Green Gunk on Mercathode ?

Willhound

Took this pic of the Mercathode anode on the FV270 BIII drive I take possession of shortly. Anything to be worried about? Don't like the look of the green gunk and the way the cover over the wire looks bulged?

Cableguy Greg

That is electrical corrosion. Kind of like what you might see on a car battery. I would consider replacing the anode.

Willhound

Thanks Cableguy Greg. Figured that. Wondering what caused it. Did the corrosion push the cover away, or did the cover fail, causing the corrosion? Probably no way to tell I guess. Chicken or the egg.
The boat sat inside a showroom all winter with the batteries left hooked up. Wonder if that cooked it?
Found a few references on the Web regarding changing out the anode. Sounds like feeding the wires through properly can be a real bear. 

(EDIT) - actually, while doing some more searching, I came across your excellent thread and pics of your unit. https://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/6534/mercathode

Yikes! It looked worse than mine does. I have discussed it with the broker/dealer a couple of times. Their opinion seems to be that they believe it to be working. Having read all the posts I can find regarding dry testing these units, it doesn't look like there's a proper way to test dry, other than continuity.
I'm seriously thinking of approaching the dealer and asking that it be changed out, if even for my own peace of mind, and even if it has to be on a "shared cost" basis. Overall they've been really decent, changing out and/or repairing any necessary items before delivery, and even a few things that are simple "wear and tear" because they want me to be happy. So I'm thinking that since the boat is already in their shop anyway, maybe just get them to change it before it hits the water, even if I have to cough up a share.
I guess I could take a hard line and insist it be changed, but I'm pretty fair minded, and without evidence that it's not working, I don't see a need to be a **** about it.
Opinions?

Cableguy Greg

IMO, I would want it changed. If anything, for peace of mind. With all of the corrosion issues with the B3 drives, if that isn't working, it will do more harm than good. As you can see from my other thread, I am going to double my mercathode and change the anode on the transom assembly. I would rather have extra protection than no protection at all.

Willhound

Thanks Greg. I'm thinking the same way. Haven't found an on-line retailer in Canada for a price, but any of the US sites I've seen show a price of around $150 for both controller and anode, so roughly $200 CDN. For that kind of $$ and if install costs aren't horrendous, I'll probably just tell them to do it, if only for peace of mind. It will likely be more cost effective to buy the whole kit, not just the anode. I'll have the shop do the anode since it needs to be done out of the water. I can do the controller myself later to save cost, and maybe even just double them up in parallel.

Cableguy Greg

I would just do the anode. The controller is the easiest part to change and can be done in the water. Chances are, the controller is working.

Willhound

Thanks Greg
I was just thinking that if the price for the whole kit was not a big difference taking into account shipping etc I'd just get the whole thing and either run two controllers parallel or have it as a spare. Waiting for response from dealer tomorrow morning. 

Cableguy Greg

@Willhound, did you get your mercathode anode changed? I just did mine. It is a PITA!!!

Willhound

After some back and forth, mechanic insists it's OK, and that's with me offering to pay to have it changed. They told me to save my $$ and if I feel I want it changed in the fall, do it then. So we agreed to keep an eye on it and test it once in the water. Guess I'll see tomorrow after we launch. 

Cableguy Greg

The wires on mine were green with corrosion. My mechanic was surprised that it was still working, or if it was working. Hopefully this new one helps me out. I will be testing once she is wet.

Willhound

@Cableguy Greg this may be over simplifying things, but would not pulling the two wires from the controller and doing a simple continuity test at least show if the circuit is intact? I  realize that there may be issues with resistance from a bad conection causing poor operational parameters, but at least a start to show if just totally dead or not?