yes....i have the flashing hpf ....... ac problem

trip_n

06 rinker 270 ec.=fresh water lake=temperatures in the 90s=water temp 87=last week=humidity 
yesterday==wow beautiful day low 80s=no humidity=same problems
i turn on ac .... it might work a cple cycles or just 1==then flashing hpf=messed with different settings=then back to default/factory==tried pump on/cycle==same= also it will re start after a bit
if i leave thermostat set at just 2 or 3 degrees different=might work better.=78/75
if   i drop it down happens faster=78/70
seems to have good flow coming out thru hull..sea strainer is clear 
it does get cold=heat does work
i tried backflush from thru hull a cple times
from the expansive ac room under the aft cabin==i can pretzel around and
i hear a grinding sound==not sure pump or strainer.
looks like pump has been changed out=looks like cal pump=maybe some oil on the power cord.
went under with a brush a cple times and scrubbed on the strainer scoop 
i removed intake hose maybe medium flow/using a longer phillips head i stuck through hose and immediately got a nice strong stream..re attached ===smile =happy=ahhh job well done
ran ac worked maybe a little better=...dog gone it==same problem.
not much talent here on my end..only what i can read on forum and google.
funny ..no marine ac guys on table rock=the shops say we have a guy that knows some
its a beautiful sunday 
thanks to all in advance

Handymans342

Feel the temp of the water coming out of the boat when unit is running and it should be hot

trip_n

its warm/i think===i could leave my foot under the stream
not hot like the generator

rasbury

Starting to conclude handy nigh be an a/c guy in his real life...

Handymans342

I am

Handymans342

trip_n said:

its warm/i think===i could leave my foot under the stream
not hot like the generator

Well without being there and having gauges on the unit, I can only guess that the condenser is scaled enough that the heat is not transferring to the water causing a high pressure fault. I'd be curious as to how old this unit is and how much use. In a commercial water cooled a.c. unit the water is chemically treated to prevent scale forming on the copper. The scale has to be removed with a special acid. May not be worth it

trip_n

all i can say=fresh water boat since new=grand lake ok. now on table rock.
270 hrs on motor and 70 hrs on generator=no bottom paint. as far as i know and would feel comfortable  saying...original marine airr unit...i do not know model or size....going by condition of the boat=the cabin=the head==probably used more as a day boat....or hek mighta had her plugged in and ran ac all the time
no signs of pitting,rust,corrosion,etc any where on boat ...boat is extremely clean and has good service records..just giving a accurately condition report...also i realize brand new items fail.
i know where the return is and cleaned both filters.
i am probably at the end of my =ability/capability  

Handymans342

Any AC guy can work on it. Does not have to be a marine AC guy. 

trip_n

what should i have done=tested
how do i figure out what unit i have ?
on a 270 where is all the other ac stuff====  

Handymans342

You need an AC guy to put gauges on your unit and see what the operating pressures are. There should be a sticker on the side with model numbers, etc. 

trip_n

thanks @Handymans342==will be traveling a few days=hope to tinker more towards the weekend.
any 270 owners enlighten me with shortcuts or info==thanks

Dude_Himself

On a 270 good luck putting gauges on it in the boat - it's a real tight fit. You can figure if the compressor is running, but not cooling, you're going to have to pull the unit to either find/fix the leak, or replace the compressor/unit. If the compressor isn't running it's either electrical, or out of refrigerant, but you can troubleshoot that with a voltmeter. If it's just not cooling much, then you can run muriatic acid through the condenser without pulling the unit, and if that fails, and you have good flow, well, it's coming out. 

I'd get real familiar with a voltmeter and the manual, and troubleshoot what you can before you pay a professional. I took mine to the HVAC shop - I knew it wasn't pumping. I paid $50 for the pro to hit it in the specific spot with a 10# sledge. The gauges jumped for a second, then returned to normal. Bad valves. $600 to replace the compressor, or $1600 for the unit. I found a different brand - Marin Aire (notice the spelling), for $1200. Arrived the next day and runs great - at 95° ambient air and 87° water, and high humidity, I was spitting out 45° air.

