Engine hatch

terrypage

Any advice, Today pressed the hatch button to raise to check engine etc, but no result, no indication of noise from lift motor, How do I open hatch, any help much appreciated.

reneechris14

Two big fellas pull hatch 2" up then pull the pin on top of the cylinder.or jump with the 2 pins in the battery switch hatch.breaker is under the helm.

terrypage

Thank you ' reneechris' I'll give it a go tomorrow. It would have to happen on the only sunny week we've had in a month

LaRea

The other way to reach the pin at the top of the cylinder (maybe safer) is remove the table base and reach in through the opening.  Once you pull the pin to disconnect the actuator, you can manually raise the hatch.  Just be careful.  

J3ff

you'll have to cut a hole in the sound/heat shield if it's there. 

reneechris14

Yes be careful the hatch is very heavy.if you open it manually tie it off.no Gillatine

LaRea

I'm not sure about the 270, but if the hatch on a 342 or 360/370 fell, it would sever any body part that happened to be in the way.  Three-man lift, if not four, and remove everything heavy from the transom locker.

terrypage

Thanks for the advice everyone. What a pain ugh!

andyd

@terrypage Sorry to hear this happened. I'm seriously considering installing a flush mounted deck hatch for accessing the engine fresh water flush fitting and checking fluids. Anything to cut down on ram cycles and avoid lifting up this huge heavy monster for a quick engine check. Something like this maybe?
https://www.starmarinedepot.com/bomar-molded-inspection-hatch-white-14-x-31.html

Andy

rinker270nb

Before herniating a disc, might want to try a battery or jumpkit to the studs located at the battery power switch. Could be a misconnection. Your battery switch isn't set to "off" is it?

LaRea

Also try cleaning the electrical contacts in the connector at the base of the actuator. That worked for me this spring.

Black_Diamond

Even a cheapo actuator correctly sized should be good for 10k cycles. 
Things that kill an actuator:
Running it to the end of stroke repeatedly (up or down)
Incorrect mounting
Binding at the mounting points
Running at low voltage
Water intruding the motor/gearset/ram
Not greasing the gear drive (if applicable)


In reality, on a hatch lift it is better to mount with the motor at the top.  Keeps water out. 

MargaritaGirl342

Just purchased our 2003 342 and have experienced a slow, balky hatch lifter. I hooked up a new jump box to the pins above the battery switches and it lifts very quickly. So, I'm checking the house batteries and alternator this week.  Either way, keeping a small jump box on board seems like a good idea. 

Black_Diamond

Note it has a grease fitting at the bottom too. 

raybo3

My hatch was making a "bumping" sound and it would go up and down slow. Sprayed a little (and I mean a very little) WD-40 on the hinges and works great now.

terrypage

I'm hoping my mech son will help to figure out the problem this weekend. I want to take the panel off and check the switch I have a jump starter kit if necessary, anyway I'll know soon

Ian

Mine decided not to lift on Sunday afternoon - after it worked in the morning. It runs, looks like it's spun the thread out again like it did a couple of seasons ago. I'll have a few guys help me pull back the hatch this weekend and thread it back in.

J3ff

raybo3 said:

My hatch was making a "bumping" sound and it would go up and down slow. Sprayed a little (and I mean a very little) WD-40 on the hinges and works great now.

adding this to my list, hopefully this is the issue with mine, also going to grease the motor