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192 vs 212
jminz
Member Posts: 21 ✭✭
I currently have a 2005 captiva 192. There is a locally listed 2005 captiva 212 in excellent condition. I really love the layout of my 192, but would really like a couple more feet. If I could get out of my 192 and into the 212 for around 4 grand, would it be worth it?
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Mark
2019 MTX20 Extreme
the 5.0 is fine, even with water sports- just prop accordingly.
right now I'm torn- repowering again- and can't decide if i want a brand new mercruiser built 300hp catalyst engine, or if i should just build another.... when it's all said and done, the new engine will cost around $10k........... that ought to tell you something, that I'm not interested in tossing the platform just because of an engine, and that I'm willing to drop that kind of cash in a 2005 boat.
mine was original with a 4.3.... propped right it was marginal performance. it topped at a touch over 40- no bueno. i'm not a speed freak, but i do believe being agile and that being able to sprint faster than most boats is actually far safer than a slower boat.
so... i sealed the motor mount holes and tapped four more forward, and dropped in a pretty haphazardly built 305 (bored to 314, sausage cam, 58cc bowls, port matched- nothing crazy, but enough to sniff likely 250~270ish w/o much problem through a 650cfm carb and HEI ignition, it had nice low end)... that boat came ALIVE. it was now sniffing 60mph and the five blade prop would hold plane at 2400rpm and around 20mph iirc. i'd have to go back and look at notes for specifics. it was a bit of overkill.
the 305 is enough for the 212.
MPI or carb?
MPI spreads the love much better than TBI or a carb... if it's a carb or TBI, get a compression and leak down on at least the corners- cylinders one, two, seven, and eight. all eight would be better- but carbs and TBI often lean those cylinders out and that will show on the test... observe the business end of the plugs while doing to- compare them to a chart to tell you how and what that engine is doing.
pull the PCV valve out and shake it- it should rattle... if it doesn't and it isn't obviously aged, sticky blow-by will make the ball stuck- evidence of worn rings.
bend the plug wires over themselves in a few spots- namely the coil wire as it sees exactly eight times the spark the others do- you're looking for cracks. it means not a lot by itself- but if they are obviously new it doesn't make a lot of sense why they're there if it's being sold, and if they're cracked all to pieces it demonstrates maintenance was lacking. pull the dizzy cap and look at the rotor button too- excessive wear, like- to a nub- indicates maintenance wasn't a high priority to the owner... brand new, gotta wonder why, moderate wear or signs of use within reasonable tolerance, and it's likely okay.
look at bolt heads on the intake manifold and where ever you can see any bolt head on the engine for that matter. most these engines are hit with a stout epoxy before being planted- most people who have needed to turn those bolts (internal repairs) don't repaint them. it's a quick and dirty way to tell, and good place to start asking questions.
observe the venting hoses and listen to the blower. shoddy vent hoses indicates lack of owners attention to detail about something pretty important.
look closely at the gear lube reservoir. these things are notorious for gumming up in the bottom- if it is, don't think less of the owner, it happens... absolutely clean? wonder why- if it's absolutely clean, look at the lower end on the drive to see if the drain paint is disturbed- as in recently- and pop that thing out- sniff the gear oil and rub it between your fingers. it may look clear (as clear as gear oil can get) but still have water intrusion... rub it between your fingers- if there is any evidence of off color or whitish/grayish after doing so, that's a good indicator of water intrusion somebody drained/filled trying to hide.
spin the prop by hand- feel for any catches. don't worry about what appears to be wobbly by observing the outside of the hub at the exhausts tip, but stare at the union- where the prop hub enters the lower housing- make sure that gap is uniform while that prop spins- otherwise you could be having a bent shaft.
shift the gears forward, neutral, and reverse slowly and pausing only momentarily when you feel the gear 'seat'. make sure that 'seat' is in the same spot every time- not a half inch this way or that....
the seats are clipped in. pull them off the clips and determine if there holding any water. the ski locker ought to have a clean bottom- sand, debris and such shows the thing doesn't drain that well.
If i think of anything else i'll update.