Dude_Himself

Oh, all the AC stuff is behind a panel in the mid berth. It's real fun to work on.

duane.mosley

i thought my water pump was pumping enough water over my condenser also and turns out it wasn't. go into the mid berth bilge and pull the garden hose from your water pump that supplies your a/c unit. attach a hose and run your own water supply to the condenser. . this test will at least eliminate the possibility of a bad water pump before you pay an hvac pro. my unit was empty of freon but mysteriously enough didn't have any leaks. we came to conclusion that the water pump wasn't pumping enough water to cool the condenser causing high pressure. the high pressure therefore allowed freon to leak from the schrader valves because the valves weren't designed for the high pressure. the dometic water pump is 300 bucks or more if i remember correctly. i went to the local aquarium shop and bought a pump that pumped a little more volume of water and it has worked great ever since.

Handymans342

Just remember that water going through too fast is not good also

Dude_Himself

Cause it'll spin the boat on the hook?

:-D

DanD2

Or, it can be used as a one sided bow thruster!!!!

duane.mosley

Handymans342 said:

Just remember that water going through too fast is not good also

i think i went from 250gph to 300gph and it has worked great for a couple of years now

trip_n

can someone explain the ac loop for me plz..i have googled and searched==i cant see so i dont understand==2006 270 ex=probably a small marine airr==i see the thru hull =white garden hose type coming in/up=raw water= to the strainer and into the pump on the starboard side=coming out of pump=white garden type hose=running to port===then it disappears=where ?
the larger thru hull==black hose coming up = moving towards port ==?
what size/gph is the cal pump ?
thinking of trying some rydlyme flush=
appreciate any help =thoughts=pictures

Dude_Himself

On my 2007 280 EC:

It's a 6k BTU unit, depending on age it may be 2 different types of refrigerant. 06 is probably R12.

Under the mid-berth sole: Thru Hull -> Strainer -> Pump -> AC

Behind a grate on the mid-berth hull: AC -> thru hull

Hose is 5/8" ID. Pump capacity is between 150-200 GPH.

Handymans342

Def not R12. Either 410 or 22

trip_n

whats the bigger black thr hull hose with seacock

Dude_Himself

Sorry, brain fart. It's R22, not 12 or 410. 410 started after 2009 sometime, based on folks I've talked to at Dometic.

trip_n

up date=good news for us= i hooked up a  small pump and ran the ac for about a hour..no where near the water out flow we were getting....but ac blew cool and no hpf code...then hooked up a direct fresh water hose and turned on about 1/4 way...had the out flow about the same has the cal pump...but ran for a  cple hours blowing cold and no codes...i had ordered some rydlyme from apex==great friendly quick service... so i ran about a half gallon through=called franklin electric in oklahoma city/they have acquired cal pumps=talked to tech guy extremely nice friendly helpful=my old pump was leaking oil from the power inlet=he told me it was either already gone or on its way out.  he didnt have any =i called boaters plus=good price=good service=ordered the marine cal pump 320 ms320-6=just had a great 5 night stay =had to use my blankie=
thanks for everyones help and advice

Handymans342

Same thing just happened to @randy56. His motor was running but very slow. Not enough GPMs

randy56

For someone's future use this is what it looks like installed. in the compartment under the stairs. On a 270 and what the pump looks like. The black thing coming out at 10:00 is the wire from the  AC unit. 

trip_n

yep...thats it...mine slid inside a clamp..i used a mirror and laid in the aft facing the bow ...it was easier for me than hugging the stairs ... the cord on mine was 6 ft...also my pic i had already cleaned the oil off the pump and wire...i gave my serial # to the guys at franklin and mine was out of warranty also=i believe he said the heat from the failing pump loosened the epoxy around the cord allowing to leak the oil...same place down the cord and into the hvac bilge...my whole ac unit is quieter and performing great==hope you the same @randy56...

sandeka772

Have ac problem on 2009
360 ec.  We have replaced hose from thruhull to strainer and an new strainer and anew hp switch.  All was good for ten days in the blazing Florida heat.  Today HPF agin and no water coming out.  Cleaned strainer but still hpf blinking. Ideas on what todo next?

laureniac1

I went through this for 2 years! Finally put in a new unit and end of last season! You can only throw so many parts at it.  It is tough to service the units properly even with routine maintenance because of location. I had an ac look at my 2005 270 and made the decision to replace. Mine was loud whenever it ran and like I said how many parts do you want to throw at it . 

Liberty44140

sandeka772 said:

Have ac problem on 2009
360 ec.  We have replaced hose from thruhull to strainer and an new strainer and anew hp switch.  All was good for ten days in the blazing Florida heat.  Today HPF agin and no water coming out.  Cleaned strainer but still hpf blinking. Ideas on what todo next?

HAve you made sure that the thru Hull outside the boat is clear of any debris?