@J3ff, I don't know if $1000 is reasonable but don't confuse re-built with re-manufactured. A reman is just like new. Complete parts rebuild and the cases built back up like new. A re-build with bearings, shafts etc as needed can likely be done for less than a couple grand.
AADS will take your existing case and make it as close to brand new as possible, while saving you a bunch compared to new. Best case, if you have no corrosion, it's better than new because of the better warranty.
Add in haul-out and local labor to remove/reinstall, and you're looking at a cost of 5-6 Boat Units. Compare to 8-10 BU for a new outdrive. It's a bargain.
Yeah, I would have bought a reman drive if one was available, but he didn't have one. The moral of the story: don't break your outdrive in late August.
A couple year's ago on my 270 I had a lower thrust bearing go 900 bucks with reseal. The drive was totally broke down inspected,cases wash out and put back together. With that said parts for a B3 get very expensive clutch cone and shafts 400 plus.
Maybe I shouldn't have said rebuild but "refresh. I was quoted $1800 CDN to strip the drive and redo bearings, seals, bellows and shift cable. Assuming all gears and shafts were good.
At the moment all I have is some extra vibration after putting on the 4 blades, Looking for someone to kind of take it apart, look at all the parts and see if there's a problem developing, fix the bad stuff and send it back.. 1500/2500 would be fine. 4200 is a bit too much.
@J3ff, re the vibration - I'm sure you cleaned the ss prop shaft, re lubricated it, made sure you had the correct thrust washer and all properly torqued?
Did it in the water. def have the correct thrust washer and are properly torqued. Put a bunch of grease on it, but after it went into the water all bets are off.
$4800 to rebuild (I think, gotta check the receipt) $300 shipping to/from MI $250 haul-out, storage and launch $900 to have my trusted mechanic remove/reinstall with with new bellows and anodes
Value of being back on the water this weekend for beautiful fall weather with 10 other boats from our club in Old Town Alexandria: can't put a price on it.
The only thing I would add is that if you send it to them and you don't need a full rebuild he will tell you. I went that route cause I had 500 hrs and the gears were worn out. My prices are similar as @LaRea. Paid more for haul out and less for the install but my comfort in finding someone I trust was huge. Doing work on an outdrive is not something I would want to trust to just anyone.
Just an idea @J3ff, but is the vibration always, or just when turning? Maybe just gimbal bearing? I'll admit I'm new to this, but always hope for the best case scenario.
yeah, would be surprised if that was it because I had the entire Transom mount replaced last sept. And it's when going straight forward at low speed.. when you hammer the throttle down we're nice and smooth again.
$4800 to rebuild (I think, gotta check the receipt)
The actual total was $4752 ($4295 for the rebuild service, plus $457 for parts).
The break-in is simple: no full-throttle starts, and drive gently for the first 10 hours. My goal is to get through the break-in before winterizing. I ran it for 2 hours this weekend. The only noticeable change is a slightly louder "thunk" when shifting into gear, which is normal.
When the drive failed, we were coming home from a fantastic 10-day, 458-mile cruise up the Chesapeake. We were actually within sight of home when it happened.
First, I noticed a slightly different mechanical tone that I couldn't figure out. I was listening to it for about 15 seconds trying to decide if something was wrong, and then all helI broke loose: BAM BAM BAM, engine stalled, alarms started going crazy. After checking the engine room and seeing no obvious problems, I restarted the engine ... and it sounded like somebody threw a bucket of wrenches into a concrete mixer. I'll never forget that sound -- terrible!
At that point, I figured I had blown the engine. What a relief it was to find out later that it was "only" the outdrive!
@J3ff from what I'm learning is that vibrations are the nature of the beast, if your alignment, gimbal bearing and unjoint are all ok your likely fine. Where we are we have different currents and I can feel more vibration in certain areas where I am fighting current or taking it at an odd angle. Same with list, boat is flat with no list at the dock but when I come out in to the back bay of our marina where we have odd currents I get a port list, yesterday was worse as I also had a port wind, took her out in to the lake with no current and wind on the nose or behind and she is flat and smooth with no list or tabs. Point is I'm starting to learn to not stress until there is a true consistency in things as current wind and waves have an effect. I think that it was MT that recently posted how Rinkers are built just as well as other brands but part of the cost savings is less time and money spent on vibration dampening and other little touches.
yeah, thank you for the words of assurance. I took it through 3 to 4 foot waves today for about 45 mins... the drive didn't complain at all. I have noticed the drive oil seems to drop a small amount every month. Will have to check it out over the winter, I believe this is the original 2004 outdrive, meaning it has close to 1000 hours now.
I guess that would depend on how you define better. I love the b3 for the counter rotation that means it doesn't wander in the harbor... and it just looks bad ****
Comments
A reman is just like new. Complete parts rebuild and the cases built back up like new.
A re-build with bearings, shafts etc as needed can likely be done for less than a couple grand.
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
PC BYC, Holland, MI
The special Neo-Synthetic oil blend he recommends is great stuff.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Add in haul-out and local labor to remove/reinstall, and you're looking at a cost of 5-6 Boat Units. Compare to 8-10 BU for a new outdrive. It's a bargain.
Go Steelers!!!
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
At the moment all I have is some extra vibration after putting on the 4 blades, Looking for someone to kind of take it apart, look at all the parts and see if there's a problem developing, fix the bad stuff and send it back.. 1500/2500 would be fine. 4200 is a bit too much.
$300 shipping to/from MI
$250 haul-out, storage and launch
$900 to have my trusted mechanic remove/reinstall with with new bellows and anodes
Value of being back on the water this weekend for beautiful fall weather with 10 other boats from our club in Old Town Alexandria: can't put a price on it.
Go Steelers!!!
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
The actual total was $4752 ($4295 for the rebuild service, plus $457 for parts).
The break-in is simple: no full-throttle starts, and drive gently for the first 10 hours. My goal is to get through the break-in before winterizing. I ran it for 2 hours this weekend. The only noticeable change is a slightly louder "thunk" when shifting into gear, which is normal.
When the drive failed, we were coming home from a fantastic 10-day, 458-mile cruise up the Chesapeake. We were actually within sight of home when it happened.
First, I noticed a slightly different mechanical tone that I couldn't figure out. I was listening to it for about 15 seconds trying to decide if something was wrong, and then all helI broke loose: BAM BAM BAM, engine stalled, alarms started going crazy. After checking the engine room and seeing no obvious problems, I restarted the engine ... and it sounded like somebody threw a bucket of wrenches into a concrete mixer. I'll never forget that sound -- terrible!
At that point, I figured I had blown the engine. What a relief it was to find out later that it was "only" the outdrive!
currents I get a port list, yesterday was worse as I also had a port wind, took her out in to the lake with no current and wind on the nose or behind and she is flat and smooth with no list or tabs. Point is I'm starting to learn to not stress until there is a true consistency in things as
current wind and waves have an effect. I think that it was MT that recently posted how Rinkers are built just as well as other brands but part of the cost savings is less time and money spent on vibration dampening and other little touches.