rinker 2006 "300 cruiser" Acculift Boat Hatch

wielezynski

Does anyone know if i can replace this part with a lenco model or other brand?
Mine make a crazy load noise when opening the hatch or closing and sometimes blows the breaker....
Its time for a new or used one..
Thanks

Cableguy Greg

Have you greased it lately? There should be a zerk fitting on it.

wielezynski

Thanks for the resonse, I only prayed some wd40 and other grease on the extanded shaft, i have no idea if it has a zerk fiting but ill check
that cracking sound has being happening for 2 - 3 years now

Black_Diamond

That is a bad noise. Beyond grease. 

You need the stroke length, speed (inches/min) and rated load to interchange. Should be on the motor label. Prob 500 or 1,000 lbs

BTW: lubing the shaft tube really does nothing. 

Warner Linear has solutions and will draw far less current too. Can get limit switches on them too. 

http://warnerlinear.com/

davidbrooks

At one point i was looking to replace mine.  Now it has fallen lower on the list.  But here is a link to a site i was researching and was most interested in.  https://www.firgelliauto.com/products/misc-items $259.  When you look just make sure that A) it is safe for a marine engine compartment and then that it can handle the weight and length you need.  There were a couple of statements though that caused me to pause for a min.  One on the website for this actuator said that "Be aware that due to the drive gearing method, this actuator will back drive under higher loads with no power applied to the actuator. using a gas spring of the correct rating will alleviate the back drive."

Black_Diamond

A QUALITY linear actuator will have a brake/anti-reversing clutch in it. Typically rated much higher than the load rating on the actuator. 

Ian

FYI, I got around to further inspection on the weekend and fixed mine. about 2 seasons ago it wouldn't go up and seems the piston unscrewed from the worm and I managed to get it to thread back on enough so that it lasted for 2 seasons before the same again. This time, each week after winding down - careful not to overrun - I needed the help of 2 other guys to crack the hood.

After finally getting a contact at QMI that was living and breathing (Andrew St Loius, (519) 7274255, ex 289 astlouis@qmigroup.com ) he was very helpful in providing some guidelines and the key hint to investigation. As @Black_Diamond said, dimension were needed and he sent a form out with photos to log details to send but the light came on when he mentioned where the black tube screws into the cast body. Does this puppy actually unscrew from here, I assumed it was pressed in...? Armed with appropriate tools, down I went Saturday.

I got it to thread on again and drove it up and got all measurements then I popped the actuator out easily - thank god it's pinned in - and laid it out. Lo and behold, with no exceptional force but adequate, the black tube unscrewed from the base and I was able to see easily the problem - the piston had come unscrewed from the top of the lug that travels along the worm. Threaded and tightened and put back together and installed, all is good.

@wielezynski - mine also made similar noises I am assuming that it was due to the looseness of the piston on the travelling lug because she's nice an quiet now. While BD is right in suggesting it may be more than grease, it may not be terminal either. Worth pulling apart.