serial number of CL742175 should be OL742175 or even OD. That would match some of the numbers I've been able to find for a drive in that era.
I have asked for a compression check and written report. And also a copy of the scan showing current hours etc. Dealer says they should have one on file.
I may be a fool for trusting the dealer to provide this info, but I figure if I have something in writing they aren't going to want to fudge it. Bit of a delicate situation as they are also offering a decent value on my trade, so a bit of give and take on both sides going on.
I'm reading that the mounting location for the Mercathode unit on that engine may be up under near the drive oil reservoir bottle. Don't recall the surveyor looking for it there, he seemed to be concentrating in the area of the batteries and rear transom. If none, I see a retail price of around $300 so not a big deal, but I agree there should be one. Anodes aren't in too bad a shape, and no paint on them but I'll likely have them changed. Deal is still subject to sea trial, which in this area won't be until mid-April at earliest, so still some time to get things sorted out.

Willhound

Some good news. And kudos to the awesome folks at Rinker.  A quick e-mail to customer service with the hull number was able to confirm that the engine serial number is correct, was just missing the OL prefix. Unfortunately they didn't keep the sterndrive numbers, but that's not as important to me as knowing it's the original block.

randy56

@Willhound, welcome, you are on the right track doing your investigations, As a previous boat owner you already know what to look for. The 270 is a great boat, they all need maintenance. Purchased mine from the owner, no hour meter, and he had no idea of the hours. As he only owned it 3-5 months. Your boat dealer if any good, will have the scan tool. I ended up taking mine to the dealer and had them scan it for peace  of mind. By the way 250 hours sounds very low. Here is a copy of mine so you will know what it looks like. 

Liberty44140

Would be worth it to have someone plug in to the motor to verify hours and any faults/issues. Our local guy charged around $60 per engine when I bought last spring. There are lots of threads here on the good/bad on bravo 3. Mine came with some corrosion which I cleaned up last spring. Look for a thread by @Trashman it has great pics of him redoing his entirely and in there I posted progress on cleaning up mine. Your dealer should be able to pressure test the drive to make sure it's still tight. 

Trashman

@Willhound, my mercathode unit also is mounted on top of the engine near the outdrive oil resovior.  Gotta dig through a few hoses to see it for sure.  

Oh oh and welcome to the forum.  Lots of support here for sure. You can use the search feature at the top.  Odds are the question or experience you have can be found.  

LaRea

You've found the best place on the web for solid guidance on your Rinker.  

Don't lose sleep over the fact that the surveyor and broker know each other.  As you've guessed, reputable long-term professionals will all be part of the local community - especially in smaller markets.  

If a Merc outdrive after 16 seasons has only "mild pitting," count yourself lucky.  It has led a pampered life.  Any 2000+ Rinker has a Mercathode, which has apparently performed well.  Scrape, prime, paint and install fresh anodes.  

Willhound

Thanks all for the kind words. With about two months still before we can splash her for a sea trial, I have lot's of time to check out the forum and gain some more insights. Had it written into the deal that the drive will be pressure tested, cleaned/blasted/primed/painted. Spoke with them yesterday, and they acknowledged that Mercathode should be present, and if for whatever reason it's not, they will correct it. I think it's there. I do have a pic showing bonding wires on the drive, and considering the overall condition, I think it has to be there. Previous two owners were related and apparently kept it on a lift most of the time. Unfortunately, I will be the first to abuse her by leaving it in a wet slip.
I will also get an engine scan done and/or get my hands on the one that has supposedly already been done at the dealer. My first project will likely be the installation of a Smart Craft SC-1000 to act as an hour meter and info source.
Anyone have one installed, and any ideas on what type of information would be supplied to the unit for that era engine?

randy56

After having mine scanned, i purchased a simple hour meter $35.00 mounted it behind engine. with angle bracket. only thing is, you have to raise engine hatch to see it. But sometimes I think that's good so you get a look at things from time to time. 
Sounds like the previous owners took good care of it. 

Cableguy Greg

Before you purchase that SmartCraft gauge, make sure your engine is compatible with it. I would hate to see you shell out the $$$ for the gauge and it not work. As far as keeping it in the water, make sure you have it bottom painted, if it already isn't. That helps a lot.

DazeOff

Make sure they check the hull, cockpit, transom and deck for moisture and soft spots. 

Willhound

DazeOff said:

Make sure they check the hull, cockpit, transom and deck for moisture and soft spots. 

I was present for the survey and also received the preliminary survey report last night. Everything checked out as above average for the year, and dry, dry, dry.

randy56

did ya wright the check yet?

Willhound

Nope! (well, a refundable deposit, based on final sea trial.)
The day we splash her I'll have a certified cheque in my pocket. If things go well, it'll be going right into her new slip at the marina.
Randy56, I'm curious about the hour meter you mentioned. Have you got a pic or link to a supplier? I've taken a quick look at a few marine suppliers and see "induction" hour meters for mounting in the engine compartment. Makes me think they read the pulses off the distributor or coil? I like that idea vs. something just powered by a key that isn't measuring actual running time. I'd also be curious to find out if any of them have a "pre-set" where after a scan I can input real hours so the cumulative total is correct. Could just right it down someplace I suppose.

randy56

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Sierra-Small-Engine-Hour-Meter&i=752569
Yes it just wraps around wire.
I don't think you can add hours to it, but you will have the scan sheet.

Cableguy Greg

If you got an analog gauge, you could run it off a battery to catch it up to the engine hours. Just make sure you pay attention to it once it is close to the actual hours. You wouldn't want to go over.

Stodge

Cableguy Greg said:

Before you purchase that SmartCraft gauge, make sure your engine is compatible with it. I would hate to see you shell out the $$$ for the gauge and it not work. As far as keeping it in the water, make sure you have it bottom painted, if it already isn't. That helps a lot.

As I recall, Smartcraft was generally available on 2002 and newer models.  

Cableguy Greg

Stodge said:

Cableguy Greg said:

Before you purchase that SmartCraft gauge, make sure your engine is compatible with it. I would hate to see you shell out the $$$ for the gauge and it not work. As far as keeping it in the water, make sure you have it bottom painted, if it already isn't. That helps a lot.

As I recall, Smartcraft was generally available on 2002 and newer models.  

You are correct. The OP stated the boat was a model year 2000, so I would be concerned that the engine might not have smartcraft on it.

Willhound

Thanks again everyone for the info and suggestions. Sounds like my 2000 might not be Smartcraft enabled. After boat purchase and a bunch of gear I'll need to pick up to outfit her, it looks like a $30 Sierra part might be the prudent way to go for now anyway.